_Ryan_

call Nissco in vic: 03 9761 4743 I have seen a few going in/out, and Randy always seems to know someone selling cars lol -Ryan

^^^ best one in the thread, so clean, so simple. awesome

the flow figures... prob just go both from just jap

got tooted on poath rd in hugesdale/chadstone, think i saw S1 tailights

i wouldnt... Would an Autronic with flatshift set up work? retards timing on changes

sounds like a plan Anyone have any ideas about the cat?

BOSimporting cat flows 630CFM X-Force flows 570CFM... is 60CFM worth doubling the price?

first gear stays at 4.5psi, second is 4.5 til 4500rp, then goes to 7, same for all gears except first

previous owner of mine had two kids, mine has 6mounts all up i think. Also consider a legnum, chaser and aristo. -Ryan

yes

Fun is about all they are good for lol

if leaking, GTR BOV for stealth-ness! Yudy, take me for a spin in your car:P convince me to sell the 1600 and upgrade

search for rich and retard 4500rpm is when the factory solenoid switches to higher boost, and with the mods it MIGHT be raising boost enough to hit R&R. -Ryan

http://www.blitz.com.au/DTT.html interface it with your alarm, and they display boost. Sleeper spec.

+1 for Bilsteins. -1 for Koni's i own both

Problem with datto's Mitch?

stock turbo doesnt like 14psi. i wouldnt go past 10psi at the manifold. Screamer isnt legal. Dumps to atmo, look for a split dump or bellmouth, but not a screamer for a street car

pull the cord?

i am curious also

Apex'i panel filter, 80$ from www.accessauto.com.au access autoworks is a sponser on here, non oiled, K&N oiled type can foul the AFM. jaycar IEBC and DFA + handcontroller, ~200 for all the kits. R34 SMIC, alexcim has one going for 150, PM him an offer. i would use one over a FMIC, as it doesnt restrict air to the radiator. Full exhaust of your choice, dont forget the cat, budget 1250 all up BOV is a waste of money, causes driveability issues due to the AFM counting air going in that is going out the BOV, so runs very rich on lift off. On the firewall end of the inlet plenum is a little rubber slip over a nipple, you should be able to put some vac line on it for your boost gauge. I would personnally be doing a Transmission cooler and auto shift kit before power mods, i would do the filter and SMIC next. Then Sydneykid suspension package and some decent pads with RDA group buy rotors, Then exhaust/EBC/DFA=Tune -Ryan

E-Manage Ultimate is the way to go for an Auto, do a search. SydneyKid has many posts on the topic of why you need to use a piggyback with an auto. URAS(trent) has a great thread on EMU. -Ryan

FMIC+POD= defect in vic and possibly other states, FMIC is un-nessesary for R34's for 200rwkw. Just get an apex'i panel. great quality. Full exhaust with high-flow cat is a must Boost control, Jaycar IEBC is good value for money. or if you can afford it, blitz ID3 is known to be good. BOV is a waste of money, causes issues with AFM cars, and doesnt improve performance, when your stock once starts to leak, get one GTR unit. if on a budget again use a jaycar DFA, if you have money get an E-Manage Ultimate(EMU). If you go the DFA route, look for an Apex'i SITC second hand if you can, my theory is when going past a DFA(getting an SITC, i would just get an EMU) So costs here are: Apex'i filter: $80 Full exhaust: HKS catback from justjap for $800, GKTECH or Justjap front/dumps, ~$200 Highflow cat: PM BATMBL, think they are ~300 So max $1350 for a full exhaust Jaycar kits: IEBC $70, DFA 70, i think the hand controller was ~$50 Apex'i SITC ~250 Tune shouldn't be over 300? So the grand total Shouldnt be over $2200 if you get an SITC and allow 300 for the tune. OR under 2800 with an EMU Cheers, -Ryan

Happy Birthday

PM SydneyKid for suspension!!!!!!!!!!

how would a gt28rs compare to a highflow? a mate is selling one cheap, brand new, as he decided not to fit it.