_Ryan_

Re-manufactured sounds like a warranty item.

I'm thinking about putting the 33GTR rims and seats from my GTST onto my Stagea, They look good on stageas!

Is it possible that club members get an e-mail for deca's if they ticked the "motorsport" box under interested in on the application form? I don't know how things are set up from the admin side of things...

I more meant try their mobile numbers. nope

http://news.drive.com.au/drive/motor-news/...00119-mhm4.html

Being an Rb25 in an R32, If Nistune, will you be using an R32 ECU and dropping VCT, or using a Z32 ECU? Where in Melbourne are you? http://www.statustuning.com/ Have done Nistune for a few members.

Tried mobiles?

Pretty sure my flex are 6/5, I wouldnt go stiffer for hills, welcome to come for a spin(guessing that was your next Q with your melbourne mention). Sways are a good idea. 27f, 24r selbys would match.

try this guy http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=424479

Did your tuner give you a short list of ECU's to choose from, or recommend one more than the others that he prefers to use?

its on same day(not date)every month, its just the thread isn't always up

Why? Wouldn't you want a full package that works well? You could get a custom stupid rate set of springs made, but thrown in with nothing else done they will make the car a slow bucket of shit to drive.

those rates and higher would be too stiff for vic mountains IMO. 27/24mm swaybars with 6/5 springs would be fine for drift IMO. Have seen R32 drivers do fine without bars with soft coils in a 32, but i feel that swaybars would be worthwhile.

I tried to get to the weighbridge today but ran out of day, will try too this week for ya. Mine is full trim minus power steering, which you definitely DO NOT NEED on dirt. The feel is f**king insane. I have 17x9+30, with rally wheels/tyres, the steering will be lighter. Above listed weight loss and GTR guards and bonnet(or will you smash them? ) would have you doing well.

More photos available via e-mail, All photos available in full resolution via FTP. (Includes inner boot seams, strut towers, door hinges etc.)

Why do you need base height and damper adjustment? Research would suggest all the brands you suggested are average Teins might be better. Koni's are at least easily rebuildable, working with what you have could prove to be the cheapest way to go, and easiest to rebuild in future, Koni's are well supported, not sure about other newer brands... Bilsteins are far better in regards to reliability and consistency. Ohlins, Sachs, Pensche, MCA,and maybe KW are another step up.

More info? I have had no rear seat complaints on long drives when front seats have been moved forward a couple of notches. I normally just leave them all the way back though. I find the reclinable rear seats allow passengers to sit nice and upright, which is good when they have bad backs. Can't fault the car. Love the sunrooves, no leaks etc. I would recommend buying the best series 2 you can if you are inbetween M35 and C34 budgets. Personally I prefer S1 looks I have had mine for 2 and a half years, and done all the basics, done 50k km, and a few 1100km+ day trips, so if you have any questions in particular, let me know.

Hey mate, Pop by TopPerformance in Vermont, they can rebuild and revalve your Koni's to suit any rate you want. Choose come custom springs, Brown springs in thomastown will do a custom set of 4 for 260. That would give you a decent setup, and would re-use what you have. I have type flex, they are decent, But I had Koni's in my datto and they felt "nicer". I assume you have yellows in the car? You won't get coilover camber adjustment in a Double Wishbone car, this is only on MacPherson strut car, your front and rear camber is adjusted by your Upper Control arms. -Ryan

You beat me to it. Imagine customs.

Correct. Also good to avoid R&R.

noooooooo Lambo's are at their peak right now(RWD FTW), and that door shit is horrid.

I think it was TMR who rumored that the toyota would be shorter.

boxer helps COG, i'm not complaining, the dealership who will be servicing it for me will be. This is exactly the kind of car I would look at buying new, Especially the if the toyo is a shorter wheelbase than the subi. I wouldn't buy an AWD lightweight coupe, defeats the purpose. And NA is a good thing IMO, its good fun. Its not like you can go stupid and maintain your warranty. I would buy one if its RWD, 1200kg or less, 2door, 2+2 seater ,4cyl, ~150kw, geared for its torque, and a well balanced/engineered chassis/suspension package. And a price to suit people looking at Golf GTI's/WRX's.

M35 has a larger fuel tank... need to go off of L/100km My auto S1 gets similar econ to your car.