_Ryan_

OTR?

I did 300km in some crazy rain yesterday, alot of standing water etc, zero issues with grip, no aqua planing.

there is a group buy on r31skylineclub for some H&R springs with matched bilsteins, have you seen them? would they suit your needs? I had similar in my 31 with swaybars, was a good drive.

QFM A1RM- 120 per axle. =240 car RDA slotted rotors, approx 350 for the car motul RBF600- 30-60 (one or two bottles) unique autosports sells their own brand of brake master cylinder stopper for 90 I would also have some high quality tyres on the list, such as RE001's, If you must go to a "semi pattern(s compound) try the RE11, but be aware that all of those tyres seem to need a little bit of heat, where the RE001 stops VERY well cold. with that setup, you will have your head hitting the dash. for under 1750 if you allow 1k for tyres.

Hang on, you are driving a car over power-weight, lied to say it isn't over power to weight, now are gloating on a forum about it? We all know rego sticker numbers are lies. Rye TMU are rather nice, Been RBT'd a couple of times before when staying down there.

i just realized my partner works til 7pm every monday... we're out.

tiger= tortoiseshell, and when the white is black it would be dark tortoiseshell. please microchip them upon sale.

that was just one link. numerous times "green" shocks are mentioned I have teins, I would never buy them, they came with my car. Gary Cook/SK, sets up race cars, anti jap shit. Another suspension engineer(who's name i wont post as i dont know if they would want it dragged into it) Told me that bilsteins are pretty much the minimum even for a street car, and not to touch the jap shit off the shelf. I had koni's in one of my cars, but they take some fidling to get right, and it wasn't driven enough to see the rumored reliability issues. Unlike bilsteins, work well off the shelf if you match the springs, and no reliability issues in the sets I have had(and from what reading on the topic I have done)

http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html

Its on! Roman mentioned getting some for his new rims too.

Details?

Why not order some RPF1's from the states or japan for less and get a lower offset?

Got a list of what is needed for RWC, I will provide RWC upon sale, work for roadworthy will be carried out upon receiving deposit.

personally I would grab some bilsteins, B6's will be approx 1100 from memory. Quadrant in Berwick will probably be the cheapest.

Aussie made with Aussie steel.

cant hurt to do new ball joints IMO, shock systems on NS has em for a decent price.

I would not run 14psi. Do a search on ceramic+stock turbo.

Which weds are they? SA90?

use your standard RB20 actuator and you should get approx 10psi. This is all I would personally run if I valued my turbo.

http://www.knoxjournal.com.au/news/local/n...ou/1686500.aspx

can they be used for RB20 strokers? (Curiosity)

i'm running 17x9+30 235/45/17 KU36's -2 front, -1.2 rear lightly rolled guards 345mm eyebrow all round 6kg front, 5kg rear diameter will be 1mm less, width will be 30mm more. you will be running more camber, and more of a rear guard roll than me, should be fine, fronts, should be fine, want me to check inner clearance for you? what height will you be running? Troy might be your man. My mechanic ran 34GTR rims, no issues on a 32GTR, so I assume with rear guard work and your front gtr guards you should be fine. how come you are running 18's, and a 265 on a 9? why not 33GTR rims with a 235?

they have been there a while, they look like they do a bit of custom work for the locals projects etc might be worth adding another muffler whilst you are there too

I think whiteline stuff is made in China now, don't quote me on that, pretty sure Selby's are made in aus still? waits for gary to come in and set us straight.

110 could be anywhere from 50-150 or so, depends on work needed...