_Ryan_

What about those who need the top end at the track? or on the dyno? www.nistune.com trent at status tuning is the man in vic

RB26= ITBs= throttle response. run N1 turbos for an undetectable 300rwkw. RB25 cant have an undetectable 300rwkw turbo

Maybe I like it due to being an ex-datto owner? anyway, I have it in the shed(aka laundry) if I want to put it back in, maybe I should...

Find a wholesaler who will do ACL at trade?

My stag and dattos and R31s were way more reliable than the mrs's supra... that said, stag is the most reliable car I have ever had!

haha, i'll put it in my sig, just for the exposure of my whoring.

Well, i got a stupidly modified L18 passed in my datsun 1600... depends who checks it.

Man thats shit, they should of just bought my car...

He's been doing that a bit...

wouldn't it just need R33 brakes and an engineers cert aslong as they don't notice the EPA related mods?

Hey all I fitted http://www.gktech.com.au/products/?id=160 recently. When doing a "u-turn", on full lock the wheel has clearance issues, and the wheel "binds"(gets stuck on full lock, have to wrench it back, which with no power steering, isn't fun), Now, to correct this, I could get Nigels Rack Spacers, Knuckles, new rims etc, spend around 2.5k, and potentially make the car shit in the hills and for anything grip orientated, So I am guessing I should just remove the tie rod spacers, and possibly fit the rack spacers but NOT knuckles. Who else has fitted tie rod spacers, and who has thought about fitting them, but did not know of the potential issues you can run into? -Ryan

Yeah, gonna put it on car sales in a few weeks... its now down too 12.5k with 12months reg anyway

update; Parts fitted: Front whiteline camber kit, Kazama castor rods, rear cusco camber arms, alloy subframe bushes, tein mono flex 8/6, 2way LSD, 17x9 wearing 235/35/17 KU36, No power steering. Running 345mm Front height, 335mm rear height, Front alignment: Castor 6deg each side Toe out 2mm total -2deg camber each side Rear: 1mm toe in total -1mm camber each side. since the height change and alignment it is like a new car, no more bump steer, turn in and mid corner feel is very good, the kumho KU36 are decent for a street tyre for the money, can get power down on exit even with the 2way. prior to the height change was 320/280, was the lowest monoflex could go, felt like shit.

update; Parts fitted: Front whiteline camber kit, Kazama castor rods, rear cusco camber arms, alloy subframe bushes, tein mono flex 8/6, 2way LSD, 17x9 wearing 235/35/17 KU36, No power steering. Running 345mm Front height, 335mm rear height, Front alignment: Castor 6deg each side Toe out 2mm total -2deg camber each side Rear: 1mm toe in total -1mm camber each side. since the height change and alignment it is like a new car, no more bump steer, turn in and mid corner feel is very good, the kumho KU36 are decent for a street tyre for the money, can get power down on exit even with the 2way. prior to the height change was 320/280, was the lowest monoflex could go, felt like shit.

I'm with TJ, between work, the mrs, mates and events planned in advance(months), i'm booked out... Come to members events

You would be best off with Bilsteins, or if you MUST stick with a "sick" brand, rebuild what you have. BC Racing isnt Buddy Club I dont think...

Guessing that is the knuckle thread? Currently reading that, about 30% of the way through... up too post 521

going on a datto cruise the next week end

Different to Tie Rod Spacers? guess i'll contact him. thx

You have PM

I have used them 4 or 5 times, they are great to deal with, deliver within a day or two from order.

Good on him! Maybe General Auto, but not Wasteland.

the binding is more of an issue

Are you in vic?