_Ryan_

Hence my front pads

that is a very good price... BUY THEM DAN

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ra...al-t285352.html

4 or 5 stud or multistud?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/18...-9-t276060.html As new, they are a guy I know's, He has always looked after his car and rims... Could correct the rolling diameter with tyre profile, or do you want 18x9? F: 18" x 8" + 23 (Advan RS2 semi slicks, just under the markers) R 18" x 9" +21 (Michelin Pilot Sport 2's, also under the markerS)

Good answer. Did you not read the bit about 235/45/17 being one of the cheapest tyre sizes as most places carry them in bulk Also less sidewall flex than a 245. Now, go and take a wheel off, and have a look for a label on the inside, if there isn't one, bust out the tape measure.

I second the whiteline bushes, I run them in both my cars, and being replacement bushes makes them street legal IIRC, where a replacement arm(eg. cusco) would not be. Similar cost to OEM bushes and you can get adjustment, around 220 Trade price. http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail...t_number=KCA336

haha, i havent been around konis for a few years... i will stick to reccomending bilsteins... last time i checked topperformance rebuilt them, and i used to have access to a suspension engineer who did them at home too, but lost track of him I had them in the datto, and they weren't too bad, and knew some people were happy with the yellows, then once they were happy with the valving they were putting bilstein guts in them as it was cheaper to play with koni valving but once sorted was best to go with bilstein parts for the better control

ROTA are trash, google for pix of them breaking around the spokes etc.

I always was told to tow with overdrive OFF in an auto. It would also make sense to add some decent pads to the car if you are towing with it.... do QFM/Racebrakes do BA/VE/AU/VX/VT/VS etc pads?

yuk

Congrats! I know the car, PM me what you paid please so I know what to advertise mine at....

9.5+12 i think... i personally wouldn't run them...

ABC news claims that ACL will be business as usual

Internal The smaller housing on a twin scroll 3076 could work on an RB20?

I have seen two white stageas with black bonnets... it ruins them IMO... like the whole wannabe carbon fibre, and if you had carbon fibre in vic, you would paint it on a light car. Gold GTC's for sure, Personally not a fan of that colour on that car, but you built that car for you, and you like it, and that is all that matters!!! the car sits well and the conversion looks great!

Point taken.... some of the Koya rims IE drift tek are multi stud, so would suit 4/5 stud pre/post conversion... So new set of drift teks would be similar money as second hand jap rims without the risk of buying damaged and repaired wheels...

True, was just thinking it might move a little, not sure exactly how much it might move though.

But this opens up the wheel market, one set of rims doesnt... http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=269&page=1

Silver

re-drill rotors, wheels, JJR or ebay hubs... i think that is the budget way?

redrill?

get JJR 5stud hubs or the ones posted earlier and those TE37's!!!

A good tyre and Pad is the best place too start in the quest for good stopping on a street car!!! My Stagea with RE001's and RB74 front, Endless SSS rear easily stops better and with better feel than my 32 with KU36 and EBC Green Stuff - Front EBC Black Stuff - Rear, I wouldnt='t wish any EBC or Bendix pads on my worst enemy, next mod for the 32 is QFM A1RM which is meant to be the new version of the RB74 compound and available cheaply through the SAU sponser... Braided lines and MC stopper will be done further down the track on the 32, but seem pointless on the stagea as wouldnt we need to brace the ABS assembly?

f**k, time to credit card RB20 pistons/rods/bearings just incase haha... was going to get custom and go ~9:1 comp once i sold the stagea