_Ryan_

give the dyno guy a cut and get him to fudge it

Velo seats are nice, ADR legal, and good value! VDO gauges are nice on a budget, my 16 had them, or a 3gauge din DEFi unit is NICE

also more of them smashed by now maybe? Just Cars are awesome so far... My premium has dropped every year, even though I went to an area with slightly higher crime(Mount Waverley -> Toorak)

Is it okay for the motor running different oils mixed?

740cc or pop?

It seems that I won't be satisfied with my car running a GT30 from the above posts, all of the above replys have helped The money spent on turbo/ecu/injectors will never be seen again when i sell the car, so if i replace the turbo with a low km neo unit and sell the car and use the funds i would use for the mods with the sale price, i would be in evo6/FD3S/33GTR territory, all of which can easily do 12's. Thanks all for the input, looks like it saved me a lot of money and heart-ache. -Ryan

cant you get short stroke bilsteins?

GCG do them and ship them down... i havent had time to hit up eastern turbochargers for a quote, they are in bayswater. ATP in chady area didnt seem that friendly...

slide sells em

spoken to techsport? arent they meant to be the melbourne evo gurus?

I also think bawbaw is 100km/h

i thought you wanted linear rate if you are going to be playing with the height with the circlips

Autronic SMC is similar money i think.

mmm, my bushes are fine, might try these arms you speak of when they wear out... i said lots of castor, not less... my old non-power steering dattos wheels used to hit the front guards at times

post in your local section or cover my fuel

www.rhdjapan.com have them too

Cheers for the insight, maybe i should be looking at the large 3076... and then that would be usable when the motor goes pop(eventually) and a high-deck 3L is put in. Dale, what kind of part-throttle and full-throttle response do you get with your set-up? My auto is only an advantage in the short term, as when funds allow i would prefer my car to be manual! at the moment i have around 130-150awkw, aslong as things arent WORSE below 3grand, i will be content, as when i am driving fast, it stays between 3-7k obviously. i am avoiding going a 2871 with a OP6 rear like i had originally planned as i want something that supports enough to get me close to a 12-13sec 1/4. auto stags with around 160awkw manage 14.2ish, so an extra 100+awkw and a manual trans should get 13's or hopefully crack 12's(doubt it though) Also, I have read that sticking to the compressor and turbine housings the wheels were designed for is better for flow, and i dont want to throw something on knowing deep down it isnt as good as it COULD be, but i DO know a street 1750kg wagon will always be compromises. for comparison, my car against a new 6L SS ute, off the line they take me, then i catch up once i am out of my silly tall first gear(coming from a car with crazy short gearing ) My aim is maximum area under the curve, rapid boost built when the foot starts to go down, and 250+ awkw(and hopefully a low 13?) Keep in mind, the RIPS drag R34 GTR is the same weight as my stagea, and it ran 9's(IIRC) first pass out(granted it had 2-3x my target power )

350 is standard for rwd clutch install i think, what car is it?

brain fart FTW... i have a car with pretty much the same front end as his, with adjustable bushes adjustable arms supposedly increase NVH(Noise Vibration Harshness), so adjustable whiteline bushes work well in that aspect, and i am happy with the adjustment i got from mine. i like my cars with as much positive castor as i can run... and not much neg camber either end.

bilsteins are great out of the box, and work with a decent range of springs, are awesome on the street, and many people use them on the track... go for a ride in someones car with bilsteins and swaybars

roughly what size? comparable to a GT30? or smaller?

So after reading pretty much every GT30 thread on this forum over the past few days, I have come to this conclusion, which I would like the gurus(?Adrian?, Dale, Lithium) to confirm. GCG do a package: Lines, Spacers, Gaskets, Turbo, Dump, Pretty much everything minus an intake pipe for 3070 inc GST RRP, with my turbo dying and expecting a credit card approval, i think this is what all the threads point at: RB25DET 2WD/RWD The best option for traction and power(300ish rwkw) is the Large .84? Garret rear IW GT3076r But i own a Stagea, 1750kg, currently auto(manual when it blows), and keeping an eye out for a cheap PFC or will be going a Vipec/Link, a Real GT3071R (700177-5023) with a .63? Garret IW rear should be capable of approx. 270rwkw(which means the cheap 480cc S15 injectors are safe to use VS nismo's for 2-3x the price), dying off after 6500-6800rpm(7000redline anyway) but hopefully getting around 6-7psi around 2-2300rpm, aiming for decent boost by 2800-3300 and all in ASAP(18psi?) for a decent MIDRANGE powerband. An exhaust cam-gear would help bring the boost threshold down. EDIT: [ And a stock internal RB25DET should last longer on 270awkw than 330 ] Current mods: Full exhaust, FMIC, un-connected EBC, so will do turbo/pump/injectors/ECU all at once! So if anyone with more knowledge than I can confirm or correct the above conclusion, it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Ryan

Gizzmo are meant to be good value for money, no frills.

ATP in chady have a stage 3 highflow on the shelf for 1595 when i called

pity i didnt know, i work a few doors up(oops, read that as 242 lonsdale, i am two blocks away and pass it rarely) ...