Yonz

Yeah a 3.7 or 3.6 will definitely be the sweet spot for it IMO

It's all set for E85, so once I commit to that it will really shine But at the moment going to E85 is a bit of a pain and I'd like to have a better clutch and the GTR rear end fitted ahead of time, which is more money and time. I just want to drive the thing again for now

Thanks Works a treat and can't complain for only $400 Basically the closeness of the turbine blades to the housing is what grabbed my interest, the old turbo had an easy 5mm gap. See vid below for what I mean. A few other things went into my decision but compared to the old turbo, this Holset is better all round. Old setup on the left, new on the right. Boost coming along a lot earlier despite the turbos being very similar in wheel sizes. Admittedly the head being ported would have had an impact in this as well, but not nearly 1000rpm worth. Also the hall effect sensors have visibly cleaned up the power curve. FYI, I rate PITS and ASG very highly. This pic is not about comparing the 2 shops, simply observing the difference in engine behaviour between my 2 setups.

Update time! Engine is running again and I changed a few things up while it was apart: Switched to a Hall Effect setup for timing, very similar to the setup @HarrisRacing has (Thanks again for the clarification on the wiring mate) Running a Holset HX40 from TurboLab instead of the ProBoost GTX35 Had the head ported while it was off Degreed the cams Drilled out the oil drains to 10mm Made a swirl port and larger header tank Working speedo and a battery isolator Threw in a NPC clutch Heaps of other little things went on but those were the big time killers. Anyway, onto the pics Before fitting the new pump I picked up a busted one for free, which I used as a template to make a bracket for the crank trigger (busted pump not in pics) Took a couple goes to line everything up and still have it clear the balancer, but I got there eventually Tapped a M12 x 1.0 thread into the left support bracket, and just using the 2 supplied slim nuts on the other; all with Loctite. That 12T wheel is from Hi Octane Racing About 2-3mm clearance for the balancer at the closest point The guts of a gutted and free CAS housing rocking a GT101 sensor Managed to use all of the existing bolt holes to secure the sensor itself and fitted the other one just to keep water and whatever else out. Only needed a bit of smoothing out with the die grinder to get it to sit level. Then chopped up a bit of 6mm plastic to secure the body of the sensor and clamp everything down; again Loctite on everything. Didn't really get any pics of the bolts on the cam but it's basically the same as Harris. Grinded down the standard bolts, then got a longer M7 bolt and spaced it out with one M7 nut and 2 (from memory) 1mm washers. All with Loctite and also grinded the bolt face smooth so the letters aren't causing dramas. More for my reference but I'm sure someone else might find this handy. Header tank and swirl pot ready for paint. Already made the brackets and made sure they'd fit, also leak checked. These were more of a welding practice project but I'm happy with how they turned out. Fair bit bigger than the little cylinder ebay items and used all the available space without going too crazy. I have all the dimensions for this if anyone wants them. Swirl pot sitting pretty too. Does clear the bonnet, but only just haha Using a Acewell 3100 dash for tacho and speedo, this is the supplied speedo sensor fitted up off the tailshaft centre bearing. Had to cut and tap a sleeve for the magnet to sit in, probably would have flung off otherwise. Got it to within 5k's for the moment, will dial it in a bit more at the next track day. Holset HX40 sits very nice in the bay, only needed to change the oil drain a tiny bit for it to fit up Most of the hard work done Finally fitting up the BOV, welds slowly improving too All finished! For now anyway

Yeah pretty much, it's an interference fit. The fitment of the pump needs the locating dowels on the block removed as well.

Faintly visible cracking in the pic. It looked pretty impressive with the dye penetrant glowing under the UV light Good news for the other crank though, just waiting on the collar to be fitted

Yeah, well worth doing if you have the patience for it I did the inside of the ridges in the below pic as one sheet, then I layed the whole side of the car from the A pillar back with one sheet; which slightly overlapped the wrap on the centre of the roof. Thanks, a YouTube tutorial was my only previous experience

Aftermarket crank collar with a N1 pump and billet gears I was planning on laying heat reflective tape over it for the first couple track days, to see how it goes before committing to something more substantial. I'll be keeping a close eye on it, but if that isn't good enough I might just bite the bullet straight up. 5 rolls that were 1.5m x 3m each

Dropped off the crank and spline drive to the machinist shop yesterday Unfortunately the crack testing revealed some pretty bad cracking around the No.6 big end and main. Luckily a mate has a good condition crank (will get it crack tested to make sure), so fingers crossed everything goes smoothly with this one Found a pic of one of the last laps before the pump gave out

Sweet as, thanks for that Flywheel is 46mm tall when measured from the outside, and 43mm tall when measured through the flywheel bolt holes

Ripped the engine and box out over the Christmas holidays, everything is looking pretty good considering the failure Had to get the grinder out to cut the cam cap baffle plate nuts off, dam things just spun. Raw Brokerage is the only place I could find online that sell the bolts, anyone know a better place? Clutch is struggling with 4th gear, but it will do until a new turbo setup comes along Big ends are looking healthy A bit of emery paper and the cams will come up a treat Crank will get a polish while it's getting the spline collar installed All the bearings, plastigauge, lube, Loctite, gaskets and fluids are either in the post or sitting in the shed... so as soon as everything arrives I can put her back together again. Hopefully around the start of Feb While I was bored (after ripping everything apart), I started mounting up a front splitter. Curious to see how it will go

Cut up some Lexan and now I have an artsy oil pump on display Will remove the engine and begin a proper tear down on Thursday or Friday, yay...

Spool Imports has been making a spline drive for a couple years now http://www.spoolimports.com/billet-oil-pump-gears/nissan-rb

Tear down BEGIN! Rounding evident on the collar Pump is rooted I think I'll get some Perspex and hang this on my wall... So I'll be removing the crank to fix up the collar (spline drive this time). New bearings throughout and fixing anything else I might find along the way. I get to give myself my own Christmas presents

Headed out to QR last night, unfortunately after an hour of track time the oil pump gave up (suspected) My brother was driving at the time, but gopro footage shows about 3-4 seconds at about 2000rpm before he realised what the alarm was and turned the engine off. Towed back to the pits and (after confirming there was no leaks from hoses and the sump was full) cranked it without ignition which revealed a really fast ticking noise and no build in oil pressure, so I'm pretty confident the pump gears shit themselves for some reason. So... The plan is to remove the oil pump with the engine in the car and see what exactly I'm dealing with. Hopefully the crank collar is ok. Any (relatively) cheap dry sump setups for sale?

Got all of the little dramas from Matsuri fixed up, so tomorrow morning I'm off to a morning session at QR Crossmember rack mounts moved 25mm forward Thanks to the trusty engine crane and seatbelts BAM, and the bind is gone! Also fixed a heap of little things, so pretty keen to get it out there again

Cheers, pretty stoked with how it turned out Can't go wrong with vinyl when it comes to cost either; just under $400 was enough to get the whole car done. Handled delaminated tyres, fuel, heat and more like a champ

Been a bit slack with updates, but things have been happening Prep for Matsuri went well... I can't remember what all the little things were that I fixed, but more heat shielding was one of them. With all the little things squared away I decided to focus on presentation a bit, paint (of course) being the first thing to come to mind. But with some mates at the time talking about vinyl I decided to give it a go, so I bought one small roll for about $70 and watched a YouTube how-to . This turned out to be enough for the bonnet and quarter panels Because the clear was lifting in places I sanded it back a bit to try and stop the vinyl from eventually lifting due to it. So I was pretty happy with the colour and the "ease" of application, so I bought some more to finish the car off I managed to get it all finished off a few days before Matsuri (minus the rear bumper, because lazy) Performed without drama for almost the whole day haha Though eventually there was a few small issues that popped up, as you have to expect. A snapped front wheel stud, a small fuel leak due to the cap not sealing properly, rear toe arm loose, offset rack spacers loose and massive bind at max lock. Managed to fix it all up and keep it going for the whole weekend, apart from a few hours lost on Sat night because the power steering belt snapped. Also filling the catch can after a few laps, so I'm playing around with a few things to help that. Modified crossmember to bring the rack forward will also be going in soon. Had an absolute killer time over the weekend, there just isn't enough time in the day haha And a few vids

When you do get around to mounting the widebands, have a quick read of where it is recommended to fit them. I'm sure they'll perform fine no matter where you put them, but longevity is probably the aim behind this (compared to being mounted immediately behind the turbo).

Spool and CP bottom end with extended crank collar and billet gear pump R33 S2 head with Tomei 256° cams and internal VCT mod RIPS intake, 6Boost mani, 50mm gate and ProBoost GTX35 (.82 rear) A1000 pump, 1200 FPR, 1200cc injectors Haltech plugin with 3bar MAP, Air temp and Wideband LS2 coilpacks Running 98 for the moment

Catch can arrived, fits a treat I'll be fixing up the breather soon Went to QR on the 19th Aug with the new leads and ran into the misfire issue again, tried changing a few things at the track but didn't have enough stuff to troubleshoot properly. Got another set of leads off a mate to try, same thing.... so it's not the leads this time. Ripped out the coils and loom, looked over the loom for damage and checked all my earths and everything looks fine. Took my coils to a mate with a tester and BAM, 1 coil was on struggle street. YES! The problem has been found, I thought. Test drive around the block and it was still playing up. At this point I still had a few ideas to try, but having been around the block about 10 times I figured I'd be pushing my luck. So, off to QR again, but this time with as many spares and tools as I could bring, and also a laptop for the ECU. Changing one thing at a time, one lap at a time. We eventually noticed the MAP sensor was reading lower than what my boost gauge was, which led us to this sneaky f**ker. Looked fine until you actually paid attention to it. So once we got rid of the filter and ran a new vacuum line, it was smooth sailing for the rest of the night Also, fitted some H1 LED's after realising the old bulbs were rubbish Very happy with the gktech knuckles, both front and rear Needed to cover up the hole in the CAS after mending it at PITS So, Matsuri is locked in and I'm fixing a few small issues that need attention after QR, but very happy with how it's going!

Tune is done and dusted, really happy with how it went It developed a miss on one of the last runs of the day, but the tune was done by this point. Spend a hour or so trying to figure out what the problem was and put it down to spark, with coils being the first thing on the list. My old man has an LS2 luckily, so I pinched his coils and it behaved the same, changed spark plugs, still the same, and finally changed the leads and BAM, problem solved! So I have ordered some new leads and with any luck they'll arrive before the next Friday night drift at QR. Fuel is 98

Booked the tune with PITS, so in a couple weeks I'll either be very happy.... or not Current mood; excited Catch can from AT Performance is on its way as well, which is lovely

in other news, got some more little jobs finished off Voltmeter via a pushbutton that sits where the ashtray goes. All out of one piece of aluminium, took ages haha Got the wheel alignment sorted out today as well, so it's only a couple short weeks away from a tune now

Yeah I know plenty of people that go through them pretty quick, so I figured I may as well try my luck with this box as it's meant to be much stronger... that and triple synchro goodness Also... Left is my setup with 350Z box, right is standard R33 gtst