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Yonz

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Everything posted by Yonz

  1. Yonz
    gktech shifter relocation arrived yesterday, so I fitted it up today Always armed with Loctite (The reverse lockout bolt got a hefty amount) Marked up how much of the input shaft to chop off, as seen in the pic I went for 9mm This pic shows why it has to be chopped Underneath view Interior pieces still fit, and didn't even need to trim/cut anything! Quick vid from underneath, pretty happy with it so far
  2. Yonz
    Nah no speed sensor, not that I can recall anyway. Good to know though, thanks fellas
  3. Yonz
    By GTR rear end I mean the diff, shafts and hubs. I'm mainly wanting to swap to the GTR setup for the 6x1 shafts, as I have 3x2 at the moment. (Bought the 33 ages ago with no drivetrain, so the standard diff is long gone) I was intending on changing the input flange on the diff, as I already have a tailshaft made to suit the 350Z box. Thanks for the insight on the crownwheels, I'll sus that out before I jump into anything
  4. Yonz
    Hi all, I've got a 350Z 6 speed manual in my R33, so I'm using an S15 crown and pinion (3.692) to bring all the gears back close to standard. This pic might explain that better, it's my current setup Vs a standard R33 The diff will be taking some abuse once it's tuned and hitting the track, so I've lined up a 32GTR rear end to swap out. I obviously want to keep that 3.692 ratio in the diff. Will the 3.692 crown and pinion work in the 32GTR housing? Cheers
  5. Yonz
    Fixed everything from last nights run and gave it another crack today. Not before fitting this baddie though Not a single drama with this one, very happy Still doing that weird coolant temp shutoff thing, but that's pretty minor for the time being.
  6. Yonz
    Just incase I forget down the road. I pulled the gate apart today to check the springs, it has 1x 7psi and 1x 10psi spring.
  7. Yonz
    Gauge bracket fitted up a treat, took a little more tinkering than I thought it might but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Ohh, the head unit works too Screamer welded up and painted. Even cured it in the oven haha Gloves on for exhaust wrap And the dump too Fitted up and looking good Started it up again and brought it up to operating temp. Found a couple more little things to fix, but it went pretty well After a few minutes from cold it kept cutting out and wouldn't start unless the ECU water temp sensor was disconnected. I thought it would be running rich until a certain temp, then run leaner? It's AFR is around 11.3 so it's plenty rich already. I can't figure out why it was dying unless the sensor is stuffed?
  8. Yonz
    Can you please change my username to Yonz Cheers
  9. Yonz
    Ahh no worries Sure;
  10. Yonz
    Anyone having any dramas seeing pics? I can't see pictures in build threads that used to display fine before the update. W10, Edge browser
  11. Yonz
    Kicked things off my removing the oil cooler, and actually fitting the shroud I made for it. Pretty happy with how snug it sits The fan pulls a pretty decent amount of air, so it shouldn't have any trouble managing my temps Hopefully the oil cooler never needs to come out, fitting it without taking the bumper off was a small mission After the cooler was fitted up I setup the relay for the fan, and then started running all the wires into the interior for all my gauges and etc With the bulk of the wires ran inside I started making up brackets to hold everything. 1st up was the head unit Pretty happy with how sturdy it is. 3 screws and the entire cage comes out nice and easy Above the head unit I'll have 2 gauges (Oil temp and water temp), and next to its respective gauge there will be a switch for the oil cooler fan, and a momentary on/off for a water squirter for the oil cooler and radiator. Possibly overkill, but it's pretty easy to setup so why not. It will mount off the AC screws and I will probably brace it from behind as well.
  12. Yonz
    Sorry to but in, but if I were to install that knock sensor on a RB25 loom (which only has 1 wire for each sensor), would you just earth the other connection on the plug?
  13. Yonz
    Started this weekend off by modifying the header tank and Y pipe. A mate welded a -6 drain onto the header tank, and another -6 onto the pipe for the return. This time the pipe is the proper size and has rolled ends Next up was bleeding the clutch, which went wonderfully. The clutch engages/disengages at about 1/3 of its travel from fully depressed Then being in a happy mood I marked the coils, for no particular reason, as to which cylinder they belong I then removed the filter on the side of the block and started making up the lines for the remote filter. I placed the oil pressure sensor on the return line, incase the cooler shits itself I should know about it straight away, not after the sump is dry Then just all the little bits and bobs. Radiator back in and fill with water, intercooler pipes back in, tailshaft back in, dump pipe back on... blah blah blah Next will be finishing the wiring for the gauges, making the screamer and a few other little things
  14. Yonz
    Yeah that's it. Also, making the oil drain and all the other little jobs would have been a nightmare with the engine in, so it was far from a wasted effort
  15. Yonz
    Got some 19mm OD stainless pipe and made up a oil drain for the turbo, thanks to a mate an his new TIG Leak checked it and installed it, but not before covering it with some nice heat reflective stuff Fitted the turbo beanie while the engine was out, far out was it a tight fit. But it does look pretty Also cut up some stainless to cover up the holes where the AC used to run Had some spare heat shield, so I figured I may as well throw it on this oil drain too Engine and box back in the car Hooked up the master and slave while the box was out to try find the leak, could not find anything wrong at all. Nipped up the lines while it was out, just incase, and bolted it back up to the engine... so I'm pretty confident whatever the "leak" was before, was just a case of tripping balls
  16. Yonz
    Spoke to the guys at Haltech and they kindly linked me to their site with all the older versions of basemaps. So all I has to do was keep uploading a map until the ECU said it was compatible, and once the locked map was no more I updated the ECU firmware and it was good to go. Seems I was a little high strung last weekend for no reason I spent most of Saturday doing final checks and playing with the ECU. Calibrated the Wideband, activated the 3bar MAP, air temp sensor and boost solenoid. ​Ran into a small drama with the TPS, but I was able to dodgy that up for the run. Got a new plug on the way to fix it properly. First start went well Oil pressure picked up straight away, fuel pressure was solid, AFR was reading about 11 or 12, no leaks at all and no bad noises either. So pretty happy with that! ​ The engine and box are out of the car again now to fix the clutch leak and a few other little details. ​Wheel alignment and tune aren't far away now
  17. Yonz
    Decided to fire it up before ripping the engine and box out to fix the clutch leak. Since it has to come out anyway, may as well check nothing else needs fixing while it's out. So, we managed to finished off the dump and sort out the Haltech wideband Wideband loom insulated and dump fitted 3.5" all the wayyyyyyy Also made this up to go on the back of my oil cooler Filled it up with water, the header tank up the back is a good 50mm higher than the rad, and 30mm higher than the water galleries for the turbo. Happy days Powered the car up, calibrated the wideband and accessed the ECU... and the Cbomb was f**king locked! I couldn't load a base map on it because the ECU firmware is too old for the new maps (currently available on the Haltech site). I couldn't update the ECU firmware because the map is locked. f**k!!! Why the F any shithead feels they NEED to lock the map is beyond me. The ECU is basically bricked for the time being, all because some dickhead tuner was feeling precious. The mob who tuned it don't know what the password might be, so that's just great. ​ So, I'll be contacting Haltech tomorrow to see if they can help me get a clean slate
  18. Yonz
    Exhaust dump is almost complete, 3" to 3.5" after the 90 ​Also wrapped the FL brake line in some heat reflective stuff, along with the vacuum lines to the gate Fitted the TPS and made up a bracket for the throttle cable Finished the lines to and from the oil cooler Did a by eye alignment to make it a little easier to push around, pretty happy with the lock Unfortunately we came across a leak inside the bellhousing when we were bleeding the clutch; must have overlooked one of the lines on the slave. ​So Engine and box will come out as one to make that easier, hopefully this weekend.
  19. Yonz
    Slowly been ticking things off the list since the start of the year, the last week has seen a massive jump in progress though... but here is a quick look as to what's happened over the past 5 months. Cold side intercooler piping pieced together Squeezing past the oil cooler Welded together 4" intake and a new UNI Filter CAD airbox Airbox finished, including relocation of the power steering res and adding in a cooler last of the intercooler piping pieced together and welded Starting to tackle the wiring, new injector loom Made a bracket for the Haltech MAP sensor Checking and re-insulating the engine loom, while adding in the Haltech wires for MAP and air temp Cusco 2 way, gktech hicas lockout and whiteline swaybar General underbody shot Whiteline swaybar, offset rack spacers and Cusco coilovers all round (got rid of the D2 coils) Heat wrapped the cold side since it's running so close to the oil relocation and cooler How she sits with all the new suspension bits Making lines for the oil cooler Piecing together the dump pipe leak checking the fuel system​ And that is up to date as of this afternoon, it's looking pretty close now for the first start!
  20. Yonz
    Shit ay, that sucks. ​I haven't run in a new engine before, so unfortunately I can't help you there. Hopefully some of the more experienced blokes will be able to give advice. ​Either way, I hope it's nothing too serious
  21. Yonz
    Can you post a pic of your thermostat mate? ​I'm pretty sure the Greddy oil thermostats are never fully closed, to avoid the engine getting a dose of cold oil once it gets to temp. So I doubt very much your engine got any air due to it opening. Also, how much of that metal would you guess came from you cutting the filter open?
  22. Yonz
    R6n350GT Not sure what you mean sorry mate. The box is a cd009 if that's what you're curious about. Super slack at updating this thanks to my computer dying, going to Japan (Ebisu!!) and moving from the NT back to QLD, but the 33 has had steady progress during a busy year. So now that I have a computer and internet again I can resume updates Continuing from where I left off; Finally found a 3.58 diff, I will be throwing a cusco 2 way amongst it soon enough I needed to make up the fuel system wiring, so I mocked this up Luckily I had some spare time at work and was able to throw this together Sitting in the 33 all ready to go Tight fit for the fuel lines, but they clear the tank. -8 feed and -6 return More spare time at work and the rusty battery thingy is sandblasted, keen for a lick of paint gktech LCA's rocked up. It was a bit of a guessing game putting them together, but I got most of it correct after confirming with Greg ​"The rose joints on these arms have 1" longer threaded section so the rose joint can safely be extended a total of 35mm (really it could probably go even further but we have to stop somewhere)." - Greg from gktech gkteck knuckles were next on the list to assemble, so I ripped apart what I need from the factory knuckles Easy as pie Testing clearance with everything installed and I found I was fouling on the brake bracket, so I cut up some angle and welded them on No more fouling! Got the braided lines fitted up nice throughout the entire range of lock as well I also redone all of the braided lines to the turbo. I forgot to install the heat shield stuff first time around Engine, box and tailshaft all back in the car, hopefully never to come out again. On the ground for the first time in well over a year (Have Cusco coils to go in soon, back is sitting way too low with current coils). Interior back together As she sits now, more or less
  23. Yonz
    Awesome, thanks for that
  24. Yonz
    Made up some brackets to hold the new fuel lines and the old brake and tank breather lines. Cut and drilled some rubber spacers/holders which work quite well. Bent up the hardline and flared the ends, it all sits pretty well I recon (Tek screws on the brackets are temporary while I'm taking everything in and out) Started putting the braid onto the fittings, need to wrap the lines to avoid chaffing. Looks like it will be pretty snug next to the tank. A1000 and Nuke filter are mounted with their nice rubber mounts Got a oil drain for the turbo and head made up. AN fittings were going to be too bulky. Once this fuel system is sorted I've got to finish up the wiring and the interior, fun times ahead. Also, anyone have any idea how to remove a pin/wire from this plug?
  25. Yonz
    Very keen to see more of this, good luck with it
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