Yonz

Cheers. Awesome, there is quite a few big events coming up soon that you won't want to miss. I can't wait to get it out as well, though in the meantime my Maroon 31 is out there every event

Been extremely lazy over the last few months, though I've pulled my finger out once again and I'm back at it Haven't had any luck chasing the diff gears I want. 3.583 from a NA Auto R33 would be ideal, no one has any though. Pulled the subframe and got gktech solid bushes for it. The press at work sure came in handy for that, what a pain! Pulled the engine for more access to make the fuel lines and turbo lines, also installed the flywheel and clutch Got all my fuel system goodies and have put most of them in now. Aeromotive A1000 is directly under the surge. That hole punched stainless sits over the pump to at least offer some protection. Opened up the main tank and was not greeted with a pleasant sight. The pump and fuel level were loose and free to float around, both clogged with gunk and the mounts had just about rusted away. Needless to say, I dropped the tank. Lucky I had a spare tank, so after cleaning the spiders and other creatures out of that I took the level out and cleaned it up. This guide came in quite handy New 340LPH pump with -6 lines all the way to the surge and back Since my old tank was going in the bin, I decided to rip out this sensor that is otherwise inaccessible. It connects to the fuel level. Any ideas what it does exactly? Got a heap of parts waiting to go in, so updates should be somewhat regular... hopefully.

Keen on the Diff and Harness if the sale falls through

Loving the Turbo choice mate, the engine with that Borg should be an absolute weapon.

Bump

I'm chasing a crown wheel with the ratio of 3.583:1 from a R33 NON turbo automatic. They were the only R33's with a ratio that low. Absolute mission to find one as people just throw them out. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks mate, can't wait to test it out. There isn't really a great deal of hassle with it, If I had shops nearby and a bit more spare coin it would be sorted out by now. The tailshaft, slave and shifter mount are the only bits that I've had to sort out. The tailshaft is in the post as of this afternoon and the slave is sorted. gktech will have a shifter mount in the coming months, though if I get desperate I can get one from other shops for about $300 The only other aspect that requires thought is the diff ratio. 4.11 is too short for this box, something around 3.5 would be nice I think. Z33 1st 3.794 2nd 2.324 3rd 1.624 4th 1.271 5th 1.000 6th 0.794 Reverse 3.446 R33 1st 3.321 2nd 1.902 3rd 1.308 4th 1.000 5th 0.759 Reverse 3.382 Though I picked up a R33 GTR diff the other day and I don't know if I can get such a tall ratio to suit it, which would be unfortunate.

Looks awesome mate, wish my welding was to that standard. Changed your mind about the wastegate being positioned on the turbo?

It's never ran. Everthing is brand new and only has assembly lube. I figure it should start pumping eventually, but I don't want to have it cranking for a minute and still have no oil pressure because I skipped a step I didn't know about Pulling plugs and the oil feed will be easy enough. Cheers, I'll try to keep them somewhat regular haha

The loom is 100% done now (slightly old pic). I did a continuity check and everything is as it should be, happy days The difference in height between the push in fitting and the male male -10 90° Coilpacks and covers happy in their new home Quick and probably silly question, I want to turn the engine over to get some oil going through it since it's been sitting a while. Would I need to prime between the filter and pump or something to help it out or should I just be able to crank it and get pressure pretty quickly?

Slow progress is slow. Work has been flat out and the Drift events in Darwin have started up again so I'm back to dividing my spare time and coin Been doing a heap of little things lately Made up a bracket for my LS2 coilpacks to sit in the valley Made up the intercooler mount and an air dam for it Parts came in the mail! Also played around with another set of rocker covers, I drilled out the breather ports and tapped a 7/8 UNF thread (-10AN) to run a 90° fitting as low as I could get to allow for more bonnet clearance. Also the gold looks much better. The coilpack braket almost done with the loom almost done as well The tailshaft has been made up and a few other things are slowly coming together as well

Found the issue, a couple wires in the body loom had rubbed through and were slightly contacting each other

If the AC is off when you accelerate, but it still screeches, it shouldn't be that as it won't have any load to cause slipping. Other than that you could try loading up the electrical systyem... Or take a video of it happening

A couple weeks ago... The battery in my 31 had been on it's way out for a while, that and I hadn't started it for a couple weeks, so I jump started it and all is well. I leave it idle for a while, then turn the lights and indicators on to check they're all working, when the car dies after a couple minutes of flicking them on. I put a voltmeter on the battery with car off, it showed 11.4V - dead battery, no surprise there. Jump start it again and it's charging at 13.6V, but as soon as lights are switched on the alternator cuts off and voltage goes to 11.4V and decreases until the battery gives out. I noticed the brake and volt alert lights (top right of the dash) were on as well. I chatted with a few people and figured switching the lights on was stealing the excitation voltage from the alternator, causing it to stop charging. We figured a new battery would fix it - but it didn't. I put the new battery in and the alternator isn't charging at all now. I put a spare alternator on which didn't change anything. I also had the old alternator tested by a mate that's got all the gear and it's working fine. I replaced all the fusable links and had a breif look over the loom, and noticed this rather confusing event. Also got the voltmeter on the alternator plug. Alternator plug: small white and black wire 0.5V larger white and blue wire 11.5V Are those meant to be about that? All I can think of is a bad earth or perhaps a sticky relay? Anyone had this issue before?

Solid progress so far mate Liking your combined catch can, washer bottle, battery terminal and oil relocation

Nice progress mate Do I see a LS coilpack conversion happening in a previous pic?

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Thanks mate. Yeah, just want to avoid the belt coming off and didn't want to pay through the arse for it. The 4mm alloy might bend eventually but if it does I'll just double the plate up. 6 speed being one benifit (could use a taller diff ratio for close to stock final drive for 1st - 5th and 6th would essentially be overdrive) and it's a stronger box with mostly triple cone synchros throughout it. Shall do

I've had this R33 for a little over 1 year, slowly gathering parts and building the engine during that time. During the last couple months I've had some spare time and all the parts ready to go. So it's finally, slowly, coming together. I picked it up in Darwin for 2.5k, and while pretty rough, was a standard manual S1 GTS-T. It came with alot of spares that I've since sold off to fund useful parts. The parts list for it; Haltech plugin pro ECU RB30DET, Spool rods, CP pistpons (20thou oversize), Raw Brokerage oil pump drive, Spool billet oil pump gears, Tomei springs and poncams (R33 25 head). Spool high volume oil sump MetalJacket Balancer GTX35 from Proboost 6Boost manifold, 48mm gate 3.5" cat back exhaust RIPS intake plenum 350Z 6 Speed transmission (CD009). Adapter plate, flywheel and clutch to suit from MA-Motorsports Z Speed Performance concentric slave 350Z Yolk installed onto tailshaft and tailshaft lengthened - waiting for next pay R33 GTR Diff once the standard one dies gktech drop knuckles when a GTR diff goes in Turbosmart FPR 1200 -8AN fuel feed line, -6AN return LS2 coils - coming soon Velo bucket seat + harness Greddy oil relocation thermostat + oil cooler PWR Intercooler Project Mu handbrake shoes Coolant header tank next to brake booster Power Steering cooler and belt Idler gktech front lock knuckles D2 coilovers Still thinking about the majority of the fuel setup. Trimming the fat a bit to recap progress in pics. So going back about a year or so, I started building the 2530. Brass plug removed for VCT mod Internal VCT mod. 2mm down the guts and 1.5mm out the side Oil gallery welded shut New stem seals, valves, Tomei valve springs, lifters and Tomei Poncams Block machined 20thou oversize and a 5mm deep cutout, 15mm in, to clear the exhaust flange No better workshop than your own room All the gear from MA-Motorsports for the 350Z gearbox conversion Bellhousing machined as required for the conversion Adapter plate bolted down And the RB25 automatic bellhousing bolted down With the Z Speed Performance concentric slave installed. Had to drill a few holes for the clutch lines Test fit for clearence, tailshaft measuring and crossmember modding Mounting point is slightly out. The crossmember has already been modded and fits a treat. The shifting position is out by 240mm. gktech should have something to address this soon, hopefully. My return to system from the header tank My effort to save some cash. My $50 beats Ross balancers $330. Power steering belt idler using a subaru timing belt idler, GMB part #JBT658B Engine bay at the moment. The good manifolds will go on once I know the engine doesn't need to come out again. Box out for some minimal tunnel massaging and general tinkering. The 350Z box is actually shorter than all of these. As the old girl sits now.

Balancer still up for grabs?

PM'd

Any R33 ones left?