RBish

yes r32 gts-4 came from factory with rb20det awd & 5 stud. so standard r32 gtr rotors should fit as thy run the gtr caliper?? i was thinking i may need a cert as i have stepped up 0.5 litre in capacity.

Hey i have just done a AWD NEO RB25Det conversion on my R32 GTS-4. i have 2 questions. does anyone know the biggest rotors i can get to fit? as i dont want the pits to send me back after fitting stock size r32 gts4 rotors. it looks as tho the gts-4 runs the gtr calipers but smaller rotors. stock 32 gts-4 rotors - Front 290x30 Rear 292x18 stock 32gtr rotors - Front 296x32 Rear 297x18 and what have your experiences been with registering an engine upgrade and then did you need to also upgrade the brakes in size? i know laws change from state to state but info would be helpful. thanks.

thanks for the info, heaps of room in the guards i just need to clear the caliper, without stupid amount if poke. i think a slip on would give me enough clearance but i dont want to run slip ons so perhaps a 10 or 15mm bolt on would do it, if i can find a set that is. i would like to run a stretched tyre but nothing too crazy either what sort of mods do you need to do to get the 25/30 working?

now things get interesting with the 3 litre. i have a set of enkei rpf1s 17x 9 + 35 offset, what size spacer would i need aprox? cheers. i dont know much about wheel fitment...

good job, cars looking good.

so dope glad to see you put a filter on, is it rwd?

i have rpf1's 17x9 +35 offset and my rims foul the calipers, how did you get these to fit?

sad to hear, looks like a re used tensioner?

got some work done this weekend. i removed sump and fitted the gts4 front diff centre, new rear main seal and resealed sump.

gts4 diff centre and pinion are now in the rb25 diff. backlash is the same as before it was disassembled. i am a happy man

love this thread. cant wait till im qualified , im definatey going to build a race car. so sick of canarys and permits and cops.

removed the pinion nut today with my 1/2" rattle gun at work, the workshop air compressor really helps... and knocked the pinion loose with a copper hammer. now i can get on with this build, thanks.

its not peened either

i had vice grips on it and tried a screw driver to jam it up. probably my weak ass bluepoint rattle gun. will take it into work or into a jdm workshop to undo it and rebuild the diff back up

i am doing a 32 gts4 rb25neo conversion and have to swap the front diff centres, i have everything gutted form both sumps except the front diff pinions. thes are really tight, i have been trying to jam it up and rattle them off but no luck.. how do you get these pinions free?

Skyline model = R32 GTS4 Rim Model = Enkei RPF1's Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 9" Wheel offset = +35mm rim fouls on caliper, i was told these rims would fit and i dont really feel like buying spacers. does anybody know what dimensions will fit a r32 gts4?

RB20 is out!!!

started pulling the motor this arvo but was jamming up somewhere... no matter what i tried it would just lift to the same point then jam up and rock back... hopefully get it out tomorrow.

hhahah man why didnt you take the TB and piping out... FUUUU. im picking my injector orings up tomorrow, i could probably re use the old ones but i want to be sure i dont get a fuel leak or fire. still cant believe the snapped cam. @ sifty 33 why dont you check the sensor and the circuit then go from there. im going to be using a 34 loom and ecu, my friend is rewiring the plugs i need off the 32 loom into the 34 loom to suit. im not keen on doing the wiring as ive never wired anything before and i dont want to start with somethings thats already been messed with, plus i need the car asap, if it wasnt my daily i would rip all the wiring out and start with a new ecu and re do it all

i was thinking its gonna be harder than people have said and i have reshimmed diffs before at tafe but after looking at the setup i couldn't see the shim so once i get the rb20 out i will look at swapping the sumps. i was hoping the car would be done at the end of the week but atm its more looking like the new motor will be in at the end of the week, with the wiring left to nut out.

what alterations did you have to make to the wiring harness to get the motor running and the cluster reading correctly?

front barr off, leaving the rad support on motor coming out tomorrow tein suspension clean check those orange flames uleh diff centre ready to swap out anyone got tips for getting the harness through the firewall, wont budge atm

new stuff looks awse, does the haltech 1000 have map sensor? i want to rewire my car cant wait to start fresh with a haltech 1000 and race dash in the future & fresh wiring. im a bit overwhelemed to attempt it now with butchered harnesses.

plans have changed and i am now going to pull the motor and box out together.

i made a good start to getting the motor out today, unbolted the ecu and removed the engine and dash loom plugs, dropped the tail shaft, the clutch slave, the bell housing bolts underneath, the starter, drained the front diff oil. unbolted the left front half shaft, had to leave the front tailshaft as i need some thinner spanners to get onto it, so i will do that tomorrow. removed airbox & all the piping, removed the viscous fan, drained the coolant & removed the radiator and shroud, unbolted and moved p/s pump and a/ compressor to the side, removed the belts, unhooked the throttle cable and moved it aside, loosened the fuel lines to rail so there ready to come off when the motors ready to come out. tomorrow will get a jack under the gearbox and drop the crossmember, lower the box so i can get the top bell housing bolts out, unhook the heater hoses, remove both front halfshafts, drop the k frame bolts a little to get some clearance on the front diff then unbolt the engine mounts and out she will come, hopefully i am not removing the gearbox as i font want to bleed the attessa, i have done a nismo fork pivot previosly when i did the clutch so will just regrease the input and new spiggot in the crank and solid gearbox mount and that will be fine. i also test fit the RPF1s on the front and they foul the calipers and the piece between upper and lower control arm so will definitely need some spacers... does anybody know what size spacers i will need to make the RPF1s fit?