RBish

hahah yeah im stoked with the enkies

nice car man i have a black r32gts4 with neo conversion and i just bought some rpf1s last week... arrggghhhhhh

my guards are rolled. should be able to fit them with spacers and low profile rubber. going to reseal my sump and swap the front diff in this week hopefully.

my new Jland wheels. 17'x9' unsure of the offset, hoping they will bolt up without any issues. they are made for a GTR so i may need spacers... can anyone could confirm the model? semi slicks.... thrashed

well i have the starndard gts4 @ 4.311 rear centre in so i need to match that, think i will just swap the rb20 front centre into the rb25 if i am incorrect somebody please let me know.

just done water pump/timing belt/ exhaust cam gear/oil filter mount/rocker covers today, took the photos before the rocker covers and oil filter mount were back on. i am now planning on using all the stock manifolds, turbo, ecu, injectors just so i can get the car rolling and regoed asap. then collect all the mods and install them in one go and then tune it. other wise the car wont be ready for a year. so all i need now is the injector o rings which work is getting in for me next week, a blue relay, oil & fuel filter. chuck it all back together, remove the rb20, swap front diff centres, re-condish the front half shafts, drop in the 25 then wire the cluster :@ i have also just purchased a second hand set of light weight enkei rims 12 spoke 100% condition for a great price.

2 ways lock on acceleration and deceleration

will the stock r32 gts4 front driveshafts fit the rb25neo fornt diff? cheers

real nice. im doing a rb25det neo awd into a r32 gts4 was wondering with the engine mounts did you use the rb20 mounts and brackets? and how did you wire the cluster in?

would a 6boost low mount manifold 3071r, 38mm external wastegate, fit in the 32 engine bay?

hey people so my r32 got a new sticker the other week so i decided perfect time to start the build. car is going to be used for daily duties and occasional track events. i am doing all the work myself and with friends. my car - my engine - my tools- atm i am just tidying things up and cleaning the metal up. then going to do the 100k service. then start buying and fitting new parts. future mods to come- Garret 3076r external wastegate custom screamer/dump pipe 6boost low mount manifold hks adjustable cam gears hks timing belt 256 poncams greddy front facing plenum nismo mounts bigger injectors hks rail bigger fpr if needed splitfire coils haltech 1000 ecu haltech race dash mechanical diff if you have any advice for planned mods or want to suggest different mods feel free to post... only if you know what you are talking about as i dont have the time nor want your advice if you have not tried it before. as more money is available for parts and more work gets done i will update. nut.

are you sure its an emergency fan as it looks like an aircon condensor fan

it actually ended up being my intake temperature sensor and not the refrigerant sensor, so i need to put a 5ohm resistor across the plug behind the glove box right? now my condensor fan never turns on so i decided to bridge the a/c relay and when i did i heard a clunk and the fan still stayed off. i was happy when i heard the clunk as something is engaging, so does anybody know what the clunk is and how to get the condensor fan working?

the top fitting on my canister has been melted off with a lighter. it looks as tho this is one of the two that goes to the manifold, was just hoping it wasnt the one that vents back to the fuel tank. this could be a reason that my engine is running so rich...

i had only just plugged the interior sensor in when i did the first test so i went for a drive round the block parked up and re did the test again a few hours later altho no wit was dark and i got 25 & 26 error codes so this ok as its dark now and i have found the dodgy blend door actuator. the interesting part is the sensor test has changed 20 25 -23 26.5 this is showing that the plug behind the glove box needs a resistor

my climate control will only blow hot or warm air. i then unplugged the cabin temp sensor and now it only blows ambient/outside air, anyway here is what i got from the diagnosis mode can anyone help? -26 = blend door fault. and my sensors 22.5 22.5 32 -30 checked the blend door and it wasnt moving with temperature settings so i unplugged it and cleaned the plug and refitted it and now the blend door actuator is working. so i think i just need a/c gas.

anyway here is what i got from the diagnosis mode can anyone help? -26 = blend door fault. and my sensors 22.5 = outsidetemp 22.5 = inside 32 = air intake (before evaporator) -30 = refrigerant temp (after evaporator) checked the blend door and it wasnt moving with temperature settings so i unplugged it and cleaned the plug and refitted it and now the blend door actuator is working. so i think i just need a/c gas.

my climate control will only blow hot or warm air. i then unplugged the cabin temp sensor and now it only blows ambient/outside air, anyway here is what i got from the diagnosis mode can anyone help? -26 = blend door fault. and my sensors 22.5 22.5 32 -30 checked the blend door and it wasnt moving with temperature settings so i unplugged it and cleaned the plug and refitted it and now the blend door actuator is working. so i think i just need a/c gas.

shit hot pic, are they driftek rims? watched your vid of burning the bushes out lol. i just hammer them out or use a air ram or if they stubborn cut them out

i will be using the gtr box, cant wait how long do you think parts for these cars will be available

so rad. im doing an awd neodet into a 32gts4.

thanks on the info on the window trims. cool cool, i have a rb25det neo from an awd wgn34 stagea with 84000kms, planning on using the 32 gtr box is the c34 the same as the wgn34?

nice work! wish i could could afford to modify my car that often.

very thorough build, keeping it stock why did you go for the rb25det and how are you keeping the awd? would it be possible to get a rhr quarter panel, window seal that the window pushes up through and the the trim around the window on the drivers door for my gts4?

the ecu only receives input from the o2 sensor once the system reaches operating temp. if the sensor is dodgy its gonna run rich, if you unplug it it will run rich so i dont see the point in that test. get the car to operating temperature hook up a voltmeter to the sensor, a working sensor should fluctuate between 0-5v. ,but could be dodgy injecor, leaky injector seal, dodgy fpr, dodgy maf, temp sensor, vac leak boost leak, dodgy wiring.