RBish

fixed my front diff leak today after work. drained the oil, was still gold after 1 year. i was quite suprised. unbolted the cover removed the vacumm line, removed old sealant, carby cleaned it up all nice let dry, applied blackmaxx, then refit the cover, connected the vaccum line then filled with castrol saf-xa. unfortunately i had to drive home str8 after as the workshop was closing. the blackmax had only about 15-25 mins before i had to fill with oil then drive home. i drove home in rwd and babied it. i was just hoping this would be enough time for a proper seal? how long would you guys leave it to set before filling with oil let alone driving? keeping in mind i have done sump gaskets before with blackmax let it sit for 20 mins after bolting it back up, fill with oil and then road test, and all was good.

used saf-xa for the front diff today

bought my clutch and seal kit yesterday exedy hd solid button clutch, and seal kit <----- i was talking about check it out next pay fork pivot and flywheel. anyone know of a good flywheel that will go good with button clutch????

i dont think the valve is leaking as it holds boost. i dont see how air is recirculating and passing the afm? VTA ~ it has an agressive hunt, blocked ~ idled at 900rpm. yeah flutter is so much nicer i always thought a recirc setup would help with spool. i actually wish i had hooked the recirc pipeup before i blanked it again. with it blocked no hunt, with it VTA aggressive hunt... ? enlighten us all.

as i find problems with my car i want to understand whats going. not just run one or dont... once ive got my trade certificate i want to move into tuning cars so every little piece of info counts

yeah i was asking how much boost pressure you can run through a blocked valve.

nah its a lil sneaky one i imported from japan yeah true

how much boost can you run safely through a blocked valve? i am going to block it off tomorrow so i can run the hks valve and see how that goes... once i have my fmic the stock valve/piping will not be needed perhaps now that its venting to atmosphere is the reason why its hunting so agressively or maybe its a leaky valve... thanks

i have a rb20det running 0.6bar, stock turbo, intercooler, bov. i thought it was set up to vent to atmosphere. untill today i pulled the bov off to find a blanking plate. so would this be forcing the excess boost back throught the compressor wheel? and what sort of damage would this do at 0.6bar? i pulled the blanking plate off cleaned the bov up and blakmaxxed it back on. found boost comes on alot smoother now, but just doesnt feel as snappy and generally feels weaker. when i pulled into the drive way the car started to hunt for idle crazy like 200-2000rpm? when it was blanked it was hunting around 800-1000rpm. rarely* perhaps air is getting in throught the valve causing it to hunt??? with it blocked it had that flutter sound & wasnt a bad flutter with it vent to atmosphere it has the pssshhhhh sound. i have a hks sqv bov,that replaces the intercooler piping to the throttlebody, so to install this i would need to blank the stock valve anyway or buy some inther cooler piping to swap for the oem pipe and that takes it out of the situation. what would be the best option? i find it more fun to drive with it blocked i just dont want my turbo to explode.... what do you guys think would be the best option? thanks

im going to get a solder iron, wires, switch and some solder tomorrow

anyone know where i can get a wiring diagram?

yeah i spose i can cut all the shit wiring out, resolder the blue wire together, then join each eand of the blue/white wire to the switch

just pull them off, then carefully use a plastic blade scrapper to get the double sided tape off if you cant roll it off with your thumbs

i checked mine out and re soldered all the dodgy wiring and found that they cut the blue/white wire as advised, but they also cut the blue wire ???, it still works but the wires to switch are doubled up and looping around and bridging contacts.??? to fix this would i need a new fuse box or wiring loom? im thinking about taking it to a electrician to sort it out. how much would a electrician charge for something like this?

yeah man, the slide hammer of death haha. ill try hook the slide hammer in there and get it out other wise i can cut it out, or bash it out with grease. gonna get light flywheel, cusion button, rear main seal, bell housing/engine gasket, spiggot & thrust bearings, nismo clutch fork pivot. is there anything im missing?

yeah thanks people. i noticed the replacement item is a bush not a bearing? if thats the cased i will have to remove it with the grease packing method or grind through it and cave it in

would love this car. good luck with the sale.

that boost gauge is sweet

someone told me about the grease method but really didnt like the sound of that so i tried my own way, worked well tho i think im going to get a clutch alignment tool and bearing puller... cos not all bearings will be the same ive decided im going to do the rear main seal while the box is out too. i have been driving around with the clutch slip for awhile now, only slips once the car heats up anything and around 4500-5000 rpm it starts to slip and rev out, would this be doing my engine and gearbox any damage? i got another transit job.. this one has a leaky rear main seal, and a ASM box and i have to do it on the ground... fml i just want to work on my car

going to replace my stock clutch, flywheel, spiggot bearing, thrust bearing, and clutch fork pivot. im saving for exedy hd cusion button clutch, exedy lightweight flywheel, and nismo pivot. i did a transit van clutch yesterday at work, to get the spiggot bearing out i drilled a hole in the back and slide hammered it out, can i do the same on my gts4?

i hear these cars have been found and are at northside nissan atm, one got curbed and suspension is all f$%)T

argh this is bull. turbo timer is now for sale $ 50 altho wiring in my rwd witch was succesfull

farkin sik man.

ok so i found the proper instructions online red - 12v constant green - 12v ignition blue - 12v acc grey - handbrake brown - rpm signal black - earth from the timer to the control i got thin - red blue black brown grey white??? from the control module to the 3 pin plug i got thick - blue green orange grey black hate wiring... spanners any day over a solder iron and test light!

cool so i guess ign 1 is on and ign 2 is crank/trigger?