RBC33

I'm after the engine bay fusebox but will give him a message on Facebook. May have made my search a whole lot easier

any parts or anything? fusebox and loom??

wait zac has another laurel shell??

Yeah but proven to bring boost on 500rpm in most applications I've even read somewhere boost come on nearly 1000rpm earlier. A mates mate had one for his 33 and he'd never seen a manifold that clean inside, the welds get ground smooth and polished almost, quality stuff really, and I guess the saying you get what you pay for shines here

If you don't mind spending the coin, 6boost manifolds man, everyone uses them in qld an I dont think I've ever seen someone say anything bad about them.

pretty sure youd go manifold-> spacer-> spring washer-> nut And maybe put some bracing on the manifold otherwise they tend to crack if its a stainless steel one?

Thanks that would be awesome toffy. Yeah I assumed dash loom would be different, I'm going to give Asian auto spares a call as a mate said they get ceffy front cuts in and may have a fusebox and loom kicking around

Also when you's guys say a cut down loom, what exactly do yous mean. Run it through the bay instead of out the guard? Or?

Yeah the dude doing it is pretty reputable. Built some mad cars. DTP Motorsport. He did a f20c datto 1200 ute for a customer, his personal build was a sr20det 1200 ute with over 440hp. $35/h is cheaper than another auto elec who's rate is around $40/h plus consumables. And for $35/h he's willing to do it here in backyard so it's pretty good considering he's not in his shed doing it. And my laurel was originally a ca18i pov spec. As I said his personal recommendation was to get a fusebox at the least, as words cannot explain how f***ed this one is lol.

Yeah i know its come too far now but getting quoted 30 hours at $35 an hour + consumables plus about $200 in cables and crimps to relocate battery to boot is gonna get way to exspensive really quick I'm assuming a cefiro loom would be identical yeah? as for r32 i dont know how much work it would need to be usable. Plugs into the under dash fusebox would be different wouldnt they? If anyone knows of a wrecked ceffy or laurel anywhere in aus let me know. Was the wrecked one that had a bingle at QR but hes sold the fusebox and loom already

So basically got told fusebox is facked, well not completely but to clean it ups gonna take a good 1 1/2 days which = a lot of $$ in labor. Basically advised me to find a new fusebox and loom if not the whole loom just lopped off at the guard so he doesn't have to trace everything. Hating this car. Urge to remove everything and buy an rb ready s13 is high

Hey guys Had a dude come out at my wiring an basically said fusebox is FUBAR'd and it'd take a few days work to trace, replace and fix the abortion of a fusebox to a working condition and advise me that a new one would save me a lot of money with labor and consumables Willing to pay for post of interstate. Located in qld Let me know Cheers Daniel

There's a n/a 31 for sale for 3k up here atm. So considering it, then vlt turbo setup for maximum dose

yeah i got rust around my front and rear windscreens :'(

I think that little thing that comes up might be a "parking pole" The older ef Hondas had them and the Jdm fanboys went nuts over them. Looks to have been a good but man, its so clean I'm jelly haha

Nice man, looks pretty clean! Some good mods on there too once it's manual it'll be awesome

yeah should be good when its done, as i said on a photo on facebook, why refurbish when you can replace Before I respray it, i want it to be 100% mechanically, especially engine and drivetrain wise. Will probably do a dodgy repair job on the bonnet to get rego, drive it for a bit to see if anything in particular needs any attention, under normal driving and hard driving conditions and if its all running smoothly then look at a respray. i'm hoping to do as much body work as i can myself to save on costs for the respray so that will be interesting

So bit of an update, being doing a few things here and there, Survived the gale force winds, strapped my unsecured bonnet down for safety.. survived the winds, the colourbond gate didnt lol Then got all my stuff together for my new intake, ended up ordering a freddy plenum, skimmed it myself at work, had to run a tap down a few threads and die grind all the ports out to get rid of some burrs and it come up pretty good. then while i was at it thought, why not get a new throttle body, so got an 80mm throttle body too Here it is all together, minus aac, cold start solenoid, tps and brass nipples And here it is Test fitted. Gonna get my cooler piping made now, hopefully hear back from the dude soon or i'll go elsewhere as i wanna get it done soon. Also getting the quote on my wiring next week, Gonna relocate the battery to the boot, get my engine loom for microtec looked over, sard injector plugs wired in, fusebox sorted as it was raped by original owner and the fuel pump relay run to the ecu. Also looking at getting a greddy oil filter re locator block with thermostat and the engine block, using a PWR oil cooler i had from when i worked there, and buying some braid and fittings and make my own lines up. Hence only bolting intake down with a few bolts as its a prick top get under there. Hoping once pipings done and wirings sorted i can kick this sucker over and see if she runs

only way to find out is try... i dont know how much power they make but you might get a nasty surprise... my b16 civic with intake headers and exhaust (untuned) made 100kw at the front wheels and weighed 960kgs with me and full tank of fuel in it I Beat my mates r32 gtst, he had 3" exhaust, front mount, more boost, i think a little high flowed 20 turbo, it was tuned and making 190kw at the rears and i beat him by half a car in a straight line.

actually helicoiling is quite common in aluminium, as the helicoil in the aluminium is actually stronger than just a thread in aluminium. Something to do with the surface area of the helicoil on the aluminium. Its not all that hard to do really, go buy a helicoil pack, it gives you a tap, you drill the hole out to the size it specifies, tap the hole with the provided tap and then wind the helicoil in and snap the little tang off once its in as far as you want it. In saying that, if you can change the part as said above id be more inclined to do that as you want to ensure its all drilled and tapped square, and its alot harder to do that when its on the car compared to a drill press or mill.

Ah so that's why my 25boxs shifter hole thing sits fairly close the hole in the trans tunnel

Why would you want no flutter? Best part of owning a turbo car

Do cefiro manual gear stick surrounds fit laurel centre consoles? I'm tryin to find just the gear stick bit otherwise just gonna hack the auto one up.

Yeah the Numbers help, but even if he pulls it off getting and OD, ID and width of the bearing and you should be right to find a replacement from any bearing shop