jhjones

I could open my car by putting the other half of the broken key in the door lock so all I had to do was remove the door trim, remove 1 screw holding the lock and the metal rod that unclips. This was on my R33, but should be the same on the R32. I hope your car is unlocked.

The code is also on the drivers door lock. Know this because my key snap in the lock 2 weeks ago so I bought the lock to the locksmith and he cut a new key from the code. Cost me $25, but he charged me another $15 to take the lock apart to get the snapped key out and clean the lock. He also told me the spray CRC in all my locks because it looked like my car had been underwater. Haha. The locks are like new now.

If your from NZ: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/manuals/auction-410000300.htm

The only difference is sedan and coupe window motors. Sedan window motor won't fit a coupe or vice-versa. Also, from looking at a couple pictures, an R32 coupe window motor will fit an R33 coupe (Don't quote me on this).

I've got where 190km/h would be on the speedo in the rb20e, but I tried again by just flooring it in 5th and as soon as I hit 180km/h the speed cut kicked in. Think it was because I reved it to 6800rpm in 4th the first time and I think thats past 180km/h then changed to 5th. Yes it's slow.

Sounds like your brother finished it off.

Can anyone help me out?

Ok thanks. I believe it is the snychros because I can get in first easy when I double clutch.

Why don't you just say double clutch. Some people think of rev matching as reving the engine with the clutch in so you can let the clutch fast while being smooth.

Hey, 180ks on the car and I highly doubt it's been changed before (engine oil looked like it had never been changed when I bought the car). I did think about changing the box oil, but there is a oil leak between the block and bellhousing, so I was sort of holding that off until the clutch f**ks out. About the rev matching, how does that help when the clutch is in? Shouldn't you put it in neutral (clutch out) and rev the engine to match your roadspeed then change to first?

I want know what the problem is. Is it a worn synchro or something else? Remember it doesn't crunch while going into first. Edit: Also rev matching won't help, double clutching will if its a synchro.

That's what I do. When traffic is crawling like 5 km/h I change to first and it's hard it move the gearstick in there. I guess I can labour the engine or ride the clutch in second.

Hey guys, I'm finally looking to get the ignition trim, plastic ring and light for my ignition barrel and I need to know if S2 ones will fit a S1 barrel.

Hey, I need to put quite a bit of pressure and time to change down to first gear when the car is moving. Is it a Worn syncho? It doesn't crunch while changing down to first.

I think illumination is red/blue.

http://www.mediafire.com/?wpnk6cdrnj87cef

I think he had his foot on the brake.

Heres the R33 manual: http://www.mediafire.com/?wpnk6cdrnj87cef

I got the R33 manual here: http://www.mediafire.com/?wpnk6cdrnj87cef

Just finished doing mine 5 minutes ago. I used a chisel and a hammer on the security bolts and use the chisel to unscrew them. Take your time with the hammering (you don't want to smash your dash) and support the barrel with your hand when unscrewing the second bolt.

About the stalling issue. Change the fuel filter and clean the aac valve. It fixed my low reving issue when clutching in at the lights.

The revs jump when you turn the wheel because the power steering runs off the engine and the engine revs itself the stop it stalling. Same goes for air-con. I'm guessing "SLIP" means loss of traction? "4WD" means 4 Wheel Drive. You must have a GTS4.

I'm in the process of changing the ignition barrel in my R33. You take the steering column surround off and drill those bolts holding it there out. You could probably use an old or cheap small chisel and hammer it on the head of the bolts then use a flat head screw driver to unscrew them. They are f**king strong bolts.

You could try this if you get it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/363010-fuel-level-sender-cleaning-r33-gtst/

Turbo ones are 9 bolt and non turbo ones are 6 bolt.