morlock

I've got a CF bonnet on mine and when I took it over the pits with it on there was no complaint and the car passed fine.....it wasn't stickered though....i was just transfering the rego from NSW plates....but ive been pulled over since and never been had for it.....although my car is gunmetal and it blends in quite nicely. In hindsight though I probably wouldn't have bought one....only reason I got it was because I wanted more cooling with the vents for track days. But cops can give you a yellow for just suspecting that there is something illegal about the car.....the fact that everything i have done (apart from the bonnet) has been very understated..(painted black etc) has helped me a lot when pulled off the road for simply driving.....when they crack open the bonnet all they see is a very stock looking engine bay and they forget all about the bonnet.....I don't have pods, I only have a black R32 GTR cooler with black piping, no polished anything, no bright coloured hoses, a very understated muffler etc If the car is a colour that clearly shows the bonnet then I would probably steer clear of it.

Blowing white/bluish smoke is always a worry! Hope it's only the turbo mate....let me know how you go with rebuild as I am looking at hiflowing mine for more reliability on the track.

Hi Guys, I have had my boot lock badged and have a replacement to go on....my question is, who would be able to do this for me. Is it a locksmith job or a body shop job? I want them to also swap the barrels over so I can use the same key... As always advice appreciated! Thanks!

Hi Guys, I've contacted a few parts recyclers trying to track down a set of standard pillow ball tops for an R33 GTST S1. They would only sell me the fronts as the rears were used for compliancing new imports. Does anyone know of a place to get these. I need the standard tops in order to throw my coiliovers in the bin and get me a set of kings/bilsteins. Cheers

Actually I would eat sh** if someone gave me a valid reason to. I don't know why people are either for or against daylight saving....it really doesn't make that much difference at the end of the day. After a 3 year trial you won't even think twice about it. And Stageagirl.....are you for real? Your "findings" on daylight saving are ground breaking!

Well i bought my R33 in 2003 and it was the first car i had purchased myself. Unfortunately I got struck by skyline fever and didn't have anyone to talk sense to me when i went an saw my current r33. The body kit was cracked in places and needed work, the rotors were warped, the rims had gutter scratches and the paint on the rear wing was starting to bubble. the condition of the interior wasn't bad though which was a plus and it had a piggyback ecu, bleed valve, FMIC GTR intercooler, ceramic HD clutch, full 3inch exhaust and boost guage. I regret that i didn't bide my time more and wait for a better example, but what's done is done and the car gives me a heap of fun. It's a daily driver and puts a smile on the dial everyday. I have spent a small islands worth on this car....and the money is still pouring into it....i don't think i could ever sell it now. I have since fixed up the front half of the car with a new kit and respray, however the boot paintwork is still needed. I also put in an eboost, slotted front rotors, coilovers, hicas lock kit, camber kit on the rear, pineapples, splitfire D1 coil packs and it's had its 100k major service. But it still has a long way to go before i will be entirely happy with it. Anyway back to what people look for when they buy cars.....you could be lucky and get some fool like myself that doesn't care about anything and has already pictured themselves cruising in your car.

Yeah....I entered the Burrows days when i saw them advertising it on the web.....cost a fair amount though....in the region of $400 i think....but was worth it in my opinion. What are the days like now? Must be much more popular and harder to get a place i imagine? Roy: I only have an R33 GTST and was still having a lot of fun amongst the porsches

hey mate....i see you are still not happy with the 32's setup. I've done a fair amount to my 33 since moving over to WA. Just put in a set of HSD HR coilovers, whiteline front/rear swaybars, pineapples, camber kit rear and a hicas lock kit. I also put in a set of Splitfire D1 ignition coil packs and she purrs a lot better now. I had the suspension all setup by Wilkinson Suspension Center here in WA and they know their stuff. corners amazing and the ride is liveable. Im running 6kg springs on the front and 4kg on the rear, firm but not spine shattering. The roads in WA metro are much better quality than in Sydney and much wider.....very fun. When are you gonna upgrade the brakes on that thing? My driving has improved a hell of a lot since the burrows drive days....motorsport over here is really cheap and there are a heap of driving centers/ tracks close by. Anyhoo just thought i'd say hi

The angle of the subframe changes based on the configuration of the pineapples. And i was under the impression that they also locked the subframe into position against the chassis and thus reduce the amount of movement. Urethane gives little movement whilst alloy ones can eliminate it completely. This increases the amount of vibration through the rear subframe but stops movement in the subframe in hard cornering. Also the bushings in the skylines in most areas have little rubber and little movement and therefore don't deteriorate as much as you might think. Be sure that your bushes really do need replacing before forking out the dollars.

Hey mate, I had a similar problem on my R33 when i put in a set of coilovers. Ended up that the lower adjustment was wound out way too far. If your's have separate height adjustment to the spring seat height then this may be your problem. I ended up taking it to another reputable suspension place and they sorted it out for me with a camber kit on the rear and lowered the height more so that I had sufficient downwards travel in the shock absorber. Some aftermarket coilovers have very little travel in the shock absorber which can cause problems. My advice is to get someone to look at it for you, shouldn't cost to much.

Is it just me or is it going to be a bitch getting to the spark plugs? Need another joiner in there so you can get the pipe out of the way.

Thanks SK Will having more preload on the spring cause the shock to be overworked? I only ask this because i was advised by the vendor that "too much" preload on the spring would make the damper work harder. Cheers

Hey guys, I have done a search and read a bunch of very helpful posts (thanks SK!) First a bit of background. I have bought and installed a set of HSD HR coilovers for my R33 GTST. The spring rates are roughly 430 pounds in the fronts and 350 in the rears (i do have the actual rates written down somewhere)...so not too hard but a bit harder than the rates SK uses on his R32 race car. I recently lowered the spring seat and reduced the preloading on the spring to next to nothing....just enough to hold the spring in place. I had an improvement in the ride comfort for small to medium differences in the road surface....however going over deep potholes and speed humps the ride is terrible....i attribute this from what i've read on here to be the car hitting the bump stops. So I guess from this i have to preload the spring more. I thought about starting with 4mm extra height on the spring seat as a starting point. Anyway my questions are: 1) Is it normal to set coilovers up with a degree of preload on the springs for an R33 GTST? (I know this is a very loose question) 2) The rebound is adjustable on the top of the struts and indicates an L for adusting the knob left and an H for adjusting the knob to the right....now i didn't receive any documentation on adjusting the coilovers when i received them....so I thought L would make it softer and H would make it harder....have i got this right? 3) do you think the 4mm of extra spring seat height is a good place to start? Cheers for your advice Morlock

Actually if the O2 sensor is faulty then it will cause the ECU to dump a load of fuel in and make it run very rich. Happend to my car and could feel a dramatic loss of power. However if the AFR's are within acceptable range and the car revs out cleanly during dyno runs and car still makes no power then it is likely something more terminal.

The R32 GTR was reviewed in Top Gear Magazine back in 92. I know because it was my dad's GTR that Jeremy Clarkson reviewed. It was the first R32 GTR to be imported and reviewed in the UK and was imported by Middlehurst motorsport of which Andy Middlehurst raced an R32 GTR in the Saloon car championships and received major sponsership by Oracle because my dad was working for Oracle in the UK at the time....Just some useless information for you

Also check the power steering for leaks around the hoses. Tighten the hoses and bleed the system. This was happening to me and was the result of air in the power steering causing the pump to not work properly.

What State are you in? You shouldn't need an engineer report to remove defects. Simply take it to your local authority with the defects removed and they should inspect and lift the notice if it passes.

3LIT3 FORS3 I would be interested to hear your reasons why not having a turbo timer will "totally screw your turbo"? The turbo timer was conceived long before advances in turbo design and oil lubrication have made it an unnecessary waste of money. It was developed to prevent cooking of the oil in the turbo oil lines which would cause blockages and starve the turbo of oil. New synthetic oil compounds and the removal of certain impurities prevent this from happening. Doing 10 hot laps at the track and immediately shutting off the engine may have some effect, but the occasional romp at the track doesn't warrent wasting money on a turbo timer. As for the crunching of gears. I'd say it was the syncros. This is common.

are all the fuses ok? nothing blown?

if the cat is stuffed then basically the exhaust temps are increased and causes backfiring.

mate you can't tell if the coil if faulty by just looking at it. find a mate with a GTR and ask if you can borrow one of his coils to test. Go from there. This seems to be a coil issue so i'm not sure of the title of your post. Alternatively you could probably find a second hand coil for relatively little money.

oh...and forgot to mention that turbos with heaps of power often unsettle the car in corners with their on or off boost tendencies which will also make u slower on the circuit.

more power can sometimes make you slower cause it's not there when u need it....ie down low and midrange. plus don't the NA motors have slightly higher compression as well? Also the diff ratio will play a part in acceleration which manufacturers take into account when designing NA performance cars. So in tight tracks you may have an advantage off the line and in low speed corners. having said all that I have a GTST and it's a ball of fun.

The way i understand it is that you really want as much sound as possible coming from infront of you. Usually you setup your system so that the low frequencies come from behind you as it is harder for the human ear to pick up the direction of lower frequencies. Splits in front and woofers in the rear with a low pass filter would be a better option.

mate if I was u I would go with what is stated on the NGK website. Most of the people I have dealt with at repco or supercheap wouldn't know their ass for their elbow.