morlock

unless they're proper tuned length extractors you probably won't see more than 5rwkw. plus you'll need a free flowing exhaust including a highflow cat. I'd stick it on the dyno with a computer first and give it a tune to see how much power it's making, then shop around for tuned length 4 into 1 set and retune after, bet you don't get much more power. without the tune, just chucking a set of extractors in will do bugger all IMHO

make sure you use shielded RCA cable and also select an amp that has line noise management built in.....i had this problem using my old Jaycar response amp.,...but when i switched to Fusion the problem was sorted.

You can also get the quick release hubs now that have a locking cap on them to prevent the wheel being put back on without opening the lock....looks kinda neat too. Are quick release hubs road legal?

Why do you ask? Have you fixed the tyre and notice problems with the diff?

Hi Mate, To answer your questions: 1. Intake mods - I was sure it was one intake-related mod only - this car a pod filter and an aftermarket FMIC. Where do I stand? ----> The pod has to be secured in the engine bay, the fmic also has the be secured properly. I don't think there is a restriction in WA on number of intake mods. 2. Gauges - We have four extra. 3 in the dash above the glovebox (Air/Fuel, Exh Temp, and unknown) plus a boost gauge on the left of the dash surround (not in drivers FOV). The boost gauge is easy, can just take that out but don't really want to take out the ones in the dash - Are they okay there, or will they have to come out? ----> The Guages should be fine as long as they're not obstructing the drivers view on the apillar or in a location that may damage someone in the event of an accident. If they are flush mounted in the dash this should be ok. Or even low mounted on the apillar down low in the dash. I have a EBC on my apillar down low near the dash and it passed no probs. 3. General electronics - Turbo timer (will take out) stacker controller etc, looks very untidy and I'm thinking maybe it'll attract attention - should I take everything out to be safe, or just tidy it all up? ----> Making everything tidy is the trick and I removed all dodgy wiring from both the engine bay and the dash before taking mine through. As long as it is all soldered and out of the way it should be fine. 4. Fog lights - has 4!! should I remove them? Not sure about this one. Again they should be mounted securely to the chassis. If you're worried it is best to take em off. 5. Momo pedals Are they slippy? If so then it may not pass. 6. Momo steering wheel - legal size, and no polished surfaces Should be fine, unless your model is meant to have an airbag wheel. 7. Japanese "Drift" gloves stuck over various things in the engine bay... If you can then i would take em off. In addition, my tip would be to give the car a thorough degrease of the engine bay and under carriage as WA pits hate dirty cars and will knock it back if it appears to be leaking badly or if there is a lot of gunk buildup. Mate good luck with it.

Oh...and to bleed the system. Take the cap off the power steering resevior and turn the car on. Move the steering from full lock to lock and look for bubbles escaping to the top of the power steering fluid. Refill as needed while doing this and do about 20 turns from left to right or until no sounds or bubbles are produced.

Mate, There is likely to be air in the power steering system due to the leaks. In the short term simply bleeding the power steering system will reduce or fix the noises completely. In the long term you should fix up the leaks or if the pump is buggered then service it or get a replacement. Good luck.

Hey Cam, I'm already a part of one of those 8 chicane teams. You going down to AHG for the 7th? If so would be good to catch u there. Good idea posting this up cause i think they are struggling to fill places. Were you at the first meeting on 12th of July...Anyway will say high if I spot you. I'll be driving the line down there on Sunday.

Man this is a good deal...low ks, lots of fruit and major service already done....if i didn't already own one id snap this up.....good luck with the sale mate.

Mate...am interested in the bonnet. What colour is it?

i think i got 2 dba slotted rotors for 280 each about a year ago.

If you sucked water through the air intake u probably have water still in the piping. You may also have moisture in the coil pack boots...so check that and blow it out with some WD40 to disperse the water.

yes...the lower springs should fit straight in and the ride height is determined by the springs so if you go lower than stock springs = lower ride height.

Mate, How many K's has it done?

time to invest in some rubber gloves

I am also chasing a good deal on one of these.

ive seen fast GTST's and fast GTR's....who cares? we can all agree anythings better than a camry?

is there no other reason for slow loss of coolant other than cracked head or leaking gasket? I have a very gradual loss of coolant...can't see any coolant leaking etc....the car is coming up to 100k so am looking at replacing water pump and pipes....just hope i don't have a cracked head. There is no coolant in the engine oil and my gasket was replaced recently.

I don't like the K&N filters cause they need to be oil'd to work effectively. Much prefer the HKS range of filters.... $80 for a panel filter so not to bad on the wallet.

if street tyres get out of their efficient operating temperature then you'll be driving on ice...with street tyres they are designed to operate well from cold and do not like to much heat in them....putting too much heat into them will only slow you down IMHO They will be cold lining up for your run so putting a little heat into them shouldn't hurt.

The weakness in the Skyline turbos is in the ceramic turbine wheel. At anything more than 1bar of boost the wheel will start throwing fins off, the heat will kill the shaft and the rotation speeds/heat will kill the bearings. The stock turbo gets out of its efficiency at 16psi or more, it simply can't flow enough air. A highflow such as the GCG highflow will increase the compressor wheel size and replace the turbine wheel with a steel wheel that will be able to take higher boost levels. The larger compressor wheel allows you to make more power by flowing more air within the efficiency range of the turbo. I believe the next restriction would be the turbine housing size and some have suggested replacing the stock with a VG30 single turbo item. Most here have said that 280rwk is the max power to run through stock engine internals but age and condition will all factor into the life of the engine at these power levels. I've been running 12psi for a while now and it's never been a problem. What will be a problem is the tune of the standard ecu. If changing the turbo etc is on the cards, then getting a replacement like a powerfc will reap rewards in the future and get the most of the small boost increase in the meantime.

Good luck with the CAS sensor. Just out of curiosity, what prompted the engine swap? What are you looking to get out of the NEO engine?

Hey guys, I get some major break fade after heavy breaking in my R33. I have slotted rotors and high grade pads. I was wondering if installing Braided break lines will make any difference and if anyone has done this? The car will mostly see track use as it's not a daily driver. Cheers Andrew

Thanks for your help mate. You've told me what i needed to know. I won't bother with the highflow and i'll go the 1.5 way lsd instead. I'll get the radiator hoses etc replaced at the same time but i think ill still get the Aluminium radiator...just cause there is nothing like a nice piece of shiny aluminium in the engine bay to brighten things up. I'll start another thread on the braking q's Cheers again.

"Umm, it's done 100k (probably more like 150-200) and you're not going to replace the timing belt??? You should." I am going to replace the timing belt...just wondering if it is worth getting a heavy duty one or not? "If your coild packs aren't breaking down and causing misfiring then why replace them? I say wait until they die." The coild packs do break down sometimes at high rpm. I want the engine to run reliably at high rpm. "I'd consider doing the fuel pump anyway. Reliability mod. Get a 2nd hand GTR pump." Thanks for this bit of advice. I will add this to the list. "Oil cooler would be a good idea, radiator probably not necessary at current power levels." The reason i want the radiator is the current one is quite dirty and rusted. My heater core has already rusted through (currently bypassing it) and i think it may be only time before the radiator springs a leek. Do you think i should just get the stock one cleaned and checked? "If you are happy with the power level then wait until the turbo dies. It probably will at some stage, but maybe not for a while. After death, then go GCG highflow." Will this potentially cause me to have to rebuild the motor....this is something i want to avoid. I've heard stories of turbine bits getting sucked back up the manifold and causing internal damage. "My R34 has no brake issues but I understand R33's do get some fade. I don't know if braided brake lines help there but I would think that it would be just as effective and much cheaper just to replace the ones you have with the same spec. Do you bleed your brakes often?" Yeah i do get fade after breaking down from 140km/hr to 80 km/hr (rough figures) for turn 2 at eastern creek. but this is probably just the breaking hardware. I bleed the brakes everytime i change the pads.....which is quite often. "Maybe some other suspension work should be considered? Caster kit? Camber kit? HICAS lock?" Yeah if i don't layout 2k for the GCG highflow. I was going to get the Nicmo GT Pro LSD (1.5 way), hicas lockbar and camber kit. Thanks heaps for your comments so far. Very Helpful.