slayer

Downloaded the Japanese manual for the Spec S (got any Japanese mates?) and the piccy for solenoid installation shows the IN line being the bottom steel connection, and the OUT line being the bottom of two plastic connections closest to the body of the solenoid. I am unsure what the top plastic connection does, but its not shown as either connected or blocked off. Hope this helps - oh, and make sure you mount the solenoid within 1m of the wastegate (usually where the stock solenoid was is a good mounting point) to keep good response. Ta Conrad

Good luck dude, let me know if you need any help.. I will keep looking for info for ya, spent a few hours digging around today with no luck... I will download the Japanese PDF language set at work tomorrow and dig through the Japanese site for info. Ta Conrad

Hmm they wouldnt sell one to me... basically told me to go away on the phone when I asked for HiTech stuff (which is wierd as I got my WRX exhaust there and they did a fantastic job fitting it). So I am kinda considering if I go for a Hitech system again that I will just use a performance shop I trust to fit it... but I dont want to get it if its stupidly loud. Sounds like the one you saw didnt have a resonator, that would have been bloody loud!!!

Adam, they MUST have documentation for the DSBC Spec S - its a current model... dont ask for doco on the SSBC, you only need to know how to hook up the solenoid and the DSBC Spec S uses an identical solenoid. Hmm... what a pain in the a**

Unusual.. the gear Ive seen them build up before has been great - perhaps they were struggling to manufacture the quantity required in a short timeframe..

Well ring Blitz australia and they can email you the DSBC Spec S manual

Poyz it IS the same as the DSBC Spec S solenoid if you have worked with one of them... do you have the doco on setting one up (or know what hooks to what?) The DSBC Spec R has that huge dual solenoid box with the in and out connectors labelled clearly. Ta Conrad

The solenoid is the same as the DSBC Spec S ( the single solenoid version) - surely the guys at Cypher or another performance will know what to hook to what? Ive asked Jordan if he can shed any light on the situation. Sorry something that should be straight forward is becoming a drama... we will sort it soon ta Conrad

Adam, did Blitz Australia offer any help? Hmm, just wondering if the two top connections are the same internally (it looks just like a double headed t-piece) and can be used as the manifold pickup and the steel hose connector on the bottom is the outlet?

Adam, who do you know that has one? Did it have a resonator as well as a muffler? My HiTech on my WRX was very loud (people coulod hear my car about 2k's away) but didnt drone and sounded fantastic... from the posts it seems as though the R33 system Hitech designed was pretty quiet.. hmm Kinda like the quietness of the R33, dont want it to be over the top. Ta Conrad

Someone must have one of these exhausts fitted and have some comments... BY BY, Blitz, anyone?

I fitted an Odyssey battery to my R33 for the leakage reason (no fluid, totally sealed), plus they are light and have excellent cranking current. They arent the cheapest though, and you can get 'sealed' batteries that use paste rather than fluid and have a safety vent for excess gas much cheaper - call your local battery specialist and ask about paste based sealed batteries for inside cars.

Hi Adam, I think in the case of units like the HKS EVC its a fuzzy logic unit so yeah it learns your boost characteristics with the end goal of reducing spikes, the SSBC isnt a fuzzy logic one. The gain adjustment is your main way of setting it up to assure its stable - set the gain too high and it will overshoot, too low and it will never make the boost target in the time you want. I guess its just a matter of striking the balance, and doing some test driving with your boost gauge to get it set up right. On my previous car, the unichip boost controller was very similiar (no fuzzy logic, just wastegate actuation control in relation to MAP) and it was rock solid and got on boost quick and didnt spike, its just a matter of getting the gain level right I think.

I know a bunch of you have fitted the Hitech manufactured full stainless exhaust system, and was wondering if you had any opinions on a few things you could share such as: - noise level - how noisey is it, does it drone at all, whats the cruising noise level like? What setup did you go for (I believe you can choose to run with or without a resonator, and a choice of 3 or so mufflers?) - performance - what sort of performance gains have you seen? - spoolup - do you find it spools up any earlier (hopefully helped by the seperated wastegate dump pipe) - build quality - I am guessing its built brilliantly like all the other Hitech systems? - any recommendations on which rear muffler type to use (they have like the bazooka with 3 or 4 inch tips, bazooka with the HKS style 5inch tip or the dual tip oval exhaust). Thanks for any info Conrad

Methinks Poyz knows what hes talking about, go with WG Adam, hows the install going? had a crack at it yet?

Hi Adam, think I found out what the AC/WG switch is - it appears to relate to choosing either internal actuator or external wastegate. You running an integrated wastegate arent you, so I guess you would use the AC setting - I can only assume it changes the way the gain affects the solenoid output (difference in sensitivity of a external wastegate vs a integrated solenoid). copied from a subaru sales website: The Street Spec Boost Controler or SSBC is an entry level, cost effective boost controller that is very user friendly. There are two available boost settings for high and low boost. This boost controller uses as single solenoid and is capable of handling up to 18psi (1.2bar). The SSBC is 1/4 din size and is compatible with internal actuators and external wastegates. Call blitz in NSW, they are pretty helpful and may have a PDF of the manual in english (they sent a mate one for his SB-ID) Ta Conrad

Hi Skyzerr33, do I need to do something with the map sensor to hook up the bleed valve? I just removed the line off the intake piping when ran to the boost solenoid, and blocked off the other line and then (to keep it clean) just looped a piece of vacuum line between the in and out connections on the solenoid. I will get out and have a look tomorrow, perhaps I have disconnected something I shouldnt have? But surely if the MAP sensor was not connected correctly the car would be basically undrivable? Hmm interesting - need to wait for sunlight to have a look Conrad

Blitz Street Spec Boost Controller. includes all the bits and pieces, cabling etc. $300 ono. Conrad

Hi DennisRB30, I am running a straight pipece of vacuum line from the manifold pickup that the factory boost solenoid was patched in to as you suggested, to the solenoid and then onto the wastegate with no restrictor and my boost doest spike and just bleeds off progressively at the top end (probably acceleraterated by the backpressure in my stock exhaust). I think they recommend against a restrictor as well as you lost adjustment resolution on the bleed valve. I think the restrictor is primarily set up for the factory solenoid only.

Interesting - I might try disconnecting mine (I would prefer to do that anyways, I worry it is destroying itself and I will need it for the Wolf3dV4 fitment) and see how I go.. ok next silly question - got a URL to the ECU diags? Ta Conrad

Thanks for the info Damqik, I never actually disconnected the solenoid but I have tried an ECU reset twice (I fitted an Apexi airpod at the same time and wanted to make sure the maps took into account the airflow difference). Ta Conrad

Thanks for the info Jay95R33, perhaps I just have a tuning problem. I will check around for leaks again, but I did remove all the OEM piping and replace it, and then blocked off the return line as you suggested so I think its all airtight. So you have left your solenoid plugged in (electrically)? I will probably be chucking a HKS Hi-Power exhaust with a custom dump pipe (seperated wastegate and ceramic coated) in the next week or so and when the guys fit it I will get them to check it out. I have heard that some of the R33's have quite retarted timing, and also the throttle position sensor can be out of wack and cause problems too so I will get it checked over.. hmm, this car feels VERY slow compared to my old WRX (180AwKw) ... need to get its power output up, but money is always a problem PS - that reminds me, I will pick up an airbag this week for your cupholders, I promise

Thanks Rev, but checked that first - all lines are plugged You riun a bleeder, did you disconnect the solenoid (unplug the wiring harness) when you fitted it? I am assuming its my air fuel mixtures have screwed up as throttle response is shite, but I have also heard the Throttle position sensor can get out of wack and cause the car to constantly overfuel... Im hoping someone can confirm or deny about the MAP sensor... Conrad

Does anyone know if the factory boost solenoid on the R33(GTST) is only that, or does is also serve a role as the MAP sensor? The reason for asking is I fitted a bleed valve (yes I know its a bit dodgey, but I have an EBC coming next week) and was told to disconnect the vacuum lines connected to the factory solenoid and patch in the bleed valve direct with a fresh piece of hose from the manifold pickup to the wastegate. The problem is apart from the added boost the car feels more 'doughy' now and I am guessing its running way too rich plus fuel economy has got even worse (like 350-400 out of a tank when driven conservatively). The bleeder seems to work fine (8 PSI dialled in), but I am concerned that: - as the boost solenoid is now still connected electrically but only has a piece of hose looped back between its vacuum connectors (to keep it clean) it is probably working its tail off trying to drop boost and will burn out (I plan to use it later when I fit a Wolf3dV4 with built in boost control) - the solenoid also works as a map sensor, and is screwing up my fuel mixtures. Does anyone know? Should I disconnect the solenoid wiring, or bypass it or something?? Or does the solenoid have nothing to do with it, and its just the boost increase upsetting things? At the moment I have stock everything except airpod. Any advice appreciated! Conrad

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