slayer

Hi Steve-SST, good to see some of the performance shops getting online to share some info! I am looking at going Wolf 3dV4 'real soon now', once I have my exhaust and FMIC on, but I have a few quick questions that this forum seemed to be addressing: - Can you still use the stock AFM instead of the MAP sensor setup with a Wolf3d V4 plug and play version (or even the conventional), and if so, whats your recommendation (the car is a daily driver, stock turbo, but chasing good power but still good throttle response in traffic). - Why would removing the BOV and repplacing with an external venting one make lag worse? I understand that with a non-recirc BOV the ecu it will richen up on gearshift, but surely that is offset by being able to dump the pressure more effectively, and becomes irrelevant once you remap for it? Thanks again, good thread! Conrad

If you could provide piccies thaty would be cool... at the moment I am thinking I pick up the connector which is the t-piece on the right rocker cover, and route through the oil/air seperator and back to where the t-piece connected to (the return line into the manifold). I was wondering about that other line, the one from the left rocker cover to the manifold - wouldnt it be best to route that through a seperator too?? Thanks for your help Conrad

Hiya Got a autometer 20PSI boost gauge the other day (without mounting cup) in the small form factor, about 53mm 2.1/16 inches. Does anyone know a pod mount that fits these? I am told that the pods around are generally for Japanese pods (52mm or 60mm) and this wont quite fit. Anyone got any suggestions? Ta Conrad

Hi guys, fitting a oil/air seperator (the style with one input and one output, with baffled and steel wool filled internals between the two connections). One question - It seems easy enough to pick up the PCV line from the top of the engine where both banks join into one, but where do I then plumb back to (the same return hose that was connected to the t-piece?), and where is the PCV valve? Is it part of the t-piece, or further down near the turbo? I dont want to stuff up the PCV system, just want to strip as much oil out as I can before it hits the intake. Thanks Conrad

yep, its an interesting question (12PSI at turbo or manifold) - mine is completely stock at the moment so I am keeping boost conservative as I am also concerned with exhaust impeller temps with all that backpressure. Hopefully I will be able to put together the funds soon to put a 3" system on, then I will go for 10PSI. Hmm, might try patching the boost gauge in prior to the intercooler and see what it reads... 7PSI drop sounds pretty serious, I would be stuned if the stock turbo could sustain 20PSI.. One thing I have noticed, even with the bleeder completely open it is now boosting to 7PSI then bleeding back to 5ish, as opposed to 5.5PSI then switching up to 7. Plus it is coming on boost quicker now which is fun I think higher boost low in the rev range then bleeding off makes it feel less impressive but would be safer in terms of leaning out etc.. I will look for a second hand EBC, as I know how dramatic a difference they can make.

Hi, everyone seems to universally agree that 12PSI is about the max safe limit for a Series 1 R33 GTS-T stock turbo. Thats cool, fitted a boost gauge and ready to tweak up a gated bleed valve (as a short term boost gain before I fit the new ECU). One question - I have tapped into the stock in-dash boost gauge pickup on the manifold, and as I had heard I see about 5.5 PSI, then 7PSI above 5500 RPM - thats cool. But I am aware that there is a large pressure drop between the turbo and the manifold across the piping, intercooler etc.... its the 12PSI everyone talks about as the safe limit at the manifold, or before the intercooler at the turbo outlet (I dont think pressure is normally read there but it makes a big difference!). I am concerned if I set it up for 12PSI at the manifold then the turbo must be boosting harder than that, and some pressure is being lost across the intercooler. Anyone know for sure which it is?? Ta Conrad

Did anyone locate who can do ceramic coating in WA? Still hanging for that little bit of info Thanks Conrad

but is the steering speed sensitive (eg reduces the power steering assistance as you speed up so its not too light at freeway speeds) ?

I have noticed on my R33 that once I am over around 90k's the steering is very heavy, even on gradual bends. I am running 235's on the front, but while stationary the power steering is light. I assume the R33 has speed sensitive steering, does anyone know if its programmable? It just seems WAAAY too heavy around 90-110 for high speed cornering ( I guess its calibarated for skinnier tyres really). Ta Conrad

Diagnostic reports ok, and the recirc light comes on (I assume theres nothing else shown on the display?) hmm... I think I might try and find which cable operates the vent and just briutalise it into fresh air mode then put it back together, I REALLY dont want to pull the whole dash off

Where in Perth can you get the ceramic coating done? I was planning on getting my dump pipe HPC coated (via eastern states) but if ceramic coating is a local offering I would be interested in that. Sounds like your car is an absolute friggen monster... would love to see it go through its paces on the track Conrad

Hi BuzzLightYear, thanks for the suggestion - well I finally got time to take the R33 in for an on-car balance. They balanced the rears, they were perfect (they were only fitted and off-car balanced 1000ks ago), and as I never have any vibration through the steering they didnt bother with the fronts. So now I am left with little option but to try ANOTHER drivetrain balancing crowd to check the work of the first bunch of wallies!! I am really concerned they wont find anything though.. Does anyone know more info on the centre bearing mounting position? I have heard it fits in both ways, but is designed only to go one way - how can you tell if this has been done correctly? I am getting sick of this problem, driving is not pleasant as most of my time is on the freeway Thanks for the suggestions though guys

Anyone had the same issue? I think PVA_Glue has, as his aircon switching unit made the same clicks and stuff as mine does. I am content to live with the noises, if I can just work out how to force it into fresh air mode manually - then I can refit the dash

For sale, as a set: - immaculate Momo Millenium wheel (was fitted to car and removed the same day) - matching Momo Sphere gearshift knob - boss kit to suit R33 Skyline with HICAS Payed $660 for it new (and that was a discounted price), looking for around $550. PM me if interested. Conrad

Umm, you can call me on 0419 838 153 if you perfer. Perth only preferred. I really need to get a good condition Skyline wheel as part of the deal though, cause the old one is stuffed.

Hi guys, I picked up a MOMO Millenium Wheel, KGB HICAS boss kit and the matching gearknob last night (looks awesome) but I think I may have to sell it as the girlfriend is kinda upset she wasn't consulted (oops). If anyone has a Series 1 (with HICAS) Steering wheel in good nick they are prepared to part with, I will sell the MOMO parts for a good price. The steering wheel has been on my car for one night, and been driven for about 20ks so its NEW. My old factory steering wheel is pretty sundamaged, the horn doesnt work and the shim for HICAS has broken and fallen out (hence why I replaced the wheel in the first place...sheesh). Let me know if anyone is interested - TODAY if you can, need to sort this one out (upset girlfriends are not a pleasant thing ) Conrad

skyline33 - might take you up on that if I cant source any... I am wondering if I can buy an equiavalent cover from nissan for some other car, maybe the old aussie skyline or bluebird or something...

Any ideas where to look for the grilles? I can trudge around wreckers, but would probably prefer just to buy new ones. I would really like to avoid building a new shelf, I would like to keep the original look as much as possible.

BuzLightYear - when you say a similiar problem, do you mean as I have, or do you mean the centre bearing was installed incorrectly? What was the fix?

Good ideas guys. I will get an oncar balance this weekend, then see how she pulls up. then I will take the car (if still got a problem) to another place and get the bearing installation checked, plus check if the tailshaft is actually bent (the other place reckons they checked it but I am not convinced), or see if they can spot any faults. Thanks Conrad

Thanks for the info guys - some more info that may fill in the situation a bit better: originally, the balance problem was noticable at 70kph (plus or minus a few k's) and around 120 kph, noticed it when I picked the car up from the compliance centre. Once the driveshaft guys replaced the unis and balanced the shaft(and did NOT replace the centre bearing which is what I specifically but it in to get done) the car was disgusting.. anything over 40kph and she shook, I only sped up to 80kph as it was getting too violent. After their second attempt they fitted the centre bearing and now It vibrates at 80 kph through to 100kph.. the fact that the vibration keeps moving makes me believe its down to the tailshaft, and not a wheel balance or other problem but I could be wrong. the tyres are all new on new mags and very recently balanced and I dont look to have lost any balancing weights. Are these guys pulling my chain?

Hi, I just shelled out around $500 replacing all the Uinversals and centre bearing on my tailshaft trying to get rid of a vibration in the drivetrain. It certainly is reduced, but cuts in again at 80kph through to 100kph. The guys at the driveshaft place are now (after spending my $500) that its a common fault with skylines and that some people are moving to a one-piece tailshaft to get around it. Has anyone had any experience with this? How did you fix it, or did you go a one-piece shaft? Another $4-500 for the shaft is not the end of the world, but if it doesnt fix it I will be pretty cheesed off!! Thanks Conrad

Thanks for the info Joe. While i got you, do you know anywheree/anyone I can get a set of good condition speaker grilles for the rear parcel shelf? Just replaced the speakers and the grilles are stuffed (they were smashed when they fitted the child restraint crapola for compliance). Thanks Conrad

Hi guys, fitting a set of new speakers in the rears (and using all he stock mounting gear) but I have one problem - when the car was set up for compliance they butchered the speaker grilles to fit child safety restraints and now they are cracked and stuffed. Does anyone have any direct replacement grilles that fit? either genuine Skyline ones (without holes cut in them! ) or can recommend another grill that will fit? At the moment, the closest thing I can find is a 8" subwoofer grille that 'sort of' fits... Any suggestions? Conrad

Hi guys, I have a click-click-click noise coming from the vents in the middle of the dash whenever I switch aircon modes... it seems to be struggling to move the vent baffles around inside the aircon unit. if I set it to split the air feet and top vents it settles down, but any other setting and every time you restart the car it clicks away for about 20 secs... anyone had a similiar problem? I have the dash off for a stereo install, but I cant see anything wrong (dont know what to look for to be honest)... suggestions? Thanks Conrad