Jump to content
SAU Community

Elithrar

Members
  • Posts

    414
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Elithrar

  1. It may not be the most ordinary way of going about it, but I'd go a RB20 stroked to 2.2L. Their naturally revvy nature (over an RB25) means that the engine would cope well with a stroke, and the added torque that stroking produces (much like when Mitsubishi upped the 4G63 from 1.8 to 2.0 litres) will be great. Plus, you know that you are starting with a good motor, as it is yours, and you'll have forged pistons and rods, so durability won't be an issue. Coupled with an R34 GT-t turbo (@ ~1 bar), it would be relatively unique, quick, and still be legal. It's something that I would like to do to my R32 GTS-t after I get some solid mods into it.
  2. She thinks this is the right number: 9272 5862 You drive an R33, right? What mods?
  3. That's a good idea. Get rid of any bad habits you parents may have accidentally taught you, and whatnot. Alexander Heights? Heck, that's where I live (150m from the shops). I'll SMS a girl I know and get the details for the instructor she had. Give me 10 minutes or so.
  4. If your turbo was stuffed, I'd recommend getting a new one from a R34 GT-t. Someone told me he got his for around $1000, with really low kilometres on it. And you can run 14psi safely, too.
  5. They insure almost anybody. I'm going to be getting 3rd Party (Fire + Theft) with them; $650 a year, inc. basic modifications (exhaust, intake, suspension etc.). I could afford comprehensive ($3200!), but I'd rather pay the price for crashing my own car. And mods are more important
  6. I was thinking about something like that for an R32; though with the stuff black-anodised. You'd think that a metalwork shop could make a copy from Aluminium if you gave them the original plastic one, right?
  7. Hmm, on the same note, would 17x7 (45 offset, front) and 17x8 (35 offset, rear) fit on an R32 GTS-t? ------------------- --------------------
  8. Here I go again. APEXi N1, with the silencer. Seriously, you won't get a drone with them. You can get 'em in either mild steel or titanium (+$200). Around $1200.
  9. The boxer 'burble' is sweet as, though nothing (IMO, that is) beats the sound of an APEXi N1 (even silenced) on an RB. With the sale of the WRX, you could probably go an R33 GTS-25t with a few mods; a close to stock R34 25GT-t or a R32 GT-R. Try and drive at least the R33 to get a feel for it.
  10. Not too sure on the King's, but the Whitelines go for around $220 an end (front + rear, that is, so $440).
  11. $880 is the latest price (inc. installation + freight); quoted by gtrken.
  12. It seems mags like MOTOR and Wheels have got it all wrong then. They also have 89 'MON', so I'd say that's equivilant to our 95 RON (PULP).
  13. Uh, try Import Driver. 7.3 is more like an average condition R32 GTS-4.Most R32 GTS-t's and R33 GTS25t's pull around 6.5 for the 0-100 run, and 14.5 on the quarter. Flat sixes and 14's with a few small mods ('zaust, boost, intake).
  14. Most of it is covered above, but I'll add (or recap) what little I can. Exhaust + Intake (pods need a permit, and a partition to work well), to relieve pressure on the system. Boost controller. Get a few more precious psi's from your car. Fuel controller. Usually, when upping the boost, the stock ECU likes to overfuel. An APEXi S-AFC ($600 new, $350 on ebay). Suspension. Most Jap cars aren't tuned for Australian roads. Consider new springs/shocks if the ones on the car are a bit old, or if not, try a Whiteline handling pack, or even the sports pack if indeed your shocks are screwed. Those are just the basics. Once your comfortable with the above (say, ~40kW gain?), get yourself a FMIC (front-mount intercooler), your turbo 'high-flowed' (essentially, made larger inside as to flow more air/exhaust); rebuilt (or replaced with a better item), a new ECU (APEXi Power FC, Wolf3d, etc.). Don't neglect brakes, either. Decent pads are first up, but a GT-R brake transplant is advised (or a kit from DBA) once you start getting serious. Insurance can be tricky. Most companies won't touch you. Try Justcar; you can get an online quote. Anyway, have fun in your new ride. Drive safe.
  15. I heard that a few people had RAWS certification for the R34 (GT-T) now. Not sure whether that covers the sedan, though.
  16. Nice. I'll be learning to drive with my Mom. Ha!
  17. I've heard R34 GT-T turbos make for a good choice; though I'm unsure whether they share the same flange as the stock one. They can be had for around $1100.
  18. Try SilviaWA. After registering, you'll find a sticky at the top of the Workshop (?) board with a guide to convert your S13 to a 5-stud.
  19. Coupes are my preference, though the R34 4-door is pretty nice looking (search the member gallery for a pic of one).
  20. Try to test drive both of them. Personally, I'm partial to the R32, because I happen to like its styling. Also, think about things such as cost. If you bought an R32, you would have a little more money for modifications. Though R33's still go hard.
  21. No, but an R32 GTS-t later this year...
  22. 15. Need I say more?
  23. And GT-T's are still quite fast. Don't go ricey on us
  24. I wouldn't go for a hybrid model like that. $2500 would get you some decent Tein's (HA's) or Koni's. Or the Whiteline Works Package (sway bars, camber/castor kit, springs and shocks).
×
×
  • Create New...