Elithrar

Or an RB20 S13, with R32 & S15 front and rear brakes, respectively -- which is what I've got planned down the track. Brakes first, for the 5 stud hubs, then the engine. Still works out about the same price as an R32, but will go harder as it's a tad lighter. Fit some sway bars and good tyres, and the back end will stay under control.

How much does that BMW go for? An R33 GT-R is about $45k, and an Aus. delivered R32 GT-R is about $32k.

Get the whole thing looked over extensively; you don't want to start some work and find out that something major has had it. Besides that, though, look at a turbo-back exhaust, FMIC (front-mount intercooler), intake (pod + partition) and some new shocks + springs -- Bilstein + Whiteline, respectively, are popular. Probably some better sway bars, too, if handling is your thing. Then, after all of that, look at a turbo upgrade.

Fire & Theft on a R32 is about $650 a year.

250rwhp from a CA18 would be pretty nice; certainly doable. By the way, anyone got a rough estimate on how much a CA18DET (mid-high kms, good condition) would fetch if I was to sell one (complete)?

Sydneykid had a post going on a while ago about some of the upgrades you can give a CA18DET; they're a tough engine, having an iron block (like RB's). With a strong crankshaft (~$1800), and probably some nicer valve springs, you could easily wind the rev-limit up a bit more. Or get a stroker crank, and make it a CA'20'DET. Now we'd be torquing.

I read something about that; the Spec R had some kind of helical diff. compared to the standard viscous one in the Spec S. Maybe it's just for the JDM S15, though.

Exempt, for the moment, because of the 15 year rule. Might change though, as DOTARs has been considering changing it since early this year. So, find a good one, and buy it soon; you'll be safe once you've paid for the car. Anyway, moving on. Early R32's are getting on, so [get it] check [ed] for rust under the guards, and make sure the agent takes it for a test drive and gives you a detailed report. Suspension bushes are likely worn out, as are shock absorbers, if they are stock. Steering wheels, handbrake boots and seats are the obvious interior problems, as well as a 'bubbled' dash if it's been out in the sun too long. The latter is meant to have an easy fix, of which I don't know the details. Once bought, take it to a workshop ASAP and get them to give it a good check. Run it on the dyno, check the boost and flush the engine of the old oil. Replace all the fluids with new stuff. There was a guide about old GTR's in HPI a few months back; someone here might have a scan, or know the issue number.

That's one of them; I think the US STi has a little less power; about 240kW.

Early '33 GT-R's go from $40k - $50k, depending on condition. About the same price as a lightly modified WRX; but quite a bit faster. R32 GT-R's are about $30k, for Aus-delivered ones, or a tad cheaper for private imports. Oh, and don't be so sure that Subaru Oz will bring the 2.5l WRX here; the Americans get that version, not us. We get the same WRX as the JDM, just detuned for our crap fuel. It's not so much 300kW stock, either; its more like ~250kW (forget the exact figure, magazine isn't at hand). GT-R's are known to pump out more than the 206kW Nissan prints.

With just basic mods, the boost comes on pretty early, and quite linearly; which is a good thing, IMO. But it doesn't truly make power until you get it into the mid-high rev range, so cams would probably be a good option. R32 GT-R cams are a popular option.

Lads, if your posts aren't contributing to the thread, you're just whoring. Anyway, R32's do run 10 psi stock. The stock cooler is pretty small, so getting a turbo-back or cat-back (if you're cheap) exhaust and a new 'cooler should give a decent performance boost. CAI or a pod filter is a gimme, and an EBC is probably a good option for the long run.

Try here, lads. http://imports.motortraders.net/imports/se...n&model=Skyline

It may, and I may also be wrong, but if the car is polished and waxed well enough, it'd give the same effect as several stickers. Plus, it also depends on the 'thickness' of the sticker, and how much this edge faces the airflow. Anyway, even if you have the parts, there should be a part - sticker balance. Having a HKS intercooler, and then 101 HKS stickers ain't the way to go. Nothing wrong with a few small stickers though; but you still need the parts.

I suppose you can heartily recommend Geoff, then?

Should'nt be too hard to make a new placard that includes larger rim/tyre sizes.

Like above, prices in Japan are going up, and, because of the 15 year rule coming close to an end, the prices in Australia will rise as well; R32 GTS-t's will be much harder to obtain, unless you want to do it under RAWS, which will probably be a waste of money.

Brake discs need machining or replacing?

I was definitely thinking at least the springs and bushes (pineapples, camber kit, etc.) first off; and it looks like the handling pack will be a good investment soon after. Not so sure about the shocks yet, as I might invest in some Tein's after I get some funds. From my rather limited experience with Jap. coilovers (and coilovers period), I'm quite impressed. Ride quality wasn't harsh at all IMO.

From memory, according to an older Wheels magazine (GT-R vs. GTS), the R34 V-Spec II does the 100-0 stop in about 40m. Like the above post, it does vary, so that's just a rough figure. Weight of the car also counts for something as well.

General Motors owns both companies, so they usually share cars. Same with Opel; those two companies (Vauxhall and Opel) make the Vectra and Astra for Holden.

Chances are it'd be easily over 90dB; a 90mm system with a muffler can exceed that.

SP23 Mazda 3 (new, $28k), possibly an Accord Euro if you can stretch it a couple of thousand.

But then you'd need an auto-ECU.

You can also try this, guys: http://imports.motortraders.net - brilliant site.