Elithrar

RPS13 (SR20DET; the 2 litre variant) 180SX has about 145kW @ the flywheel, and the R33 GTS-t about 180kW @ the flywheel. Though the R33 is heavier; and not many cars are stock. So it'd be a pretty close one (think: 0-100 in ~6.3s)

Probably need to be gapped correctly.

As much as I am for advanced driver training, quite a few people would use it as an excuse to drive dangerously on the road; as, of course "they can handle their car under these conditions." The threads at both antilag.com and silviawa.com also raise some interesting issues -- and, as always, heavily conflicting viewpoints.

Same here. I like the idea of having ones to suit your engine; RB20, RB25 & RB26. Rubber would be fine, but aluminium wouldn't be overly heavy, yet it would be much more durable. What are the dimensions of these things?

Also, I must add: excessive speed is not always breaking the speed limit. You can be doing 50kms, at night in the wet, crash, and the cause of the accident would most likely be excessive speed. Their (the authoritys') argument is that people should know when to slow down -- but how can they when the driver training is pathetic? I will be beginning to drive in a few months, and the handbooks are pretty vague and uninformative. And you would think that posted speed limits would cover all conditions...

Also discussed at antilag.com But, much like I said at antilag; how can we trust police officers to be objective and not biased? I read about people who say that police officers give them yellow stickers even with permits; say they're speeding when they're not, etc etc.

Yeah, I understand what you mean; the difference between Azeni ST115 235/45/R17's and 235/45/R18's is about $100.

What do you want to use the car for? Street? Drag? Circuit? Sprint/Motorkhana/Road Rally?

I was quoted ~$250 for 235/45/R17 sized Falken Azeni ST115's.

I can't speak from experience, but I've only heard good things about Bilstein. Someone here paired them with a set of Kings Springs (though I'd probably go Whiteline or Eibach myself), and were impressed with their bump compliance and handling (over a set of Tein HA's!).

10psi is the stock boost on an RB20DET.

I smell a Mines_Datsun in the making!

Haha Knore! ------------ Like lwells said; tell us how much you can budget on the thing, and we'll give you a list of stuff you can get.

It's a bit like saying a Ford Falcon GTHO is old, or a early Ferrari. Cars like that don't get old; they mature. And yes, 14 is a bit young to be thinking about something 7 years down the track; I take it you turned 14 this year?

When I get my R32 GTS-t, I definitely won't be leaving it in the school carpark. Too many misinformed trevs and jealous kids to be worth the risk. Lucky a friend lives about 900m from the school; I'll just park it at his.

Times 200 by 1.35 to get the amount in horsepower (270hp). 250 flywheel kW sounds about right, so times that by 1.35 to get horsepower @ the flywheel.

Though 17k does sound like the average price for a 1992 R32 GTS-t, with a few decent mods...

Unfortunately, a lot of people see a cheap ($16000 + compliance, rego etc.) GT-R and buy it straight away, without consideration of the cars actual physical condition or whether they can afford to repair it and/or keep it running.

Set some goals: 1) What power level am I seeking? 2) What kind of a budget am I on? 3) How long do I envisage keeping this car for? 4) Street, Drag, Sprint/Motorkhana/Road Rallies, Circuit? All of the above? 5) How do I want my car to look? Clean 'tricked'? Show car? Over-the-top? 6) What kind of handling mods will I need? New shocks and springs, or coilovers and the lot? Once you've got what you want to do in mind, you can begin modifying your car 'properly'.

Mechanical boost controllers can come in single-stage or two-stage 'packages' (for lack of a better word). With the single-stage ones, you set the boost (via the knob on top), and that's all there is to it. The two-stage ones let you set have a low-boost setting, and a high-boost setting; you can flick between them using an in-car switch.

Yep. Exhaust, pod (with air-partition)/panel replacement, bleed valve (or EBC). Decent wheels are a must-have; more traction and some ever-important style. Springs (~$400)go with the wheels (to remove that 'dune-buggy' effect of putting larger wheels on stock suspension), though some new shocks (~$1000) would go down well if you have the money. All in all, it depends on how much money you have. Take the car for a dyno run to see if anything is not right.

Personally, I think it looks great mounted above the central air conditioner vents -- if the mount is like the GReddy ones, it'll require a little bending to give you LOS to the gauge. I think A-Pillar mounted gauges are illegal in all states (it's a safety-related ADR), so it's probably best not to put them there.

Get some decent springs and shocks as well.

Ah, same here. Just reading about it makes me want to wet myself.

An R33 or R34 T3 turbo are good candidates to replace the RB20 turbo, which lacks a top end. You probably won't need a larger head gasket straight away.