Elithrar

Spend the money on an R33 bodykit, Mike. Use the money to modify the engine; personally, I think R34 lights should stay on an R34, even if it does look good.

Yeah, if you are going to go for 500rwhp (370rwkW), then go the Wolf over the SAFC2. It'll save you money in the long run.

Handling aye... I've heard great things about the Whiteline Handling Pack, which includes upgraded sway bars, a castor kit and a rear camber kit. Bilstein shocks got some positive reviews in the suspension & braking forum, so you might want to look into those too. You should really try to find out what turbo it is before you boost it too high though.

Yeah, Cristian Brunelli is an awesome photographer; he did/does work for Wheels as well. I didn't mind the article on 15 year-old importation, and the track build-up for the S15 was pretty decent as well. One thing I love though, is when they take a car for a drive; like the RX8 they took out into the country. And I agree with you guys about the R33 GT-R; that leather looked average, but the paint in the engine bay and the stripes looked crap.

Ah, sorry, I should've put that that was the price for 17x7 QF's (forged). Anyway, what is the price on 17x7 (or will 17x8 fit under a GTS-t with rolled guards?) Buddy Club P1 Racing II's?

SPEED is the only mag I will buy regardless of what's on the cover. HPI, Zoom, FF's etc. don't seem all that good to me; they seem a little 'amateurish', but maybe I've been reading Wheels too often...

Most Traction Control Systems apply brakes instead of starving the engine...

Or get a strengthened set of gears for the box made up, or one of those expensive dog-boxes.

There's one of a silver R33 with gold TE37's; sex on wheels is all I can say. I believe it's tonygtst's. No spoiler makes it looking incredibly sleek. A silver R33 with gunmetal (good) or gold (better) Buddy Club P1 Racing (pref. the P1 QF's) would look sweet. There are pics of the Buddy Club rims at Donnellans.

T3; and, because of this, it makes a good replacement for the RB20DET turbo (as do R33 T3's).

The link is missing a section t/imp...n&, as signified by the ... bit. Repost it, as I'm interested to know about the S1 & S2 differences too.

R34 RAWS certification is being sorted as we speak, so expect something in the next 1 or 2 months. It'll feel like years Driver, but I envy you and your R34!

2-way (ones that buzz you and/or show the point-of-entry) alarm systems go for around $850 fitted. It's worth it, and you can slightly lower insurance premiums. It almost sounds like they were trying to get some parts from your car, or, perhaps the other black R32 was stolen as well?

Ask SST Steve (or Steve SST); check the WA Whoretown for his proper alias.

There's nothing wrong with working the RB20; sure, it may not have as much off-boost torque as the RB25 in the R33, but it can still go hard. If you want to get some power, the first things to concentrate on are the intake and exhaust. Get yourself a decent cat-back system, a high-flow cat, a better front pipe and a split dump. For the intake side of things, get either a good panel replacement, or a pod and a heat-shield. Support systems need upgrading too; a cheap upgrade is injectors from a Series 5 RX-7 (?), as well as things like an oil-catch can and an upgraded fuel pump. These things will prepare you for the next 'stage'. After this, especially with the RB20, a new turbo is in order. The stock one can't be boosted much, nor does it flow much high in the rev range. Think R33 T3 or R34 T3. Both can be gotten cheaply, and, if needed, high-flowed. After this, a bleeder or (much preferably) an EBC (electronic-boost controller) (at around 12psi). Either a piggyback ECU (Greddy emanage) or a full ECU (PowerFC) would best go on at this stage, especially to stop the engine from running supremely rich (as it does when boosted above stock). Also, a FMIC (front-mount intercooler) should net you a few more rwkW's, and an aftermarket blow-off valve (atmo or plumback, your choice, but I'd go plumback) to stop the boost from leaking. Now, you should be happily getting around 200rwkW's, should everything be set-up properly and nothing is wrong with the engine. Don't neglect to get better brake pads, and think about upgrading the suspension (Whiteline Handling Kit, plus some springs & pineapples). Finally, larger wheels (17x7 will fit comfortably), decent rubber and anything visual (bodykit, wing, etc.). If I've got anything wrong, or missed anything, feel free to correct me.

Ceramic wheel, bolts straight on (T3). Works with both the R33 and R32.

NVH - Noise, Vibration, Harshness. The enemy of car manufacturers.

First off, 1989 GTS-4's are getting difficult to find. There are quite a few threads about the R32 GTS-t and the GTS-4, so do a search and come to a decision. From what I came to understand, the GTS-t is more agile in the dry and gets the GTS-4 on the quarter, with the GTS-4 being better in the wet and at launching.

Oh, and the second one looks like it has lights from the latest Statesman, or a Y-Series HSV. They're too big to be SS lights.

The front lights on the first one look like they're from a Hyundai Tiburon. And both cars are fugly, IMO.

It's also great to actually be able to test drive and personally inspect a pre-imported car.

It most likely communicates all the time, processing information from the rear wheels; whether it is actually perfoming an adjustment at the time is irrelevant.

I was quoted $3200 for an R32 GTS-t (I made my age 17 to get a quote). Which is pretty damned good, as it included basic modifications.

Unique Autosports has the GT-R grill for $150 (unpainted). You could ask them about the fitting procedure.

350Z wheels have an offset of +12, from what I can remember.