Elithrar

Try the DBA RB74 pads; they seemed to get some positive response and go for $120 a pair. Decent pads, when bedded in properly, won't squeal excessively.

Fully-sick-Excel bro! You need to put some neons on it mate, and some fully sick 19 inch chromies. Oh, yeah mate, and get a sweet paintjob, 'cause it'll look fully sick* Did I mention it'd look fully sick? ----------- *I in no way endorse the modification of Excels, chrome wheels or the use of the word 'fully sick'.

Check for worn shock absorbers (normal for a car that age), oil quality/condition (some people have no idea when it comes to putting the right stuff in), steering (the HICAS could be stuffed), keep your ear out for a 'knocking' sound coming from the engine (improperly tuned), as well as the turbo itself. Those ceramic wheels can get a little iffy when boosted too high.

Generally, good-condition R32 GTS-t's go for around $15k. The imports laws are set to change at the end of this year, meaning that it will cost a lot more to import the R32. And I doubt you'll be able to pick up a complied GTS-t for $7k-$8k; a decent example would be about $10k complied (inc. a service and those 'little things').

Yep, the PowerFC has knock detection/prevention.

Oh, don't take this as an insult (it's a question); but what suspension work does Ant have on his GT-R?

Err, back on topic. If you were adamant about running your car without AFM's, there is PowerFC Pro software available, which instead uses MAP sensors. But, like Sydneykid said, there really isn't an advantage/disadvantage in using AFM's anyway. Huge power figures can be pulled regardless. PowerFC's have pretty much everything listed in the first post (knock, efi, afm, speedlimiter, timing), with an optional boost controller (either the PowerFC EBC, or the AVC-R). Heck, the PowerFC is quite well known for having great knock protection.

Voted: R32 GTS-t, R32 GT-R, R34 GT-t/GT-V, R34 GT-R (Nur, V-Spec, V-Spec II). I've grown to like the V35, though I still think the rear styling is out-of-proportion. And it doesn't have the 'true' tail-lights; just pseudo-stove-tops.

Turbocharging it for $2000... I don't really think so. It'd probably need different internals (comp. ratio), an engine management system, and severely upgraded support systems.

Aus. spec S15's are tuned to run on PULP (RON 95). JDM spec S15's are tuned for RON 100. 3 RON is the difference between PULP and BP Ultimate; it doesn't sound like much, but it is quite a difference. If you bought a JDM car, it'd be wise to get something like a S-AFC (as it is for most imports) so you can tune the fuel maps for our octane rating.

I'm a little confused; would ~200rwkW be possible on the R34 GT-t turbo? I know it is possible on the GT-SS, but I'd rather save money and use it for other mods.

A hard question to answer, probably, but what kind of rwkW would I 'max-out' at with a R34 GT-t turbo on an RB20DET with basic exhaust and intake modifications, a PowerFC, cam gears and ~1bar of boost (using stock internals)? Also, with the same modifications, what Garrett turbo would I need to reach 200rwkW's? The HKS GT-SS goes for about $2500 (RRP), and is rated at about 300hp (depending on what site you go to), and would seem to suit my needs.

Also try www.carsales.com.au.

Sounds like a HICAS problem (4-wheel steer). Get it removed ASAP; it likes to alter the back end when you want it least.

A steering-wheel lock or a fire extinguisher (let it rip!) always comes in handy in such a situation. You wouldn't need to hit them; I'd say the egotists would sh*t themselves and drive off.

$55k-$60k? The soon-to-be released EVO VIII, or a R33 GT-R is more like it. I'd say the R33 GT-R, but this is a Skyline forum. Seriously though, test drive both cars first, if you can (I'm sure someone here might give you a quick drive; and Mitsubishi has the EVO VIII) and formulate an opinion based on that. Then you'll never wonder what it would be like if you had bought the other car.

Check out Donnellans; you can get the Buddy Club P1 Racings for around ~$650 each. They stock a massive range of wheels.

I was quoted $230 (each) for the 225/45x17 ST115's, by Donnellans.

Which P1's? I like the P1 Racing II's myself. In hypergold, on a black car. Damn they are sexy. The optional (they are actually in the spare part catalogue, go for $4500 and you keep your 'stock' wheels) Rays 18" wheels on the 350Z are forged, and have a distinct TE-37-esque style to them. When it comes to R34 GT-R style rims, go the real things. They'll be much better quality and you'll look much more credible

Piping also isn't always piping. The surface quality inside the piping can affect exhaust flow. When you put an silencer on the N1, you lose a little top end power, but gain some mid-range torque (according to the APEXi website). It supposedly drops the noise level by 7dB.

After reading a lot of postive feedback, I'd say go a Whiteline Handling Pack, coupled possibly with a set of coilovers from them (either Whiteline coilovers, or Konis'). Tein HA's go for around $2500 (fitted), but are quite probably much too hard for daily driving (according to Sydneykid).

Using the GTR crank and rods is something I didn't think of; it'd be quite a cost-effective option. Coupling that with some forged pistons (either stock bore, or overbored) and you'd have a relatively strong engine for not an incredible outlay (or at least I would think). What would be the price for something like this?

The uniqueness and durability would be worth it, though. Say, $400?

The R34 GT-t turbo bolts straight on, no custom manifold work required. Though, I remember being told that when the guy put it on, his boost dropped to 4.5psi, and he needed an EBC. May not be the case in your situation, but who knows? The advantage of the R34 turbo is that it is newer, and so therefore they have generally does less kilometres. They can go for around $1000.

It'll take me a bit to give you a thrashing at the Plex, then! I'll only have enough left over for APEXi cat-back, pod (+ heat shield), a Whiteline handling pack with springs and the camber kit. That is, should nothing go horribly wrong with the car. Once I get a job again though, a oil catch-can, larger pump, S-AFC, bleed valve and R34 GT-t turbo will be the second stage. I'll get a little bit of experience under my belt before I ramp it up too much, though. -------------------------- Not sure of the same, pretty sure it was a guy. She told me he was pretty good.