fyjosh

Yes still for sale. Will send you a pm

Record your current settings, change to desired settings, reverse if it doesn't work with your tune. Dial in as much gain as you can without spiking over desired max boost. You want as much early response as possible while keeping a steady boost through the Rev range.

herpa derp derpa derp

For sale, Viper 881xp alarm. This was a top of the line, two way alarm with LCD pager remote. Bought this for $800 a few years ago but never got around to installing it. The alarm is brand new, in box, wires labelled and ready to drop in to any car. Selling for $350 ono. Can include shipping for the right price. otherwise located in Doncaster, Melb. As seen here - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8284_Python-881XP.html features include (but not limited to): The Ultimate 2-Way Security and Remote Start Kit Super-bright Status LED High-Output Mini Neo Siren Silent mode Dedicated one-button start Turbo timer Safety shut down Timer mode Complete Engine Monitoring Anti-Grind Engine Checking Extreme Capacity Relay Satellite Tach/Voltage Checking Directed Video Compatible

wrong section buddy.

Looking for a clean r34 25det manual. 2 door only. Vic only. Pm me with any offers. Cheers, Josh

WTB r34 auto Ignition barrel and door locks with matching key. will pay postage, but Melbourne preferred. cheers

check / replace the fuel filter replace all the vac lines clean AFM adjust TPS check the coolant temp sensor clean the throttle body and IACV check for vac leaks through intake replace air filter and so on...

service your car and change vac hoses and plugs etc, and diff ratio for some extra punch.

dont remove the stock intake, ie the big chamber that sits between the throttlebody and the flexible tube (before the AFM). removing it will rob you of precious torque/power, and trust me you have SFA to lose. you will gain annoying noise, humming sound, and lose power... get a pod adapter and keep everything else stock. replace all your vac hoses while you're at it.

no fkn chance.

No point doing wide wheels if your still riding high on stock suspension, it's going to look balls. 'Gtr offset' is just a term loosely thrown around to describe anything in a 9+ inch width in a +15 to +30. If you have a 4 door the rear guards are slightly smaller, meaning a lower width or higher offset is required. I find that a 17 or 18 x 9 +20 works well with 4 door rear guards, with -0.5 degree's camber, and the lips rolled, with a 235/45 tyre.

email them asap, take photo's. leave no time between when you collect the car and when you report it, so they can't say you fcuked them yourself. they have insurance, and with a bit of a push will put something like this to a claim. post up a pic of the wheels where they're damaged

is it definitely a 2.5 from the cat to rear muffler? make a Helmholtz resonator, this could potentially help reduce the drone between 1500-2500 rpm range, it won't eliminate it. nothing will 100% fix the drone other than a GOOD muffler adequately sized, which that Lukey muffler is neither. more info: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102075&page=6

rust repair isnt that bad if you can borrow a friends mig, or even better borrow a friend who can mig. cut out the rust, make a filler panel, fix any interior rust (which there will be, there always is) and slowly spot weld in the filler panel. grind back your ghastly noob welds and paint. this would be pretty easy as its out of sight.

AFAIK the only difference in the de / det setup is the knuckles and struts, eyelet vs fork type. (plus brakes, diff, hicas, traction control(?) etc but this won't matter to you) De will usually have non hicas r33 style rear cradle with (mostly) all r33 bolt-ons. if you have non hicas De (r33 type eyelet mounts) you will want non hicas knuckles. some De r34's come with the Det fork type knuckles btw, so get your head under the car and see what you actually have.

Knuckles are different and hubs should be the same. yes you can swap them. You will also need to consider hicas vs non hicas when looking for donor parts.

If you're going to the trouble of cutting it up and welding etc, make a proper 2.5 inch mandrel bent system with a good muffler. If you want to keep it cheap just use lobster back bends, but do them well and it'll be just as good for the application. Ps, a r34 exhaust won't fit an s13, not even close afaik.

was this the one that a bunch of aboriginals used to hold up a few places? good to hear you got it back

Woops, I started writing that post above 5 days ago lol forgot to hit refresh, sorry. It was in response to the last post on page 2. You should have it set to approx .45v closed, and it should read about 4.xx to 4.2v ish at WOT.

It would have taken less energy to Google it. Throttle position sensor.

leave the wheel in, without it your boot floor is non-existent. leave your back seat in, because it weighs 2 fkn kilo's.

You should just fill the dip with concrete or bitumen, and you can fit in a steel pipe in the lowest part to retain water flow. Depends how large the low area is I guess.

quality tools do the work for you. mallet and good spanner, or breaker bar, impact wrench etc will get them undone with ease. good lubricating spray (not wd40) will also help, but i've never needed it personally.

very easy fix, sandpaper and spray can.