fyjosh

superben, did you watch the video? the annoying video guy used a cigar

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMok2y05jNE smoke test it, see if you can find any leaks.

and jap de-registration forms.

FAST vicroads

i have used 6 heat range (bcpr6es and bkr6e etc) and they never ran well enough in N/A. i also dont see the need to gap down to .8mm with N/A unless you have ignition issues elsewhere.

Bkr5e.

what voltage did you set the TPS to at full closed? and (apologies if i missed it) was this auto or manual?

i dont see how this part of the chassis has enough flex to warrant a brace. its not like a cage that braces all 4 corners near suspension pick-up points (or at least tie the rear 2 corners to the centre of the car) i see this brace doing nothing, and i was under the impression it did just that.

they can be reused.

They're not real te's, this car deserves better

I wouldn't run off and but another set of coilpacks just yet... You can test the coilpacks and the rest of the ignition system, and check all the other stuff I mentioned first

Well, I don't think so, check the service manual

Weak spark could still be to blame. Aftermarket coilpacks are all shit, including splitfires, and they're very often faulty fresh out of the box. I would clean or replace the plugs, gap them properly, reset the ecu.

Measure the diff gear backlash and replace shims where necessary. Replace the oil. Although you could just be low on oil, it's best to do the job properly and check the clearances as the gears and shims wear over time. The pinion bearings may need replacing also, this is a bit trickier.

you would be getting 4 gears if that was the case, overdrive acts as the 5th gear. the a / b solenoid's are probably faulty.

haha leave the box in! much better with it in, feels 10% better with the big box rather than a 90 degree joiner. thanks iseekool

#@iseekool thanks - the link is a good read, i'll be reinstalling the larger box tomorrow to see if it does increase the torque slightly (or my help with fuel economy, which is fkucing shirthouse for an NA) as i too ripped that large box out to clean up the engine bay.

the smaller box, hanging lower towards the airbox is a Helmholtz resonator, leave that on otherwise the intake is going to hum a very annoying note, it sounds shit without it. you can remove the larger box, replace with a 3 inch 90 degree silicon joiner. you'll need a bit of 3inch tube to sit inside the remaining plastic intake as a solid base to clamp onto (like a solid joiner between the silicon 90degree and the plastic intake)

did you get an alignment after installing the coilovers?

I was referring to the s13/14, r32/33 style diffs with the abs ring on the pinion shaft.

gtt's come with helical diffs correct? I believe they cannot be shimmed like a viscous diff.

with the abs vs non abs situation, you should be able to swap over the component flange (pinion flange) between the diffs to suit your car. as in, abs car installing a non abs diff, swap in your abs flange with the abs ring (with care taken to marking and torquing the flange and nut back to where it was previously to keep the same pinion preload) ? you would need to fabricate a bracket for the abs sensor, and make some sort of dust cover for the pinion oil seal, but it sounds like it would work. in fact I was hoping to do this myself in the coming weeks. can anybody confirm this? ps sorry for the hijack

thanks for that. I found what I was looking for now anyway.

WTB r33 LSD 4.363 Diff, in Melbourne. Thanks

I have an s13 r200 LSD diff that I was hoping to swap into my r34 open centre housing. The r34 currently has an auto open centre 4.363, and I want to keep the 4.3 (the s13 diff has 3.69 gears). I have heard conflicting info - Can I use the s13 centre in the r34 housing, and can I use my r34 4.3 crown wheel with the s13 centre? I have heard some s13 centres have 10mm crown wheel holes vs. r34 12-12mm(?), and I cant find any reference to this diff centre/housing combination on here. Please share if you have any info. Thanks Josh