fyjosh

haven't had time to pull off the door card and fix it. I assume the vibration caused the bolts to loosen, this has happened before in my crapshack S chassis cars. I'll take a photo when it's all done and fixed to give you an idea what it all looks like. should be simple. thanks again for the idea

#@suwidji Turns out that what you said about the window coming up in an angle was EXACTLY the issue. I pulled / lifted my window and it has massive play up/down on one side, like its not bolted down to the rail. 20mm movement on one side so I assume this is the only problem. Thanks!

Haha thanks. 4doors have window frames, so it's not exactly the same issue but it could still be misaligned. I'll check that out, thanks for your input.

thanks, I'll try greasing the tracks and anything else inside. I don't want to lose the auto up / down feature, just the feature that rolls the window back down to 3/4 if possible.

Hello SAU Car: r34 1999 4 door rb25de Issue: When I use the auto 'full up' switch on the drivers window, it will roll back down to 3/4 up 90% of the time. Is this a safety feature for arms or stuff stuck in the window path when the auto up is triggered, and my window somehow thinks there is an obstruction? (there is no obstruction that I can see) Is there any way to turn this off? (eg cut some of the wires?) I have attempted to search this issue with no success. Thanks in advance Josh

hey d_Liberate, the group buy still going? I'll also take a set (r34 rb25de/det) I don't have the YJ part # on me though. only issue is... its easter weekend and banks are closed. couldn't go to a bank to pay until at least Tuesday

unfinished project

FOR SALE: 1993 sr20det red top manual $6000 ono Rebuilt motor, new rings, gaskets, and bearings approx 20k kms. Walbro fuel pump 500hp New windscreen New brake pads front New z32 fuel filter Pioneer 6 x9’s in parcel shelf Aftermarket head unit New sway bar link bushes New injector seals GKtech steering lock spacers brand new exedy lightened flywheel brand new exedy Heavy duty button clutch Brand new clutch master cyl 3 inch exhuast (GKtech dump + front pipe, 3 inch high flow cat, custom cat back and twin pipes) cusco coilovers (front only) height/camber adjustable Twin thermo fans with digital controller Apexi Pod filter welded in rear strut brace Whiteline Front strut brace subframe locking collars custom 1 piece driveshaft Non hicas rear subframe LSD diff Car has good power and handles well. Car was used as a daily until I upgraded to an r34, serviced every 4-5k with quality oils and filters. Body is a bit rough in a few spots, nothing out of the norm for a 180. Drifteks in picture will NOT be included, some spare wheels will be provided. REG included till March 2013. No rwc. $6000 ono Contact Josh via msg / call on zero-four-13 103 645

Hi I was driving my brothers r34 rb25de neo after servicing it and replacing / fixing his dead coilpacks. Driving the car back after doing a service, at operating temp I noticed it had dropped to zero oil pressure and shut the car off no more than 15-20 seconds later (was driving in heavy traffic in a no stop zone) pushed the car into an alley and parked it. I noticed a whining/very high frequency tapping/rattle noise from the front quarter of the engine, which sounded like the oil pump, or oil pickup starving, or very early sign of bearing failure. it was NOT a serious bearing rattle as i have experienced this before in different engines of all kinds and its pretty easy to notice. Noise occurs while engine is at operating temp (or close to it) and not while cold with the thicker oil. oil pressure still shows normal when running, (high on cold, 2.5-3kpi on OT). engine is only at 110k kms. i have not run the engine since, in the event the bearings are dead. hoping this gives enough info for somebody to lead me in the right direction in terms of what to check for. Thanks in advance. Josh

WTB 1 or 2 single stock rb25de NEO r34 coilpacks. located east of Melbourne, but will travel for pickup. pm with details. thanks, Josh

WTB Tyres 215/45/17 or 205/45/17 ASAP Melbourne area, east side preferred. Thanks Josh

just pick up tools as you go. assuming you have all the standard auto related tools, i would get: angle grinder, will change your life. Mig welder, which will make you want a Tig welder... drop saw. a good vice. weld stuff and learn about different materials. nobody welds stuff good for ages, if somebody tells you otherwise they're talking shit. my first welds were terrible lol. when you start learning about welding, whole new oppertunities will open up for you in terms of making your own parts, braces, cages, everything. all i can say is go your research into what type of welder you want (basically only Mig or Tig) and how you should sue it and what to use it for. speak to some members who are know to be big fab specialists, being an NS member i'd refer to str8e180 and other influential members for advice. it will help you in the long run and i know a lot of people in the trade will be more than willing to give advice. good luck with it =]