Captain Kermit

Well, a deposit is generally a non refundable payment that you give to someone as a guarantee you'll come up with the rest eventually. I wouldn't be giving it back either. You haven't said what splits the other places are giving you. If they're giving you lower quality splits then getting the dynamatt for $150 isn't a huge bonus. Could get what Frankies offered you +a Dynamatt bulk pack (enough for both front doors+a fair bit of leftovers) for $1200. If this other place is offering you splits from Alpine or any of the other big names........ I'd take up Frankies offer.

Got a mate who got given his grandparents AU Fairmont after they towed a caravan around australia, and owning it for about 8 years of daily driving before the trip. he got it at 350k's, almost up to 400 now with just basic servicing and still going strong.

If it must be a V8, I'd go the Commodore, but if you're willing to drop that requirement, the Ford. The LSx engines shit all over any ford V8 under $15,000, but the Fords are better in every other way. Auto trans cooler is a must on any tow car, but especially a BA Falcon, they're known to shit themselves without doing any towing. I'd be trying for a wagon too if you're after versatility. I owned a VH wagon (1982) and in between selling it and being able to drive my current car (1998 Caprice, 5.0L) I drove my mums VT wagon. If you're gonna have a Commonwhore/Foulcan get a wagon, it is 1,000 times better than a sedan as far as practicality goes. It's one of the reasons I'm selling the Caprice in favour of a Stagea, that and I'm sick of driving auto's and Commonwhores (owned 3 Commodores over the last 4 years, and helped various mates with all of their Commodore related issues.) PS pump is a known issue on 3rd gen Commodores, but it's not a huge deal. Mum's got replaced around the 180,000K mark, up to 220,000k's now and the new one has started leaking. It'll go another 100,000k's with regular topping up Most Commodores tend to leak a bit of oil too, so if you get one keep an eye on all fluids, although that's a given on all cars.

Figured that much, but NSW is a big place. Wondering how far I'll have to drive if I'd like to have a look/test drive, but didn't wan't to phone the number at this late hour.

Where is the car located?

I echo this sentiment exactly. And who cares about swearing? I curse like a sailor at work, why is it different for police when they're in the privacy of their HWP car?

After a couple of minutes on google I can't see that HU anywhere for less than $850. Sounds like a go-er to me. About $1150-$1200 worth of gear from a local, reputable dealer for only $1,000.

You need to go into more detail on the install and what's being used. Vibe Lite Air have an RRP of $399, so that leaves $600 for the HU and installation. They scored very well in a recent review, Damon Dupriez had this to say: Will they be sound deadening/sealing the doors?If so you'll need to consider that the Dynamatt used on the front doors will probably run $100-$200 depending on how much they use. Will installing the tweeters in the sails require any custom work (fibreglass etc.)? If so, that adds to the complexity of the install and the time taken, so more money there. What headunit are you getting for that price? SingleDIN DVD player units run anywhere from $300-$1500. More details. As for upgrading your rear speakers to stay level with your fronts, no. When you're the only person in the car fade the rear speakers out so they aren't making any noise, only fade them back in if you have people sitting in the back. No one can tell you if you're paying too much if you don't tell us what you're paying for.

Can't believe pioneer don't have separate wires for amp and antenna on their high end units. Most brands use solid blue for antenna and blue with white stripe for amplifier so that the antenna is down unless the radio is on.

Colour: Reubens Mica (Burgundy) Wheels and Tyres: VT Calais Internationals, Kumho KU31's 7 months rego 120,000km's Located in Lake Macquarie, 20 mins south of Newcastle CBD $7,500 ONO Contact Mitch on 0402493044 or email me at mitchedwards@exemail.com.au PM on here is fine too. Car is a repaired write off, with a very sketchy repair done to the front left quarter panel. Doesn't stand out until you're up close, but it's annoying. Also has a mark where I guess it's been keyed, previous owner has semi-successfully daggerlined it. Is noticeable when you're near the car, but you don't noticed it at a glance. Have a heap of pics. Kumho KU 31's about 6,000k's old, still have heaps of tread. engine doesn't leak or burn any oil, has been changed once when I got the car and once a week ago. About 1 year and 7,000k's between changes, both times with Penrite HPR 15w/60. Only non standard items on the car are the front speakers and wheels. The car was sold to me with Sony Xplod speakers and I couldn't bear to leave the crappy things in there, so they were replaced with some Jaycar Precision Response splits. Once voted best splits for under $200. Wheels were the closest thing to standard I could find at the time, seller wanted to keep his SV5000 rims. Selling the car to buy a Nissan Stagea. I'll miss the leather, but want something that hugs the road a little better. Interior pics are old, but exterior pics where taken this afternoon. Email or call me for more photos, will only let me put 10 photos up.

Bump for the new week.

Don't let them use their repairer. Tell them they are responsible for their clients damage and you want it repaired at your repairer, and want nothing to do with their chosen repairer. Compare their repairer and your repairer's quotes, if there's a huge difference get your repairer to go to bat for you claiming it wouldn't be possible to do a proper job for the price their company is charging.

If you fail and they upload the results to the RTA then you have to go back to the same place. If they don't upload the results then you can go somewhere else. 9/10 places upload the results. If they've given you a written list then you're boned. If you want a dodgy pink slip you need to plan ahead

Sorry, by luxury options all I really meant was sunroof/self closing boot. I don't want the touch screen climate control, specifically after a car with the 3 single DIN slots. I'm a car audio enthusiast first and foremost, and have plans for those spots

Looking for a Stagea to be my first Japanese car. Looking for an RS4S, if it's been converted to manual I'm not interested. Will pay extra for Dayz kit/luxury options. Prefer non snow pack cars. Low k's are good, but not a necessity. Located in Newcastle, NSW. Will travel for the right car though. Budget is decent, but the price I'll pay all comes down to the car. Also, don't want the touch screen air con/climate control. Would like to have just the 3 single DIN slots. Mods are okay, as long as you keep in mind spending $2,000 on mods doesn't increase the value of the car by $2,000. PM me, post here or email me at mitchedwards@exemail.com.au and I'll get back to you ASAP.

Quick update, I walked away. The rust, door leaks and the water feature in the spare wheel well were enough to turn me off. Going to try and find one on here or import my own.

Turns out is has 1 reverse light, the other thing has a red cover over it though, so... not a fog light? Caulk was hiding rust, dealer had the old "nothing to hide" trick happening and didn't mind me scraping it off. Didn't get a good photo of the drivers side, but it's basically identical to the pass side. I've got a few boilermaker mates, one of whom is insanely neat, so shouldn't be too bad as long as you guys think it'll retain it's original strength after the repair. Test driving it on Monday, and going to see if I can get a mate who has owned a few imports over the last couple of years to have a look. His chaser has similar frameless windows so hopefully he'll be able to identify where the door seals are leaking.

i'll grab some more pics on my way home from work, and investigate the reverse/fog light situation while i'm at it. If the strut towers have been dodgied is it worth repairing?

Hi guys, after owning 3 different commodores over the last 4 years I've decided to try something new. The S2 RS4 stag seems like an alright choice, RB25DET, AWD and I found a 5 speed one. From my limited knowledge I've found that the stag I'm looking at is a 5 spd RS4 with a Dayz body kit and without the luxury options and with 157,XXX K's on the clock. Whether the kit is factory or not I don't know. I took some phone camera pics of areas of concern that I'm not sure about, and have a few questions about availability of certain parts that I'd like to repair/replace "custom" parts with factory items. Overall the body appears to be in good condition, with a small crack in the CF part of the front lip that could be repaired to about 90% with little cost. Boot and door hinges all appear to be rust free, though there is silicone under the 2 of the door hinge nuts which concerns me. The standard CAI (which I think looks pretty snazzy and probably works well, judging by photos) has been replaced with a honking great pod filter, with no heatshield/air intake at all. I'd like to replace that with the standard panel filter+CAI, is it easy to find this part? Are there any cars that share this part (R33's?) I could look for? Paint is a bit sketchy, but it's the factory yellow colour and looks like it's been in the sun all it's life, so fading is to be expected. The front grill appears to have been replaced with ricerbarn mesh with an "RSFOUR" decal sprayed over it. Can something like this: http://www.ebay.com....#ht_3287wt_1139 Or this: http://www.ebay.com....18#ht_500wt_922 Be fitted to any series 2 C34 Stag? Are door seals easy to find replacements for? The drivers door seal is shagged harder than an Ipswich prostitute. What are my options regarding exhaust? I'm used to V6/V8 engines, this boosted inline 6 business is very new to me. Anyone have any recommendations for somewhere to go in Newcastle? So, aside from those questions, what is the general consensus on value? I feel the 157K's is quite believable given the level of wear on the drivers seat, and the high (compared to other Stags) K's should drop the price by quite a bit. The dealer has $14,000 on the sticker, but $12,000 on Carsales. Here are pics of the strut towers, is the caulk normal and is the engine bay of these cars usually so faded/nowhere near the exterior colour? With the Commodores I've owned generally the engine bay is the same colour as the exterior, although not as carefully laid/polished and is generally going bad due to engine bay heat. Is this fading from engine bay heat, or just weird and a sign to stay away from the car? And is there any way to tell if this is a genuine RS4 using the details on what I'm guessing is the build plate? Sorry for the rambling, I'm still learning what to look out for with a completely different car to what I'm used to.