alexj

Turbotapin don't let them rebuild the diff, they don't know what they are doing and will get it wrong. Pick up the pieces and find someone else or worst case do it yourself.

you could look them up on the wiring diagram but its easier to just unplug the blue relays until the circuit you are interested loses power.

There is a connector to unplug the ignition switch from the wiring harness about 4 inches away. Unplug it and see if you still have acc powered on, if you do its the relay thats broken. Otherwise its the switch. On the bottom of the ignition barrel is a tiny screw, undo that and the switch with the wires attached comes apart from the barrel. When you have it out of the car you test the electrical switch itself.

Also the haltech and CAN analyser need the same byte order aka bigendian/littlendian setting. Confusingly this setting can sometimes also be labelled motorola/intel.

You may be mixing up the serial uart baud rate with the CAN bus speed. The haltech and CAN analyser need the have the same CAN bus speed (1mbs) and the CAN analyser and the Dash need the same serial baud rate.

I have tested the front torque gauge on the bench, the input from the ATTESA ecu is 0-5v. There are four terminals. As suggested above there is a fixed 12v across one pair of opposite screw terminals and the "sensor" 0-5v and sensor ground on the other two terminals. The copper track on the plastic "circuitboard" leading to the sensor 0-5v terminal is labelled "ETS" from memory (on the R32). The calibration units for the display on the ic7 dont matter really but you could use 0-50% or 0-288psi on a r32. If its a r33 then it would be 10-50% or 25-288psi because of the minimum pressure they run (that i guess isnt shown on the gauge). Based on my tests the front torque gauge meet doesnt totally accurately reflect the front wheel torque or centre clutch pressure in some conditions like the "fast start" behaviour when stationary, when the guage doesnt show that the centre clutch has been activated. But its close enough unless you are data logging for the track in which case drill/trap a pressure sensor on the back of the transfer case.

I tested the rollover valve in mine, and maybe unsurprisingly after 30 years it wasnt functional so i put in a motorsport one. Until then, for as long as i had my car, it had the canister removed and a bolt blocking the pipe that went to the canister in the engine bay. I hadn't checked and it didnt cause any noticable problems. It was pressuring the tank though.

I have old school-ish AP Racing CP5555 on mine, looks a bit period and they do the job on track, but not a great road car option imo. On the early 35 brakes are 380mm which is a better option, still tight on 18", needs te37 or similar with lots of clearance. So those would the ones to go for i reckon. I bet there is some kind of man maths i can come up with that the r35 would be better for the road that the Alcons; service parts, brake pad choices, road style dust boots etc. But mainly, massive gold brakes ftw.

Just to add to confusion, I think ATI had their part numbers on their website back to front for the R33 vs R32. Saw this info on a Facebook group iirc, a US drag racer noticed the error when he was figuring why he kept throwing PAS belts. ATI confirm the error so they may have fixed it by now. But there still may be duff info out there based on their old catalog. You can use the info from Ross that BK shared to check it before fitting. I have an ATI r32 pulley on my 32 but I use a 33 pas pump, so i should have fitted the ATI r33 pulley, and they aren't aligned but i have almost stock rev limiter so i dont seem to throw belts...

Reassuring to hear you rate the hioctane sump Duncan - no one in the uk has heard of them as far as i can tell. The RIPS sump is shallow and safely tucked and it does seem to fix the straightline oil surge you get with a stock sump but I was still getting oil pressure drops in long, high g, high rev left handers. My ecu has a very conservative oil pressure cut set up so I've not had a failure with the RIPS sump yet, but I does hit the ecu cut occasionally once the oil's hot and the boost is turned up. The Trust sump actually seemed to work better in that respect but you could see it was just a matter or time until you run a sausage curb at the wrong angle and rip it off. Hopefully the hioctane cast sump is a good mix of the two; decent capacity, a bit deep, with flappy gates.

Since its being discussed, here's a few pics of the hioctane sump extension going on my car this week to replace the RIPS sump it had. Hoping the swing gates and bit of extra depth will control the oil surge a bit better. To trust sump was worked perfectly by too little ground clearance for me in the long run.

I had one r32 abs pump leak. Vacuum bleeding seemed the trigger for that but the seals get cooked from the heat and age so it probably in the post for everyone. There should be a decent supply of not so cooked abs pumps though if you want to replace like for like, just get one from a z32 and deal a little some wiring. The z32 has the pump in the boot so doesn't get cooked.

I have a gtst which came with abs and that started to give an inconsistent brake feel so i took it out. And switched to the smaller non abs master cylinder to reduce the chances of snatching the brakes and locking up. I haven't driven it hard enough to really notice the difference other than that pedal is the same every time now. My 32 gtr factory abs worked well on track until it didn't. Failed in the wet on track and put the car in the tyre wall. I took the abs out and couldn't build any confidence in the brakes unless it was totally dry. So i put the bosch m4 system in and its immense, unlike any road abs i've tried. The bosch m5 is now way too expensive. But there is the option of retrofitting the bmw mk60 system which is available in three and four channel versions and the right model can be reflashed to the vehicle parameters of your choice.

I've got a new sequential gearbox on the way. it has the holinger/gm26 spline style input shaft. I currently have a osgiken twin plate with a sprung centre which works nicely. Osg used to offer this clutch as a special order with a centre for the holinger spline. But for some reason osg aren't responding at the moment. Which in japan usually means "no". osg make holinger spline unsprung centre for their less friendly triple plate clutches. But i wanted to stay with a sprung centre. Does anyone else make a spring clutch available with a holinger centre? (This is for a 400kw r32 track car)

It sounds like 4wd "wind up" you get when front and rear diff ratios are different. If the ratios are the same, then do the wheels have the same rolling radius front/rear? If they were a long way out you might get something like this. Also, would be crazy, but... that front diff looks pretty dry, you are putting oil in there aren't you?