MegaGTS4

Hey Rick your R32 looks wicked :wassup: , I cant wait to see it in gladstone one day if your down this way one day... My clutch is silpin again and i wont have it fixed until after new years... i only fitted a new one 9 months ago too... maybe i shouldn't launch it so much.

He he, check out the link now it has turned into a real forum brawl...

yep it sure does look that way

The sportivos have 100kw at the wheels, and the 2zz-ge engine is designed by yamaha with VVTL-i, and the one in question had mods done to it, but still... I would never have lost to a N/A car, maybe a lambo or a ferrari...All i can say is the guy in the skyline got OWNED by a corolla...

Someone lost to a toyota corolla sportivo in a R32 GTS-t, so who is the clown? Here is the thread: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=1486 Damn what kind of a name is the Skyline going to get after a NA four can beat it?

R.I.P, Sincerest condolences to all the family and friends

I got 10 too

The things that contol idle is AFM, timing, AAC valve and ECU, The AAC valve might need cleaning: Its located at the back of the plenum chamber (inlet manifold) there is a maroon electrical plug (brittle) and a hose which need to be removed first then there is four ten millimeter bolts that also need to be removed before the whole assembly can be (careful if you want to use the orignal gasket again) removed from the car. then there is two screws that hold the solenoid on, once this is removed the remaining assembly can be cleaned by useing carby cleaner (I used kero and a compressor to dry and clear any blockages) also make sure that the spring moves(smooth) and the valve works. Reassemble in reverse order with a bit of sensor safe silicon with the original gasket(or you could make another one it depends on weather the gasket comes off in one piece) Spark plugs, have them gaped to 0.8mm this helps (platinum/iridium plugs also are a good choice for turbocharged engines) If that doesn't work then the AFM might need cleaning or replacing, timing might need adjusting, The ECU is located in the passenger side wheel kick panel, There is a screw on the ECU that affects idle it is to be adjusted in conjunction with the screw on the AAC valve,Sounds like the AAC valve needs a clean as this basically controls the idle, although in the workshop manual it states that the idle speed, ignition timing,CO and HC density (airflow-meter) are inter-related. Any adjustment to one effects the others and requires an additional inspection. To adjust idle speed From a workshop manual: The screw that is located on the AAC valve is to control idle speed, But first you need to remove the ECCS control unit(computer) from the passenger side kick panel and there is a screw there that controls idle aswell, now if you can read japanese the writing near the screw says "CAUTION Adjust within indicated range. Do not turn with excessive force" Low idle is at the bottom with high idle at the top and just a little bit past the high idle mark there is self diagnosis. This screw needs to be turned to the low idle mark and the engine warmed then remove the electrical plug from the AAC valve and start engine, Idle should be at 900 rpm, if not turn screw on AAC valve assembly to adjust engine speed to 900 rpm. Turn screw to the left (counter clock wise) to increase engine idle. Turn screw to the right (clock wise) to decrease engine idle. Once the target 900 rpm is achieved plug AAC electrical plug back in and observe if there is any change in Rpm if there is this needs to be adjusted at the ECCS control unit with a maximum of 250 rpm adjustment, another Caution if you turn the screw on the ECCS control unit near the self diagnosis spot it sets the engine speed at the lowest setting Rpm minus 50 rpm. Edit: It could also be related to your BOV, as these have a tendancy to make the idle unstable too. MEGA

Too much work involved, floor pan (transmission tunnel) needs to be modified to fit the transfer case, the chassis rails need to be modified to fit the front drive shafts too.

Just when i thought i have seen it all, nice car. Oh well i guess its ture, the french are revolutionary.

Just a thought: If you cant get that to turn off the 4wd without affecting the abs then find the resivior in the RHS of the boot behind a panel and there is a sensor on it to disable the 4wd system if the fluid is to low, hook up a switch to it and it will disable the 4wd without affecting the ABS, the only down side is the wires will have to run from the boot under the rear seat and under the carpet into the cabin. I havent done this yet, but in the mornings my car goes into 2wd mode because the resivior is a bit low atm. Edit: the engine might need to be turned off and on to change between modes though.

PM sent

:wassup: Just as long as she wears lacey underwear to match

Well PM him and tell him you have a good one strutto

OH it doesn't work anymore... "page not found"

He he i think REDFC is joking, he is just fishing for people to tell him that!

Yeah the loom will plug straight in down near the ECU, the g-sensor is the same on the gts4, so i didn't change it and it works fine, dont know about the attessa computer though cause i left mine the gts4 one.

Well I did the GTR conversion on my GTS4 2 door and the rear cradle is the same, so i just changed the Diff and left the cradle the GTS4 one, the rear brakes are the same as the GTR ones, so just change the front ones ( rotors and calipers) as the hubs are the same too, suspension is the same but it will be slightly differant rate on the GTR and you'll need to cut some more holes and enlarge some to allow for the intercooler piping, apart from that the rest is just bolt up stuff, unless your doing the auto to manual aswell, the fire wall has no recess for the boosted clutch that the GTR has, so i used a r31 clutch master, and you'll need to cut out the centre console for the shifter as the GTS4 auto shifters are cable.

Throw-out bearing, and if your feeling lucky the spigot bush that goes in the end of the crank shaft (brass bush that holds the imput shaft on the gearbox)

thx joel i have been looking 4 the r33 one 4 a while...

No... Sorry but the ABS system has it's own warning light, a yellow one, if there is some thing wrong with the ABS system (ie wheel speed sensors, ABS module etc) this light will come on, ABS on a GTS-t is rare as it was an optional thing, but on the 4wd models like the GTR or GTS4 they almost all have it unless it was removed as they already have the individual wheel speed sensors on the front wheels so they got the ABS as standard equipment. The Hicas system doesn't have anything to do with the diff, sometimes the breather on the diff gets blocked open with dirt but there is nothing attached to the diff to trigger a warning light at all. Hey Funky I have alread posted a link ot the hicas diagnostics in an earlier post, but yeah your right they must have missed it if you did. MEGA

Shane, your vibrations have more to do with the wheel balance than the wheel alignment, the only ones that I have seen that suffer from vibrations at 100k's from a wheel alignment is the nissan patrol and landcruiser four-wheel drives, as they tend to suffer from a lack of castor though these need special bushes fitted to twist the front diff to achieve this. Get your wheels computer balanced as this is relatively cheap at tyre shops and most probably fix your problem. and yes usually if you lower the ride height on a car with independent rear suspension then the wheels will toe in and camber will increase into the negative, the toe can be adjusted just with a wheel alignment but the camber needs adjustable upper arms to be fitted to the skylines because the factory didn't fit them from standard. Lowered cars without adjusters tend to wear the inside of the tyres on the rear, sometimes they tend to give it a bit more toe in to counteract this and even the tyre wear out, as toe in will wear the outside of the tyre, but this isn't the best way as your car should have a max of 2mm toe in on the rear. MEGA

Check out these pics if you want to know what hicas does... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=17997 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=17998

Remove the attessa fuse, or turn the car off then on again while its rolling, or buy a torque split controller, If you don't want the added weight of the front drive-train then buy a GTS-t and fit a RB26 but you will be buying new tires every other day.

Who voted "no", Must have been a slip on the mouse.....