MegaGTS4

I would only stick stickers on my car if I received the sponsorship that goes with them.... Ask the professional racer if he would have his car covered in stickers if he didn't have to because of sponsorship. Stickers are for the tool box... and for the people that want to be hassled by the police all the time. Stickers are right up there with chrome wheels as a definite no no. There is a Hyundai Tiburon in my home town that has all the HKS, BLITZ etc stickers from autobahn on the doors but has no turbo or any of them at brands at all and he obviously doesn't know people laugh at him every time they see him drive past. It also has to two N1 style mufflers, wing on the back (front wheel drive) and fake scoops in the bonnet and enough sub's to sink a fleet of ships and big chrome wheels and the only performance mods are exhaust and cold air intake and he's as happy as a pig in **** with his car..... go figure. If I ever turn out like him please shoot me.... you'll be doing the world a favor.

Do you wear a John laws hat when you drive it too.... Acctually the newer 2dr C70 volvo's fly... I know I have driven one... MEGA

Sorry Ferni, actually they do take into account the buckles in the rims but not the inconsistencies in the tires. All vehicles over a certain age or mileage should have some sort of suspension/front end check for excessive play in joints and wheel bearings before a wheel alignment is performed. Any joint with excessive play should be replaced other wise the wheel alignment won't be as accurate and even after the alignment may wear tires prematurely, cause bad fuel economy/performance on the road and tire the driver if they have to fight the pulling effect caused by a bad alignment, not to mention the safety factor. MEGA

Yes it is a bit of a handful in the corners I agree, but with 6 gears and a nearly equal power to weight ratio (not including the driver) it's a monster on the straights and the top speed would make the ax8 125 look like its going backwards. MEGA

Yes but these aren't as accurate as the laser or the string type, and like the side-slip meters should only be used as a pre-wheel alignment to check to see if there is a need for a wheel alignment, as they are basically a big diagnostic tool. They do not take into account inaccuacys in the tires such as flat spots and uneven tyre wear aswell as buckles in the wheels. MEGA

Funny you should ask for the "one that will rape anything" and the "GTR of nissan's", well here it is: Its 14mb but well worth a download if your into gocarts. Its the Gixxerkart!!!! Drifting anyone...... http://dfm.nathue.dk/bogsxr/gsxR1100%20gocart.wmv Though I don't think they would let you race others with this one. MEGA

There are a few different wheel alignment machines out there the most common is the string type, the most accurate is the laser type and there is some ancient ones that rely on fixed head's that attach to the wheel from the hoist/ramp with dial guages and spirit levels. I have been using the string type for about five years, have done thousands of alignments and they only need to be calibrated every few months with hardly and calibration needed. The tires wear fine, though it doesn't do the side slip or thrust angle alignment it only does Camber, Castor, toe and SAI and you can do four wheel alignments with it too. First the vehicle is driven up onto a hoist or ramps that have swivel plates that sit under the front/rear wheels these allow for the wheels to be adjusted without the tires creating any resistance on the adjustments, then clamps are clamped to the wheel, some clamps need to have run-outs performed which require the wheel to be raised off the ramp and rotated and the machine checks for inaccuracies such as buckles or flat spots on the rim, others just clamp on and don't Require run-outs to be performed these are called quick clamps,then the heads are attached to the clamps,and they are leveled with spirit levels on them, careful that these aren't bumped otherwise calibration needs to be performed as they have sensitive sensors inside, then there are strings that are attached between the heads, there can be two heads or four, for a four wheel alignment there needs to be four heads otherwise the vehicle needs to be turned around and the steering wheel straighted and the clamps and heads to be set up on the rear after the front has been aligned, the machine is then turned on and the wheel size is entered into it, camber and toe is what they call live adjustments and just need the machine to be turned on to get the readings and adjustments can be monitored in real time, Castor is different requiring the steering wheel to be turned 20 degrees in each direction to get the readings and the readings aren't live meaning that after adjustments are made then the Castor sweep needs to be performed again to check readings. The laser aligners have four heads that attach to each wheel but instead of strings that can be affected by wind they use the lasers, all adjustments are live ones and they are the most accurate of all the alignment machines, they can also measure the thrust angle, but can't measure the side slip, side slip is usually measured on a side slip meter, this looks like plates on the ground and the vehicle is driven over the top and the side slip is measured in a meter/kilometer reading, if you get a reading like 12m/km means that every kilometer the car travels the wheel would have moved sideways 12 meters if it was allowed to move freely, this is usually determined by the amount of toe in/out that the wheels have, these machine also give a instant toe reading as well, as these machines are a drive over machine you sometimes see them out the front of the service stations, some of these side slip meters also measure brake drag as well as brake efficiency. If you want to know about Castor, Camber, Toe, SAI, Thrust angle, Scrub radius, Included Angle and set back then check out this site. http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm MEGA

Your welcome here buddy, Warning though you might find yourself driving a Skyline in a year or two even though you love the Supras. MEGA

Don't know who told you that but the hicas system has nothing at all to do with the ABS or the diff at all.... There is a diagnostic check that you can perform on your own car and it will tell you exactly what's wrong with the system. You don't have to be that mechanically minded to do the test and the best thing is it won't cost you anything to find exactly whats wrong. Just make sure the power steering reservoir is on the full mark on the dip-stick as this will make the hicas light come on and the diagnostics won't find this. Diagnostics found here: http://www.overflow.250x.com/diagnostics.htm When attempting to do diagnostics be patient as it might not work the first time, but it will work if you keep at it. MEGA

There is a switch on the power head on the steering rack that raises the idle so the car won't stall if there is increased load on the engine. My guess is that this switch might be playing up. If there is insuficant voltage in the system it will also make the hicas light come on. EDIT:Also check power steering fluid. Have you tried running hicas diagnostics? HICAS Diagnostic: It might require a few tries to make it work. Be persistant! Procedure: 1. Ignition switch 'off' manual tranny in neutral or A/T in 'P' 2. Start the engine 3. Within 10 seconds after turning the key to 'ON', start the engine, turn steering wheel from left to right 20 degrees from neutral 5 times or more times & pump the brakes 5 times. Then press the brake pedal again to enter the test mode. 4. Turning the steering wheel left or right past 20 degrees from neutral will cause the rear wheels to turn slightly (~1 degree) (1.). 5. Drive the car forward 15 feet under 9mph to enter the full diagnostic mode. 6. The HICAS dash light will flash a code indicating any problems. Long flash is first digit, short flash is 2nd digit. 7. Diagnostic mode is exited when: ignition is turned off, vehicle speed exceeds 9mph, or diagnostic has operated for 5 minutes. HICAS light codes for '90-'93: 1. HICAS solenoid R.H. 2. HICAS solenoid L.H. 3. Cut-off valve 4. Power Steering solenoid 5. Vehicle Speed sensor 6. Steering angle sensor 7. Steering Neutral positon sensor 8. A/T: Parking Brake Sensor M/T: Clutch sensor 9. A/T: Inhibitor sensor M/T: Neutral sensor HICAS light codes for '94-'99: 11. HICAS control unit 12. HICAS motor power supply not present 13. HICAS motor output not present 21. Vehicle speed signal not present 22. Steering angle sensor angle signal not present 23. Steering angle sensor neutral not present 24. Rear main sensor input not present 25. Rear sub sensor input not present 31. Parking brake sensor input not present 32. Inhibitor switch (A/T) or nuetral switch (M/T) input not present 33. Engine speed signal not present MEGA

If it isn't seized or fouling anywhere then you can check the solenoid part of the valve with a multimeter. There should be 9-10 ohms resistance between the two terminals on the AAC valve. The plug side (eccs control unit side) is measured in volts and needs to be measured between terminal 1 and ground and it will be: The plug should look something roughly like this: .../--... [.1.I.2.] Ignition switched on: battery voltage Cranking engine: 2 to 3 volts Idle when cold: 6 to 7 volts Idle when warm: 8 to 10 volts Sorry I couldn't be more helpful, if you lived in my home town I would try to fix it for you. Edit: I have attached a pic of idle adjustment info. (sorry about the quality) MEGA

But.... it must be the AAC valve if you said it fixed it once before with the borrowed working one? The reason that the hunting continued after the AAC was disconnected could be because the valve or spring is binding/seizing in the housing and is making the valve fluctuate causing the unstable idle. When is it unstable? (All the time or only after the engine warms up) MEGA

Try this: Did you clean the one from the wrecker or was it cleaned by them? Have you tried unpluging the AAC valve to see if there is any change in idle stability after warm up? If idle stabilises then the AAC valve is Dirty or a faulty one. Make sure the plug is making good contact or has clean terminals on the AAC valve. Check wiring for breaks/corosion. If all else fails then you have two faulty AAC valves. Also these will affect/help idle stability: (for any one else with idle problems, not really your problem) Check air/fuel ratio's (do a fuel pressure test aswell) Check ignition timing. Clean the AFM. Check vacuum lines and blow by hose. Check for air leaks in intake pipes. Basically the idle is controled by the AAC valve after the motor reaches operating temperature, when the motor is cold the valve is closed. Other factors that affect idle stability after warm up include air/fuel ratio, ignition timing, misfire or in a worst case scenerio cyclinder compression. Edit: Also the ignition timing, idle speed and CO and HC density (Oxygen sensor) are all inter-related, adjusting/changing one means that you'll need to check the others. MEGA

No it wont harm/risk anything as all it does is disables the hicas system and stores an error code for consult or diagnostics to retreive at a later date, which means that after 100 your car will act like a normal car that has 2 wheel steering. I have attached some pics to help you understand the hicas system a bit better, you might find them interesting. (though they are for nissan's turbo Z they are the same in principle) MEGA

Sorry Conan I have led you down the garden path, the steering angle sensor is out or not working properly because the only thing that works off the individual wheel speed sensors is the ABS system and attessa equiped vehicles (GTR's and GTS4's) and yours being a R34 GT-T it will be the sensor behind the steerig wheel that is out of alignment. The hicas system gets its speed reading from the gearbox and this won't change no matter what profile tyre you use. Take it back to the mechanic to fix it or ask him if he moved the position of the steering wheel, if he has tell him it needs to be aligned or put back to neutral position. I hope you see this before you change try and change tyres. Sorry if I caused any trouble again! MEGA

mmm... Love the pipe work, the intercooker looks like a dry ice one. MEGA

My stock mirrors have little wings on them, haven't seen any others like them on any other 32 skylines, though I love the look of the aero mirrors, Dave hasn't found me a set yet, so I'am still waiting for Rezz's aproval. Damn that is one nice clean white 32 if I didn't know better that looks like the car of a detailer. With the wing gone it looks even better, mmmm..... time to lose the wing offf mine. Olympic clean is the stuff that I use, works a treat but its expensive and you only find reps selling the stuff.

Ylwgtr2 is right the chances that someone has the consult is slim, on board diagnostics is the best way and its free too. Nothing is this conincidental if your playing with the steering wheel position as is the things the hicas rely on. The speed sensor and the steering angle sensor are the eyes and ears of the hicas system. MEGA

There is no easy fix if its the tyre profile as the car will be getting two different speed sensor readings from the front to the back, so basically need to change the tyres to the same profile as the back to remove the error in the system. Hicas has two speed settings fast and slow, and this changes the system to suit fast corners or slow ones, if there is a marginal differance between the two speed sensors (front/back) it will shut down hicas. MEGA

Its not the 225 or the 265, its the profile which will be 50, 55 or 65 etc that I was refering too though. (although this seems to affect vehicles equiped with attessa more than ones with hicas though, sorry my bad!) But if your mechanic removed the steering wheel then he must have done a wheel alignment and straightened the steering wheel by removing it and changing the position on the spline, this will be fine on any other car but not on one with hicas, the poor car thinks its going round in circles hence the error code. As for fixing it, maybe do a search as it has been covered before with pictures and descriptions on how to realign.

Did Merli get one email or pm? Edit the title or first post Prank to the "Two year old thread" to avoid further confusion and spank that kamikaze. MEGA

Tyres different rotational circumference to the rear tyres, or the steering wheel sensor (behind steering wheel) needs realigning. (EDIT: the differance in Tyre profile will only affect vehicles with ABS and Attessa and won't affect those with Hicas as it get its speed reading from the gearbox) MEGA

Oh no people are going to post in the oldest threads ever thanks to funky. I too live for SAU, thanks for the history Shan, now on to the future..... MEGA

Only the bonnet and front gaurds are aluminium on the GTR.

Yeah, and you'll never get over the look on the guys face in the GTR at the drag strip after you leave him in your wake of your $20k GTS4. Who cares if its gts4 or gtr or gts-t for that matter, if its a skyline with a rb26 and 2530's, it will haul, end of story. Any skyline deserves respect.