cobbadan

I cant offer any advice on how to diagnose or fix your problem. I can tell you what i've done and what a lot of people on here have done, which is to remove the hicas system and fit a hicas lock bar to the rear. Problem solvered. If your not sure what it is, have a google around or search here and you'll find it. The only problem you will have after its fitted is you will get the hicas light on your dash lit up all the time. Half hour to pull out your cluster and remove the bulb behind it. Problem solvered again.

Hey George Do you have a 2-3 second lag between the time you press the accelerator and the time the gearbox kicks into gear like the OP or do you have a lag from the time you press the accelerator to the time the revs come up. ? How does the car feel when your sitting still, in your driveway, is it responsive when you free rev it. I don't see how a problem with your air filter or your throttle body is going to affect your transmission. What happens after the lag period ? you put ya foot down -- 2-3 seconds lag -- then the car takes off ,, what happens next, does it run fine through the rev range and change gears perfectly after the initial lag ?

So i should be able to just plug it in as it is and not change anything. The gauge in the new cluster is currently sitting on about half, the tank is full. When i plug it in and turn it on, the new cluster gauge should go up to full. I'm pretty sure i just plugged the last one in and hoped for the best though, and it didn't work so that's why i tried the set it to full and get a full tank trick. It was 6 months to a year ago that i did it though, so i can't be sure if i did that or not. What you say makes sense though with the gauge just reacting to the variable resistor. It should work - I'll have a go and see what happens

I'm replacing the cluster in my 33, i've done this once before and what i tried with the fuel gauge was to go and get a full tank, then set the new cluster to full and crossed my fingers. It didn't work real well, it sort of worked but now it stays full for a long time, then drops like a rock. The fuel gauge doesn't reset itself / calibrate when you switch the car off or disconnect the battery. Whats the go ?? Is there a way to have an accurate fuel gauge after changing the cluster ?

My radiator had a section about the size of a basket ball right in the middle that was completely blocked. water would still flow freely through the radiator, it would just run around the outside. It was overheating at highway speeds the same as yours. A way to test it is to take the radiator out, put the cap on and lay it down on its side with the inlet and outlet facing up. boil the kettle and poor the hot water into it untill its full. Then take your hand and feel for cold spots.

My BF XR6 is fitted with lpg, its about a 50 litre usable tank, i get about 400 highway k's from the tank, costs $25 - $30 per 400 k's. Im not an expert but just looking at the size of the tank in my boot i dont see how you could go much bigger,, unless you got a wagon or a ute. just something to consider ie: you'de have to fill up in dalby so you could get out to site then back to dalby to fuel up again on the way home. The dedicated factory lpg falcons would have a bigger capacity i'd assume. i would also get the xt over the xr6 if i was buying solely for a long distance commuter, softer suspension, nicer ride.

yeah sorry bloke , i just re-read the OP and gave myself a slap in the forehead. liquid injection is pretty new so you probably wont have one of those systems on it, svi / sequential vapour injection has been around for a while, fair chance thats the system you have. The old system is the venturi system, thats the one that you dont want a turbo with. I highly doubt you would have a venturi system fitted to it, but what you can do is trace the air intake from the airbox to the intake manifold and if you dont see a doovalacky device fitted into it that delivers the lpg into the air intake pipe, then you have the svi system. im pretty sure that turbo's and the svi system work together without any drama's.

LPG on XR6 turbo's is getting more common these days, theres quite a few people out there getting good results with the new liquid injection systems. 5 minutes on http://www.fordforums.com.au/ or http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/ should get you some leads and recommendations on who is installing and tuning.

Excellent ,, shoot off an email to Aaron if you haven't already. [email protected] Still a couple of spots left if ya know anyone else that wants to come for a slide.

Miss 32 It's an extension of your compulsory third party insurance. I'm with suncorp,, its just a quick phone call and they email it to me. One Of the other companies charges $10 for it. Just tell em you want a rally extension for a slidewize skidpan day ,, and bobs your aunty.

There's spots available at the next slidewize skidpan day on the 28th if anyone is interested. For those of you who dont know It's held at gympie all beginners welcome Drivers require: OPEN drivers Licence. * CTP Rally Extension. (This is an extension of your ctp insurance, a phone call to your insurer and they'll email it to you) $130 for the day, includes BBQ lunch and soft drinks for driver and ONE co-pilot. Here's a vid to give you a look at the skidpan http://www.youtube.c...v=pATl43t6jWU#! There's plenty of others around I've been to a couple of these, so hit me up if ya have any questions. Im trying to get a couple more players so the day doesn't get canned

No worries mate, I'm glad someone is going to get some use out of the bits and they didn't just go in the bin. Your 33 sounded really nice too by the way.

R33, 2 door, series 1 The plastic trim bits from the sides of the front seats $10 located in camp hill ................................................................................ ................................................................ 94, R33, series 1, 2 door Stock ECU $20 ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................... Audiopipe fuse block with 100A fuse About a metre of 0 gauge, axis brand. Located in Camp Hill $20

Have a read of this - clicky Then check to see whether your fuel filler neck is sealed. Have you ever noticed fuel down the side of your car after spirited driving with a full tank ? Do you get the pssshhh sound when you take the cap off ? Its a pretty common problem that the neck isn't sealed properly

Beeaaatch

Down

wookie

Skids

If its overheating while driving ie: sitting on the highway at 100 --- I would be checking the radiator for blockages. best way to do this (as far as i know) is to remove the radiator, boil the kettle, rad cap on , lay it down flat and poor the boiling water into it. When its full, place your hand on the fins and move it all around feeling for areas that are cold. When i did this with mine it was really easy to pick up,, i had a large area that was blocked. If its overheating when sitting in traffic jams, then look at your viscous fan clutch. google has plenty of advice about how it should operate and how to test it.

Mate, have ya tried ya local wrecker? keep your eye on the for sale sections on here. Ebay. Boost. I see stock airbox's come up for about $50 pretty regularly. I doubt you'll buy the snorkel by itself unless you go to a wreckers.

Parade Laps

Some footage i took. For the first half of the cruise, I was recording when i thought i wasn't ,, and i wasn't when i thought i was. So i missed some of the scenery i wanted to get,, aaanyway here it is. Walk through

What happened ?

Sorry mate, im no help with your problem, but for some reason i felt compelled to modify your post. FYI - big blocks of text like you have written, make me click the back button. Have a quick glance at yours then a quick glance at the one above -- which one would you rather read ?