BrisTroy

Going onto an R 32gtst in brissy, so local would be good, if not, advise cost of postage to 4022

Quick squirt with etch primer will do it. Start with a few VERY light coats to avoid fish scaling around the edges. This happens when the thinners in the new paint softens the edges and causes it to lift n bubble before the new paint dries. Wafer thin coats, with 10 mins dry time between should be sweet, good luck

Ash! Wat the hell :'(!

Is it a solid white? Or metallic? If its solid, honestly, get a tin of ur paint mixed up at autobarn, $30 and a sheet of 1200 wet n dry. Scuff up the bar, lightly, mask up, spray, and let dry. No blending required. Its white. Guaranteed to fix the marking. Allow to set for 48hrs, light rub with the same sheet of 1200 then polish. If its a 32, the white code is more than likely 326....did this to my baby a few times.

Epoxy

The 5 buck supercheap knobs come with a plastic "fits all" sleeve..... Go nuts

Ur moving to the right house for spray jobs

Respray

For a minute there I thought i'd clicked on tellytroubles.com but no, its SAU Well, we're more than able to attend the weekly meet n have a feed, but someone... (Ash?) may have to provide a back seat and door to door service... Its coming along, but very slowly. Other jobs keep jumping in front of it. Found a 25DET +ecu + running gear for $1500....all I need now is an LSD and a free weekend... and some cash. *passes bowl around* Crapstix. Worth a shot. Start work tomorrow, so good to be employed again, nearly 3 months on the sidelines sucked ass. Hope to catch ya's on the weekly. Ash! Msg me n let me know wats going on

Maroon or moron?

Silver 34 n/a in mccormacks sandgate

I'll think about it

95% of a good paint job is the prepped surface underneath straight and smooth is wat ur aiming for

Ok, so here's wat i've worked out so far. (excuse the obvious being pointed out, a mate of mine yesterday was sanding back a layer of paint from a front bar with the dry 60 grit sandpaper for timber) so i'll try be thorough. As much as the damage "doesnt look too bad" with some shiny paint left intact in places, be brutal. Its gomna be fixed, so dont try and preserve anything. Always easier to do a bigger area than blend a repair. I usually start with 220 grit (wet n dry for all this, paper or sander in one hand, bucket and sponge in the other) for taking back paint, but for removing old bog or fibreglass, might go down as far as 80. Take off a few layers of paint and see what you're up against, bog always binds better to bare metal too. You can obviously mix bog correctly, fill and shape, its the sort of thing you'll wanna let dry overnight to be sure its set, everything takes time. Fill holes with "metal fill" its a cross between fibreglass and bog. Harder to sand than bog, but so much stronger. Once overfilled (always over compensate the shape you want) start sanding back with either 220 or 600, depending on the area being done, 220 for something the sander is going to have a lot of movement over, 600 for finer areas and corners. Hopefully by now you have the shape you want, if not, repeat bog step above, only using 600-800 this time, being more particular to fine ripples or dips. "Spray Putty" in a can is a godsend. Its a spray on, fine layer bog ideal for getting rid of stone chips or scratches. Allow about 5 hours for a generous coat of this crap to dry though, it can also undo a lot of hard work by "peeling" the whole layer off if u sand with too much pressure before set overnight. Sand with 800 now, focusing on imperfections, air bubbles (you see these when the job is dry, so its important at this stage to keep washing down with water n sponge, and rag drying) and overall job finish. Ask yourself, is this ready for topcoat? By now it'll be looking pretty alright, but mulitcoloured. Base coat prime 2-3 coats now, and allow a few hours to dry. Now that its all 1 colour, you're probably cursing at those spots you didnt feel or see earlier, so again make friends with the spray putty and sander. Get it right at this stage, or no amoutt of polish at the end will get you out of the shit you end up with. Once happy, give a final coat in surface primer, allow to dry for a couple of hours, and give a light sand back with 1200 to smooth over. You're practically polishing it here, not removing paint, so focus on removing any scratches, and dont stay on the one spot too long. Wash with water and a sponge, allow to air dry, then use "prepwash" or similar to wash off remaining paint dust. Happy with how it looked buffing with that shiny liquid? No dents, good shape? Buff dry, and check for pinprick holes from air bubbles. Topcoat time. Any acrylic in a can will do, but autobarn can mix any auto colour to a paint code, usually no more than 30 bucks. 3 even coats, allow a few hours to dry, then 1200 it smooth, wash with sponge and water, prepwash and allow to dry. Clear coat is this process repeated, but dont touch with paper once sprayed. 48-72 hours is time required to dry for clear to be cut back. Start with 600 to remove orange peel look, then 1200 to remove the 600's scratches, then 3000 to remove the 1200's scratches. Finally buff with a cutting compound, and finish with a polish/wax. This was originally a PM, but good info to share here. Feel free to add anything i left out or go into more detail. Hope this helps.

www.carmate.com.au

Would I be wrong in suggesting brass brush and metal polish?

I have 2 rooms, move in tonight sent a PM

Well, im not doing much atm say the word when ur ready... On another note, big thanks to Smitty, even though we havent actually met, and Chris Rogers, for constructive criticism and positive input, throwing an idea or 2 around to sort out the mess in my engine bay. Appreciate it heaps.

Thanks Ash. Im not working atm, and im workin on a car I enjoy, without spending a bucketload on it, because I have no intention keeping it long term. No, its not turbo, but I have more than doubled my target market when reselling when you consider its P plate legal. This, is more important to me atm, than rwhp...

The brown injectors and from an rb30.... Bingo

Ok, so i've got the brown/burgendy injectors, the second one's pictured... Are these suited to the rb25de or am I looking at my problem?

Throw in the lsd too and i'll be very interested

Yeh, im trying to spot the difference between turbo n non turbo injectors...have a feeling I may have a set of turbo in an n/a

Havent got that far yet, will be pulling them out tomorrow. Wat colour are the turbo ones?

Fckn lol yeah. I may need someone's assistance with diagnostics on my 33 sometime, other than the turbo missing I have a miss below about 3500rpm and think some douche off boost put turbo injectors into an rb25 de.... And all the breather piping for the rocker cover just looks wrong....