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Don't know what you guys are talking about.. But RB26 in a V35 would be dope! If you got the coin and it's what you want, Send it! I want to 1jz swap my sedan

Awesome work man!! I struggle to take photos and document my process.. I had no idea about the difference in tranny tunnels for handbrake relocation until you mentioned it.. I'm going to have to make up some brackets I think. I don't have the means to modify the tunnel to level above unfortunately. Keen to see how this pans out. Looking forward to the updates. Cheers

Yesterday.. Successfully got the horizontal diff bushing out and replaced with the solid one. Man that job can suck a fat JDM dick! I used the drill method & used pry bars, a chisel & a hacksaw blade. Covered in micro metal splinters and rubber, Not fun. But stuck it out and got it done. Scuffed up the housing pretty good so I don't recommend this method. If I did it again I would make up a diy clamping pulling tool with a long thread & washers etc. Took about 1 solid hours of banging away at it, in reality it took about 3 hours. I also removed the front upper & lower controls arms. That was actually pretty easy. I just have the brakes propped up on blocks of wood on my wheels for a few days while I get the control arm bushings pressed out & in an at a mates. That's about it. I'm f**king exhausted. I hope who ever reads this is having a good weekend. Next job after above is decide whether I want to replace the rear main seal or not, install the clutch & clutch pedal, then chuck the drivetrain in

Thanks for the input. I'll keep that in mind for the future. Did you grease the bushing sleeves/housings before install? This car is intended for street/drift daily until I get bored, So I'm happy with a stiffer ride.

Ok that makes sense, thanks. It's these little things like the hvac that aren't really documented anywhere. Yesterday I got a few things done. Not as much as I'd like but still hit my goal. I focused on removing the diff vertical bushings. Spent a lot of hours trying to get them out, maybe 3 all up. Once I figured out what was working it was fairly seamless. I started by blow torching them, drilling and got a mad squirt of hydraulic fluid all over me and some in my eye. Pretty grateful I wear glasses at that point. Kinda scary, but didn't burn or sting so I just washed up and got back to it. More torching / drilling. Got one of the insides out. Then I started chiselling out the housing from the diff ears using the chisel as a wedge & that worked great. Just kept banging the f**k out of it and success. Almost gave up on it but glad I stuck it out. Installing the Whiteline solid bushings was a breeze. Next time I'm going to do the horizontal diff bushing, the one in the rear subframe. Not really looking forward to that, but I did notice mine had a leak mark on the subframe so I am glad I'm doing the job now as It wont last much longer under load. During that job I removed and installed a new passenger side sway bar link. Straight forward since I already did the driver side one. Just like the frist one I installed, I had to drop the whole sway bar and grinded the link bolt off as it stripped very easily. I replaced it because when my friend installed lowering springs years ago the thread was banged up and couldn't get the nut on. I was driving the car with no link nut on for a year lol. The car is unregistered so it will need to go over the pits and they wouldn't pass that imo. Anyways I replaced the links with ebay Febest brand $20ea shipped & they seem ok but they are junk and I wouldn't recommend them. They use nylon 19mm nuts instead of 17mm flange nuts & where the link bolts to the control arm I've already noticed the threads strip already as I had to remove it to drop the whole sway bar. I managed to get it back on and finish the job, but doubt they will last. I have the replacement oem nuts I've ordered so I used them too. I would recommend Whiteline sway bar/links for a couple hundred bucks. Next time I work on the car I'm going to remove all the control arms and take them to a shop to use a hydraulic press to remove all those bushings for the whiteline F&R essentials kit I have. That's where I'm at. Doing these optional preventative/upgrade maintenance steps.

+ Note to self.. When you remove a power steering line on the rack, every time you turn the wheel for whatever reason fluid will piss out of the rack It helped that there's a big whole inside the car now from removing the shifter & boot, so i could see it leak when steering was activated haha

Today.... Did a few smaller jobs, wasn't feeling the best today.. *Cleaned up dirt covering oil spills from last week lol, actually came up perfect with degreaser & orange power & fine dirt from the back yard. *Remove auto flywheel - easy. I have a new rear main seal. It looks like the one that's on there has been replaced maybe or Nissan just use a lot of RTV sealant from the factory. My mate said if it's not leaking and seems ok to just leave it. So I'll probably do that. *Remove auto shifter / centre console - easy once I knew how. Two screws, one either side of console near seat, the console just unclipped as I pulled on it. Had to use the shiftlock to put the shifter lower into drive to lift the console up. remove hvac thing with two screws. then to get console out there are two screws near the front & two near the back. pretty basic. Also the manual console I have does not use the hvac to send air to the rear passengers, I guess coz I got a manual coupe console maybe? Doesn't really matter to me anyways but worth noting. *Drivers seat electronic controls got stuck, fixed that - super easy with a quick search on here. Just removed the controls with two screws, unclipped and roughly cleaned. Was actually super surprised that worked lol. Was easy with the console out. *Stared at diff for a while, contemplating getting started with the whiteline bushings, wasn't feeling it. Next time I'll probably work on installing the clutch pedal. Still deciding whether to install the manual brake pedal I have or just chop the auto brake pedal. And get started with the Whiteline solid bushings, probably drop the rear subframe as I have the whole bushing kit. May as well.. On a side note when searching this forum about the centre console removal, I came across a thread where a member Adam left a post with his number. I thought f**k it and called the guy. Spoke to him for 30 mins helping me with this n that. Guy was super helpful since he's done this 6MT swap before. Hooked me up with the V35 manual too. Legend!! Adam mentioned that one of the must do jobs or the car wont start is to properly index the flywheel. So I'm glad he reminded me about that. I'll admit I've been getting a bit too excited and I'm not really referencing the DIY guide link in the op. So I'll have a another read of that tonight. That's all I can think of atm. I'm kinda burnt out. It was very humid today in Perth. I'll try take a bunch of photos next time. Peace

One other thing to add. When we were removing the bolts for the Ring gear/Torque converter so we could get the CVT out, We removed the power steering rack lines that were in the way of the inspection hole. Made that job 10 times easier. It can be done without doing so but it was that much easier/quicker to just do it.

Btw... When I refer to X above in the op, I meant Ring Gear i think. Just remembered. I've had a hectic week and just took a day off yesterday, Woke up with a burner headache today.. Bahhumbug. But gonna try and head over to my dads house where the cars at and get something done today.

I just got an application approved for a rental with a sweet powered workshop, so I'm stoked on that atm

I'll see how it goes anyways.. Who knows the life it's had previously lol Gonna try and work on it tomorrow if I have time, or Saturday most def.

Ok. That's what I thought. Thx

Hey guys, Thought I'd drop an update on the 6MT swap on my 2002 350gt-8.. On Saturday I dropped the diff, driveshaft & CVT with the help of a friend & only nearly killed him once with the cvt falling off the jack hahaha. Got it done in about 2.5-3hrs with a few hours prep I did the weekend before. Prep like drop exhaust, remove most of the bellhousing bolts, CVT clutch lines, loosen what driveshaft bolts I could etc. The most difficult parts were the little things really, remove this to get to that etc. Going through the CVT inspection plate to remove the X (I forgot what its called- between flywheel/torque convertor) otherwise the torque converter will still be attached and fighting the removal of the gearbox. Removed started motor, cable tied it aside to spin and wedge the X to get to the bolts through the inspection plate. Also removed the CVT dipstick & a loom bracket to get bellhousing bolts off from the top inside engine bay. Didn't have to touch the interior just left it in neutral to rotate driveshaft, disconnected gear linkage, was a peice of cake actually. I have a question though.. I sourced a CD001 6MT through this forum like at least 3 years ago for 1k before I knew of the difference. Is it possible to rebuild a CD001 so it has synchros like a CD009 or at least strengthen it?? also I've watched a bunch of youtube vids and I'm getting the impression that it's better to weld an open diff over a VLSD. Can anyone explain why this is please? Also have a 2003 350z VLSD I'm installing along with Whitline bushings essentials kit. Will measure up the driveshaft when 6MT & diff are installed. Next up is to prep the Z1 clutch for install, remove auto flywheel, rear main seal if required etc, solid bushings, interior prep, prep 6MT crossmember, install 6MT, short shifter etc, handbrake relocation(the cable is already right where it needs to be running through the tranny tunnel), clutch/brake pedal install then once that's all done scratching my head for a day maybe dealing with electronics hehe.. Just goto bridge the neutral safety switch and figure out reverse lights I think.. I'm going by this thread below mainly. But didnt even look at it when getting into the job, basically just unbolt remove whats in the way and drop whats needed. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/552038-5at-to-6mt-swap-info-diy-guide-thread.html Yes I'm more than likely forgetting a lot, but it's pretty straight forward. Having my mechanic friend there for really helped figuring out the inspection plate X removal & with tips for getting more leverage/using the car to our advantage. Like loosening the axel shaft bolts with the 2nd spanner pinned up against the sway bar, removing the the driveshaft still attached to the diff as we didnt have the 8mm allen key tool required for the diff side driveshaft. ALL THIS WAS DONE ON WITH THE CAR ON JACK STANDS WITH BASIC TOOLS BTW...I'm waiting on an order from the USA- 'Never Ending Details'. DO NOT USE THIS COMPANY. They f**king suck. Barely any communication, Took ages to ship (nearly 2 months) and that's with me threatening them with a VISA dispute. Anyways just thought I'd add my experience with them. Pretty much follows the multiple bad reviews I've read online, same shit. The order was for flywheel/pressure plate bolts/various peices as it was a lot cheaper than going through Nissan (eg $17.50 VS ~$2 for 1x OEM flywheel bolt) I'm stoked the hard part is pretty much over. More room for activities now hehehe. BTW, the goal for this car is to make it into a nice street/semi drift capable car, with strut bracing/chassis reinforcement, coilovers, camber/angle mods & maybe a plenum spacer/intake being on the cards. Already has a mean sounding full borla exhaust & headers from the previous owner + ditch the wack bob jane special rims for some lightweight Rays TE37's. This car has been sitting for 3-4 years so I'm feeling really accomplished and excited to get her on the road again I will try to keep you guys updated. Cheers, Seb

Thank for the reply.. I'll check it out. This is what I was looking for for now. Just had to google 'nissan v35 torque spec suspension'.. But would still be very handy to have them all in easy to read sheet to refer to. Cheers

Like I'm replacing a sway bay link (driver side front) as the links bolt is damaged on the end (from when my friend put low springs in and couldn't get the link back on) and I don't know what to torque the bolt to etc..

Hey.. I got a 2002 V35 350gt-8 sedan and am doing a manual conversion & other repairs here and there.. Does anyone have a torque spec sheet for these cars? I have been looking online for something and only really found this https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Nissan-Murano-2003-05/Specifications/Torque-Specifications/_/P-0996b43f803806ac Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm just a DIY guy who's trying to get his car rolling at the end of the day lol Thanks

I have the same project in the works.. I have all the parts either ready to go or in shipping. I'm pretty sure its the same pedal assembly. Check this thread https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/552038-5at-to-6mt-swap-info-diy-guide-thread.html Let me know how you go. I'll try to keep this forum posted on my progess also Good luck!!

Bumping an old thread lol... The car has been garaged since 2013. Just in the past month I've been gathering the motivation to finish this project up. I found this thread which covers the 6mt swap process in nice detail step by step. But it's for a g35 and 5AT->6mt, So there may be a few differences.. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/552038-5at-to-6mt-swap-info-diy-guide-thread.html And here's a parts list someone from that thread posted which seems fairly accurate for reference. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19f3j81JZH8ajiqfUhnDdfWXNqDriAaca-rtUPMv6HZs/edit#gid=0 I'm just looking for someone to help me with it now. Anyone know a backyard mechanic in Perth who likes cash money lol? I've called the whole thing a loss so I have no financial attachment to this car anymore as it's been so long, so that's a plus. I'm going to service the motor this week and see how it's liked being shelved for a number of years. Anyone have any tips for servicing a vq35de that hasn't run for a period of time? I'll keep you all posted. Cheers

that does look pretty sweet, and i understand that the shorter the height.. also means a somewhat shorter throw. my problem is just finding a stock shifter as it costs more than most short throws would.. i'll see how i go, the manual conversion project will be done in a few weeks. cheers for the reply mosoto!

Anyone installed a short throw shifter in a v35 or 350z.. ? if so which kit/brand, and how do you like it compared to the stock shifter.. ? and also sell me your stock shifter if anyone has one still handy. for this project.. My link have a 350z box but no shifter, i like the throw of the stock shifter.. i had a fc and prefered the stock shifter compared to a short shifter in the manual box. the short shifter felt better for drag purposes, but worse for drifting which is my style of driving. cheers, Seb

all in the title. have a v35 manual conversion project, have 350z 6MT box but no shifter. 0423 279 321 cheers, Seb

bump! .... big power potential, not for the faint hearted.. peace1

4 sale is a brand new Innovative (USA) polished T72 dual ball bearing p-trim, 1.15 exhaust housing, .72 compressor wheel Perth, WA The turbo was custom built by Grant @Per4manz in Perth, designed for a 13b rotary to make 440hp @14psi with very little lag. I am sure this turbo could run all day @25psi.. If anyone needs more info on how it would run on a different motor, i can find out easily or you could ask Grant yourself, mention Sebastian's T72 for rotary and he will remember. Per4manz Website Reason for sale: I regretfully never got around to installing it on my fc and sold it recently, bought a v35 sedan.. This turbo is too big for the v35, very possible to fit but it would be out of my budget to install on the v35, but would make big numbers. I purchased the turbo for $2,200 and am firm on that price, as this turbo has gone up in price since i bought it. I saw the same turbo selling for $2,900 elsewhere.. I will post better photos over the next day or two, the one below is shown in plastic wrap next to a td06 setup i just sold. 0423 279 321 Seb

yeh its all going to plan, i got the money there ready to go since selling my fc.. purchased the gearbox lastweek, should be getting shipped this week. put a down payment on the parts from the 350z halfcut which has landed, except for the tail shaft which is coming oct 9th(my bday) so once all the parts are here its a pretty simple matter of droppin the v35 at c-red and waiting a week, im guessing something will come up where i need another part or something goes wrong... modifying cars eh? still havent sussed out the lsd, since im getting most the drivetrain from this 350z thats landed and its only done 35 odd thousand k's, i might roll with that one if i can get it for cheap, even though its a viscious lsd and i know its bound to wear out and spin single leg eventually, 35k's is fair, should have a bit of life in it. also after driving the car a bit, it has enough power for me now, its just the lsd issue -of not having it. im used to my rx7 fc and the lsd was amazing!! in the wet the v35 will step out pleasantly enough, but in the dry its very single leg. i feel like a goose with there first commodore or falcon lol.. i have enough money for the 6mt conversion and some spare, so maybe coilovers is next.... turbo is still definitely on the cards, i do have a brand new t72 sitting here still in plastic wrap, but i think it's far to big for the v.. after selling some music equipment i need to offload and other shit etc + making some dosh, turbo is on the cards peace heres my music btw if anyones bored http://soundcloud.com/padlock-crate-digger

found most of the parts, buying them and arranging shipment this week, tomorrow.. so hopefully should be in the shop 'c-red' by next week if shipping is fast.. yeeeh! not sure whether to go for an aftermarket clutch/flywheel setup or to go with a stock setup, the 350z halfcut i've found has 35ish k's on it, stock clutch and flywheel is $275 from this halfcut, not mentioning the shop because if someone else jumps on these parts im f**ked! will mention after.. aftermarket clutch/flywheel is $1600 thru c-red, so im thinking i'll just roll with the stock one for now, get a button clutch and light flywheel when i get more power or this one dies. rolling with the gt-8 ecu and just tricking it to work, i need the ignition key and imobilser module from the halfcut. will keep yall posted. peace, seb