iwanta34gtr

No need for another GTT to loose its soul. Just save your cash 4 a real GTR, thats what I did.

No need for another GTT to loose its soul. Just save your cash 4 a real GTR, thats what I did.

No need for another GTT to loose its soul. Just save your cash 4 a real GTR, thats what I did.

Just did a quick search 4 u - heres some more detailed instructions. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/144131-how-to-fix-tacho-r33-maybe/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/324517-tacho-showing-over-9000/

I had this issue when I had a r33 and it was a dry solder joint on the back of the cluster. If you have a soldering iron, pull your dash out of the car and reflow or resolder all of the joints 4 the tacho and this will most likely fix it. This is maybe why it works when you tap on the dash because its putting slight pressure on the cluster thus moving the joints. Or could just be a dodgey cable at the back of the cluster. Maybe needs a clean. You could either try this first or do both when you pull the cluster out to hit the fault from both angles.

Bump still available

Bump still available

Bump still available

Hi every1, Im looking for a R34 GTR, either vspec or vspec II and bayside blue in colour. I am located in Sydney but may travel to VIC or QLD for the right car. Have cash ready. If you have one, please PM me your contact number and a brief description of your car + asking price and we'll go from there. No carsales links please, already check there regularly. And please No broker / importer / dealer offers, I already have people looking in Japan 4 me. Thanks

Both cars are in my price range.

Yeah I understand mate, its not a permanent fix. I've heard from some people that it can last years before it does come back (if it does) though. What time frame would you put on it?

Hi every1, I have been looking for a nice r34 gtr for a while now but have not found anything yet. So I am starting to think about getting a r35 gtr instead. But are all of the parts etc very expensive? Would just like 2 kno what im getting myself in 2.

Hi every1, I got redline lightweight shockproof today and put it in my box. Since then the resistance, crunch, vibration in to 5th has stopped (touch wood) and every gear seems so much smoother. Just wanted 2 say thank u 2 Little, moodles2 and 10 4. I really appreciate your advice and help with this thanks so much.

Hi every1, I got redline lightweight shockproof today and put it in my box. Since then the resistance, crunch, vibration in to 5th has stopped (touch wood) and every gear seems so much smoother. Just wanted 2 say thank u 2 every1 that helped with this - Aggroman, N1GTR, GTRsean, BOZ22N, zebra and fatz. I really appreciate your advice thanks so much.

Had a few PM's. I am open to offers. And sorry but this is pick up only. Because of its shape its too akward to post.

Open to offers on all parts. Had a few PM's. I will post the gauges but the cat, air box - etc are too heavy / akward to post so pick up only on those ones sorry.

Price drop - $50 including postage anywhere in Australia. Also open to offers if picking up in Sydney.

And was also thinking, when i do put the lightweight shockproof in. After draining the existing oil, would u guys recommend completely cleaning / flushing the box out or is this not really necessary?

And was also thinking, when i do put the lightweight shockproof in. After draining the existing oil, would u guys recommend completely cleaning / flushing the box out or is this not really necessary?

Thanks again for your pro advice David I really appreciate it. Was only wanting to go heavy mainly because I dont want 2 hear the crunch or get the resistance (which hopefully guranteed to stop it with heavy). Just didnt want to go putting in lightweight and then having no improvement and needing to get heavy anyway. I wonder if there is anything wrong with skipping lightweight and jumping straight in to heavy when all other synchros are fine? Maybe a conversation for another day. What threw me off is that when I read about the lightweight it says "It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold." and my box is fine when its cold its when it warms up a little bit and you see the fault. Will take ur advice and go lightweight though.

Thanx guys, Im pretty sure 5th synchro is rooted and box needs a rebuild / new synchro to fix it. Was only wanting to go heavy mainly because I dont want 2 hear the crunch or get the resistance (which hopefully guranteed to stop it with heavy). Just didnt want to go putting in lightweight and then having no improvement and needing to get heavy anyway. What threw me off is that when I read about the lightweight it says "It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold." and my box is fine when its cold its when it warms up a little bit and you see the fault. I wonder if there is anything wrong with skipping lightweight and jumping straight in to heavy when all other synchros are fine? Will take ur guys advice and go lightweight though.

Hi Moodles2, thanks for the post. Please define f*cked. I did some research and was actually going to go heavy as it i thought it was for problematic boxes (like mine is?)

Thanks for the clarification David. I was going to go with the heavy as it states its for problematic gear boxes and mine gives the slight crunch and resistance. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=44&pcid=8

Hi mate, Thanx for the info. My car has 93,000 on the clock. Its been tracked quite a bit though. Im pretty sure that the heavy shockproof is for boxes which are already crunching. But need confirmation on this. Id like to give shockproof a go because the resistance / crunch is not really that bad and only happens when the cars been running and heats up.

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