Driftnuttz

Getting close to putting it in......

Again I AM NOT USING A GTR PACK...... The one I posted has 2 wires 1 in and 1 out, the 7mgte has 3 wire 1 in and 2 out. Not all resistor packs are made the same. I am going to use one o those 2, if the stock one will work then its that one cause its plug and play if not than its the 7mgte one cause it matchs the injectors...... I would like to know if the above resistor pack will work with other injectors. I was under the impression that rb20s ran high ind injectors and didnt have resistors on them...

I am going to run 7mgte (us spec supra) injectors. My main question is, is this one and could I just wire one in where that one plugs in on the harness? In place of hacking the whole harness up.

I need one to run my 440cc injectors, and was looking around ebay and came across this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/R32-Nissan-Skyline-RB20DET-Injector-Resistor-Pack-/170695860614?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27be442186 My harness did have a pack like this plugged into it, but the guy I bought my harness (gts-4) from didnt want to let it go for some reason ( I didnt know what it was and he wanted me to add money on top). I didnt think the rb20dets had them from the factory.

You still have to do the same stuff. Remove the chip in the computer, and add the board. Maybe you get a bigger map (16x16 is what I will be working with), thats not worth it to me. I will be data logging with consult and a laptop.

When did nistune only cost 150? Look a chip is just as good as a off the shelf ems system, minus a few things. People make crap loads of power on chipped ecus all the time.Even nistune is just lick a chip, it replaces the chip with a small board. Is it the best way to tune? no But it is cheap..

I will be socketing the ecu and burning chips. I plan on using an emulator to tune and then burning a chip to use when not tuning..

The rb25 head will see a higher lift in compression when shaved. I am still cleaning the combustion chambers to avoid det from hot spots. Should be putting the head together in the next week or so. Then its on the block and in the car. I will be posting my results here. Anyone know of any good tuning software that is free or cheap? I have a buddy that is going to lend me his tuning know how, but only uses an power fc right now. I am going to use a chip. I have romedit, just kinda looking to see if there is any more out there.

Running stock cams, hx35, and tunning should be fun. I have 93 octain here in the states and can get my hands on race gas. If you see the way the head is made, you will see that shaving that much wont rais the comp up that much. I am looking for 9.0-9.5 to 1. I wont beable to run the same timing, but I wont need to. I should also see boost sooner now, and off boost power will be better.....

Building up a rb20det. I have done some head work and shaved about .040 off to raise the comp ratio....... I hope they are not na, cause that might cause problems....

Ok cool thanx. I didnt think they were aftermarket, I just didnt know if they were na pistons or not.

I need to make sure these are factory turbo pistons in my rb20. The markings are "2 (on the timing side) 59s (other side) 06 ( right under 59s). Can anyone help me out?

I will be useing them in my rb20det(redtop block with silvertop head and wiring). I should be up and running in about 4weeks, Ican let you guys know.

I know this is old, but heres my take. I have been working on a rb20det head. From what I have been told, unless you know 100% what your doing DONT MESS WITH THE SHORT SIDE. You can really mess up the port and lose a ton of power by over porting or miss shaping that. Air goes in a straight line, and really does not like to turn. With that, you can see good gains by removing stuff around the seat, NOT much but some. Also DONT OPEN THE PORT ANY unless your looking for big big top end power. The first little bit of the port is what gives the speed, the rest tells how much air can flow at that speed. Now if you port one part you have to open the rest. If your port flows 200cfm at the port open, 150cfm in the middle, 125cfm athe the throught, and 100cfm at the valve seat. Now you ported the opening a little and made it flow 230cfm, you still will only see 150cfm, 125cfm, and 100cfm at the valve seats. If your going to port any where on your head, at least clean up the whole port. Be carefull not to take out too much stuff, and be carefull around the short side turn. What I did to my head was shrink the splitter in the intake port, opened the throught (I didnt mess with the short side much at all) a little, and got a 3 angle valve job. This should improve flow throught the whole port and not slow the air down. Now time for the before and after pics.... Before After. I didnt mess with the outside walls only the inside splitter. This is my ex port where I removed the stud hump