Driftnuttz

Thanx Jonno. I dont know what car the rb20 head came out of. Is it something that will/can impeed the flow of fuel to the rail? Should I remove it? I have a fuel pressure regulator that is going on inplace of the other one.

From what I have research just the rb25 crank, rods, and stock sized rb20 pistons will only net you a 2050cc engine. You have to use over sized pistons to really up the ccs. Remember the rb25 stroke is only 2mm longer then the rb20, just adding 2mm will not get you much. If your going to do it, you should just go all out and do the rb24. I have to say though, if I was in a place that had rb25 for what rb20s cost here I would have a rb25 in mine........ Good luck.

They both have vac lines. One was ran to the throttle body and the other is ran to the manifold. The one that is ran to the manifold is on the from of the motor. Is it needed or can it be trashed?

I have this rb20det silver top head and noticed that on the fuel rail there are 2 fuel pressure regulator. Are they both fuel pressure regulators, or is one something else? It is not letting me post any pictures, but here they are on my facebook page...lol http://www.facebook....&type=1 http://www.facebook....&type=1 I did do a little searching but found nothing...

You might have a replaced a blown turbo with a blown turbo. Did you replace it with a used factory unit?

"team usa"

I cant speek for the OP, but if I was going to go into the block I would do a 2.4 build using the rb26 crank and rods. Considering I have the rb20. Here in the USA it would cost about the same as a forged rb20.

Oh ok I got you thanks. Thats what I was thinking just wanted to make sure. lol

I am sorry, but please explain what your saying here. No clue what you mean by "bugger all"...... Again sorry, I am in the USA and not used to some of the words you guys down under use....

That may be the case most of the time, but in my case I will all readdy have the head off and am not "building" the engine. So 2500 is not cheaper then what I am going to do. That and I do all my own work. Its not really "experimental" head work, as air wants to flow straight. The straighter the air flows the less the air has to slow down and the more power that the head can make. It really doesnt matter what head its trying to flow through, it wants the same thing. Just because not many people port the rb20 head really is invalid. If you can straighten or even soften the bend in the port it will flow better and more cfm, you dont need more volume to flow more air, if you can get the air moving faster then your going to make more power. Forgot about smoothing the ports over what they are from the factory. That aloan can gain power and flow. Not too smooth.

1500 usd is 1398 aud just to give you a good idea of how much it is. Also for that 1500 you get motor, trans, wiring harness, computer, turbo, and all the sensors and intake stuff. We can get just the complete motor for around 700 usd lol here for a good v8 its like buying a car.....lol ls1 is 3-4k us just for the motor. sr20's are like 2k. We get raped in the us..... I like the rb20det, and if I had the money to do a rb25 with a better turbo I would. I am doing a rb20 swap now and will be going through the motor checking everything out. I will be cleaning up the ports and seeing if I can improve them any. I am also going to port match the intake manifold and head, along with the exit side. I have a full redtop eccs now, but will be putting on the silvertop head and all the silvertop electronics and computer. I will be using the redtops intake cam as its a 248 dur, thinking about trying to find a nother one for the exhaust. I will be using the neo turbo for now till I can save up some money to buy a better. I also have a 10lb (4.5kg) flywheel. I thought about getting the head shaved a bit to up the compression a point or two, but am still looking into that and am not sure if thats the best route to take. LOL maybe I should start a build thread instead of putting it in here........

Yeah and here is the USA the swap alone will cost 2500 or so. then to put it is a s13-14 you will need mounts, driveshaft, and intercooler........ The rb20det is a 1500 swap that will need mounts, and intercooler stuff. Thats not including paying someone to do the swap. I had 3k(us) in my last s13 coupe that had a rb20det swap and I did everything myself. I even found a swap for 1000(us).

Yeah I know this, but the point of porting is to make the head flow better NOT to make the ports as bigg as you can. A lot of times you can get more flow from a reshape or just a little bit of grinding here and there. Making the ports as bigg as you can is stupid, plain and simple. I have seen many honda guys do this and end up with a big hunk of junk called a head. My buddy made more power by making his ports narrower and taking a grinder to the port floor on his b20 integra.... Maybe this is what the rb20 needs. Object is to get the air to flow as sraight as possible cause thats what it wants to do. If there is a bend your better off taking some out of the inside of said bend to soften the bend a bit. Now you cant take too much out cause your adding volume to the port and too much volume will slow the air and lose power. If you can get the port to flow 5% more cfm (cubic feet per minute), then you will gain power and your cams will love the added flow........

Ok guys think about what everyone is saying. i know that the rb25/26/30 is better, but here in the states its a $2500 swap. I was reading a few threads on here last night and saw roy himself say that he thinks the turbo he was using was holding him back not the cams or head..... A better flowing head will increase both bottom end and high end(granted more highend then lowend). Now because your moving more air in and out you get a faster spool and there is more midrange. Then you ad cams because once the head flows a bit better the cams will start to show gains. Yes cams are known for moving the powerband higher, but that is what cam gears are made for. Cam gears arent made to make more power, they are made to adjust the LSA (lobe seperation angle). When you adjust the lsa it moves the powerband around. Thats why when you buy a cam for older v8s they ask what lsa you want. http://www.team-integra.net/forum/14-performance/15390-cam-gear-tuning-basics.html ^ that is an Integra site, but its the same with every engine as alll engines make power the same way. If this sounds like I am just arguing with everyone, I am sorry. I just come from a world where in order to make power you work with the head cause thats where all the work is done and the bottom end just needs to be able to hold the power.

can someone post a link to the 260rwkw thread so I can give it a read?

I kinda get what your saying, but I just cant see how the head cant be made better with a little work. The head is what makes the power, it really doesnt make sense. Stock rb20s have 240 dur cams, thats not that big of a cam for a 2.0. I know you guys are going to say, its been done before. I just cant see how a nice head job ( not a lot is needed sometimes), cam gears, and some 264 dur cams are worse then stock. Even honda vtec motors gain power from head work and cams, and they have some of the best flowing heads from the factory end of story. There is a guy that was making 398whp stock motor with a tune, injectors, turbo, and cams. I just cant see how he would be at that same power or less with a nicly worked head. Keep in mind that the better the head flows the faster boost comes on too. I see he says he makes full boost (16psi) at 5200ish, I would think that would be closer to 4700(ish) with better flow. Please correct me if I am wrong, but this is the way I have learned it from my v8 building buddies. I will have to look at the thread that you guys speak of.

Why does everyone say "keep standard cams"? I mean I know that the head on the rb20s suck, but if ported the aftermarket cams will make more power then standard ones. What gives?

Can you use this to run a n62 (z32) maff on the rb20? I know the stock ecu wont even crank the engine with out the voltage being changed or something like that.

You dont need both, at least thats what aem says. I do think it would work better if the ecu it was piggy backing was tuned. The one I might get is the fic-6. I think the 6 only misses 4-5 things that the 8 has.

Well I just did a whole long reply, as I was reading more up on this thing. Looks like it does both. In order to adjust the timing (retard only) it intercepts the cas signal to the ecu, but to adjust the fuel it intercepts the injector signals from the ecu. It also taps into, but does not intercept, the tps and o2. It also has a built on map sensor that you can use to tune with. I am kinda looking for reworld reviews. I dont like only going by company pushed reviews. I could just get CarlH from nico to do a rom chip/tune, but the only reason I am looking into this is cause its brand new and free pretty much to me. I guess if I had to pay the money I would just get the rom tune. thanx for the feedback.

I will be upgrading later, I just need something to get the car going. My setup is as follows: rb20det redtop block with a silvertop head neo turbine 440cc supra injectors front facing inlet manifold small port job on intake and exhaust ports 3in turbo back catless walbro 255l fuel pump adjustable fuel pressure regulator

I would not use a afc type piggy back (intersepts the signal pre ecu). From what I can tell this one intersepts the signal after the ecu. I can get this unit for free basicly, sooo its way better then nothing. Right?

I have a chance to trade something for this AEM FIC ( http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine-management-systems-9/fuel-ignition-controller-f-ic-12/ ). Has anyone used one of these? I know its not a ems, but I have been reading good things about it. I am wondering how they do on the rb's.

Well I was doing some googling and came across a website that sells oem valves. Well the rb20det valve on the site are said to work with all the rb20det engines. http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-intake-valve-rb20det-57980 Seem right to you guys?

Let me first say, Hi eveyone. My name is Daniel and I am swapping a rb20 into my 93 240sx coupe. I did a rb20det swap last year, but was an idiot and traded it. I picked up my coupe I have now that was sr powered, but I just didnt like the way the sr felt. I ended up traded with a guy for a "built rb20". Turns out the rb is stock and from a r31(eccs). I was not happy when I found this out, but it was too late to do anything about it. I am making the best out of it and am close to installing the motor in the 240sx. I have been lurking the forums for a while and figured I would start posting and asking a few questions about the r31 rb20 that most here just dont know....