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Everything posted by red17
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I have a genuine GTR front bumper on my GTSt. How do i know? Well its a nissan stamped, PLASTIC bumper in the original 2 piece configuration that came on the GTR only. I also have the aluminium bonnet It does fit well, and by the looks of things it doesnt look too difficult to do. The guards might be wider on the GTR, except they start and finish in the same place... they just bulge out more along the way. A mechanic friend of mine whos had his R32 GTSt for years didnt think the original GTR bumpers fitted either until he saw mine. Red17
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Ive got a manual gtst and ive gotta say the performance down low is pretty sluggish. Ive gotta launch it pretty hard to get wheel spin. The RB20 has most of its power at the top of the rev range so you gotta give em plenty of herbs! Most turbo cars are like this because under boost theyre nothing more than a low compression normally aspirated motor... which is well... boring! Its just the RB20 in particular seems to have ALL the power at the top and next to none at the bottom. Ways of improving it? Exhaust system... get a nice dump pipe/front pipe combo, nice fat 3 inch all the way back. Improves midrange performance ALOT. NA motors will usually have better bottom end. I remember driving my pulsar again shortly after i got the skyline and i was amazed at how well it pulled from down low. Whereas im always having to change down in the skyline to keep the revs up in the power band (not all the time, just when im fanging it). I presume the extra cubes of the RB25 would help in the R33's... but ive never driven one to find out. Red17
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Steve, you know what, i have a tendency to agree with that. After all the stupid statements that have come from both sides in the past few days. The one thing we can all agree on is that denver should have kept his gob shut. Hes done nothing to enhance the rep of SW and everything to ruin it. Things would have been better left unsaid. And Denver, im a good mate of yours but, gotta say mate, you ****ed up. As im sure Ivan and AJ will confirm. Red17
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Unless you lot have worked on the motor and seen the damage, dont come on here claiming things you cant back up. Never mind telling the speedworks lads to the truth and cut the bull, how about you lot stop bandying about rumour and heresay. XRW has been nothing but clear on what the problem was yet you lot "from welshpool" seem to be hell bent on placing the blame on speedworks in order to get customers to come to you instead. You're all a ****ing disgrace. Fact is alot of customers still appreciate Speedworks for the work they do, as do alot of C-Red's and SST's customers. In fact Speedworks was open for 96 hours straight last week because they had so many cars they couldnt fit them in the workshop. Steve, if your keeping up with the news lately, you'd know JT has nothing to do with the company anymore (in fact alot of people at SW would love to get their hands on him, but thats another story). You make it sound like JUN is all they ever push.... yet when i walk in there the place is covered in HKS and trust engine parts. As for your claim that no one ever heard of JUN before JT came along, thats utter crap. At the end of the day, the machinist has admitted fault, insurance companies have been involved and all is well. No customer has been left out of pocket and all have been dealt with promptly. Yet i know of plenty of customers who've been left out of pocket from one of the welshpool businesses mentioned. And it aint heresay or rumour. But that would belong under another thread for another day. Red17
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Ken, My car was sitting parked in my driveway 2-3 weeks after it was on the boat. It wasnt complianced and i was driving it on dealers, but still, it was sat in my driveway Red17
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Just to clear things up. Speedworks dont actually have a Dyno. The dyno belongs to Automotive Power Analysis and resides at JRT in Bentley. As for Rob's figure? We were all scratching our heads on that one during the dyno day! It was a freak run which seemed a little out considering the other 30 cars done during the day produced their expected hp figures. Including mine. I dont think the dyno is "high reading" as such. Perhaps a setting was incorrect, we did noticed that it being a hub dyno it was extremely sensitive to diff ratio settings and could calculate way out of whack if it was even slightly out. Oh well, like VSpec says... just as long as you use the same dyno for your benchmarking, you cant go wrong Red17
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tell them to get brake measurements off a 300ZX and ask why you need to upgrade them at all. Red17
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I got my car through PMS and i have no hesitation with recommending Geoff. He is extremely helpful, helps out with weighing up the big decisions. I had the opportunity to bid on my car while i was in the pub watching the world cup. I declined because at the time i was an hour away from my email and he needed an answer. Luckily because the car was so nice, it had a full GTR kit and had leather interior option, his supplier picked it up anyway, and i bought it off him Its a harrowing process, but geoff can help out putting you onto the right people for compliance and so on. Makes it easier. Red17
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I think the calipers are pretty much the same size, they have slightly different exterior appearance. However ive heard the rotor spec is different. Red17
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Yeah thats what ive got at the moment, looks great. But the gaffa tape over the "swiss cheese" holes in the boot is really starting to piss me off Ive put up without it for 6 months, in no real rush to fix it Red17
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Hi all, Ive got a GTR rear wing on my R32 and when the car came into the country it had 2 studs rusted through on one side of it. Making it impossible to mount on the boot obviously. Ive since attempted to put new studs into it and used some of that metal mend type stuff to hold them in. Well after trying to bolt it back on the studs came out of the holes once more. Has anyone had experience with this sort of repair... any ideas how i could fix it cheaply? Thanks Red17
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Thats bullshit, the brakes on an R32 GTSt are the same spec as those off a twin turbo 3 litre 300ZX weighing 150kg more. They are absolutely IDENTICAL. Its overbraked as it is (unless you want to hit the track ) The Perth tech section seems to be much easier to deal with than Adelaide's it seems. Red17
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The flutter ive been told is a bit of pressure hitting the turbo impellers when theres not enough air velocity for it to come rushing out of the bov in a hurry (eg over 3000). Obviously the pressure on the impellers is what the bov is meant to be preventing, however ive also been told at a low RPM its of little consequence. I have a TurboXs BOV that has the same behaviour. Red17
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Us Perthies only have one race circuit, and ive gotta say, it f'in sucks. The track is boring and has corners in all the same bloody direction, bar 1. You can also lap it in under a minute... whoopee. Even if you brizzy guys can get a large club to take over management of the facility to keep it ticking over for the clubbies that would do. Weve got an amatuer circuit down in Collie thats run by one of the touring car clubs. Its nowhere near the spec of Barbagallo in terms of asphalt quality and safety, but its bloody good fun. It would be a shame to lose lakeside, get behind it Brisbane! Red17
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The brand new S-AFC (the one with the knob on the front panel) also allows you to place fuel points at 200rpm intervals instead of the previous 500rpm. Red17
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Always use the best fuel you can get. Whether it be ultimate or optimax or whatever the hell else you eastern staters have (Perth only seems to have Ultimate at BP and Vortex at Caltex). My dad worked for BP for 25 years and has told me that you shouldnt run any car in regular. It is engineered by fuel companies to JUST (and i do mean just) conform to the government standard and no more. That way they make more money. To add octane to a fuel it costs exobitant amounts of money at a refinery level. Some grades of aviation gasoline are merely 98-100 ron fuels with a huge addition of toluene. This is done because its the cheapest way to raise octane. As for what you should run in your car? Well id go with premium no matter what the price. Premium is created from much cleaner source chemicals. Regular unleaded contains alot of bi-products from other processes eg: while in one part of the refinery its considered a waste product, on the other side it ends up being used to make fuel. Premium burns much much cleaner and id run it in ANY car, not just performance models. You may not realise it, but it has the ability to increase longevity in any engines life. Probably less so in imported skylines though because they are built to run 100 minimum. It would be nice to see them produce a high performance fuel, somewhere around the 100-102 mark.... but perhaps they think the market isnt there considering only a minority of us even care about what fluids we put in our cars. Red17
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Apexi Super AFC (Blue Screen)
red17 replied to Zila33's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Is this still for sale? Red17 -
I scored matching Apexi Boost and Oil pressure guages for doing a small website. I no complain Red17
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All respect to summoner, but i hate holdens There i said it... now on with the therapy! Red17
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Sure theyre cheap, but would you trust one? VDO's are reknowned for being rather inaccurate. If you dont trust one, buy a trust one.... oh man that was a lame pun Red17
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Ken, My bro did exactly that on his 180SX and it cost him about 1300 in parts alone for all Whiteline bushes (that did also include uprated sway bars front and rear)... but still its pretty expensive. Results were good but even he admits, probably not worth the money. (Except the sway bars and caster bushes, they rock... but control arm bushes dont seem to do a great deal) Labour is pretty expensive on it due to there being so many you need to replace. We did it ourselves, with a nifty home made bush removal tool.... took us many hours having never done it before. Red17
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From what ive heard of the GT2540, it appears to have an imbalance between exhaust housing and turbine size. It seems the exhaust housing is smaller than you would expect for a turbine of its size. I presume this could create greater exhaust temps and a slightly lower efficency overall? From all reports the GT2530 is a much more balanced unit, while overall being smaller. I suppose it depends on the power your looking for. Id be happy with a 30. Hell, id be over the moon, anyone got one to donate, kidding As for your injector claims Rob, ive been told from reliable sources the stock RB20DET injectors are good for 300 ish hp, i doubt the RB25DET would be any different. Red17
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Ive had 3 come through so far, the 4th is mysteriously missing. I was told 4 years ago that i HAD to have my wisdom teeth removed within 6 months or i wouldnt be able to consume food properly. Thankfully i didnt take the money grabbing pricks advice and instead spent 2 years taking Nurofen once every couple of weeks when my teeth played up. They have come through relatively easily really.... the dentist probably wanted a deposit from me for his next Porsche. Always get a second opinion, they have no quams about taking you to the cleaners and preventing you from purchasing what really matters. Car mods red17
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I dunno about you R33 owners, but the screen on the R32 climate control units is useless. Mine has gibberish on it most of the time. Mate has tried 4 different units in his car, all the same, i think they had a manufacturing problem with the screens (dry joints etc..) Mine will work properly about 3 times out of 100 when driving the car. All the buttons work and everything operates, its just the screen doesnt display properly. Anyone found a solution to this? Red17
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I recently burnt 2 valves in number 6, see thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=9826 My valves were sourced from Nissan in melbourne, you may have to ring around to find some. Ideally ring your local nissan dealer and they should be able to chase them down for you. If not you will have to wait to get them from Japan (might be a weeks wait to come via air freight). They were 55 dollars each. RB20 heads use hydraulic lifters (i remember listening to mine after they put the motor back together, ticking away for a good 15 minutes until they pumped up). Gasket kit was more expensive, cant remember exactly and ive since misplaced the receipt, but i believe it was around the 220-250 mark. Mine was cause after it ingested an electrode off a plug due to excessive detonation running high boost on a stock cooler. Ive since found that the aftermarket management is leaning out the fuel mixture quite badly on higher boost settings (combination of many factors including, Aussie fuel and weather). I hope you get your car back on the road quickly Red17