immacreflections

Swissvax! I have Best of show, Glacier, Shield, Crystal Rock. I also love Naviwax and Bowdens Own Body Wax. I see alot of people mentioning FI's shop and products. Have a look at waxit.com.au Antonio is on this forum i see and is an absolute pleasure to talk to and get help from with great prices on products. Regards, Mitch

Nice meeting you yesterday look forward to detailing the Stagea Im doing a trip in a couple months for a few Muscle car owners, 57 Chev, 69 Camaro, Firebird and a couple others over in WA. Could always squeeze another in

Nice meeting you yesterday, look forward to detailing the Stagea Thanks, Im doing a trip in a couple months for a few Muscle car owners, 57 Chev, 69 Camaro, Firebird and a couple others over in WA. Could always squeeze another in . Regards, Mitch

I have picked the cars and the guys know who they are now. I am after one more car, I would like an R34 Gtr, Is anyone with one insterested or does anyone know someone who might be? Please let me know.

Wrong, NO wax and I mena NO wax is 100% carnauba. 100% carnauba is a solid wax and un-usable for anything other than say a paper weight, you can even buy this from DODO Juice. Companies who say 70% carnauba wax would be 70% carnauba by volume so if you have 200g wax which all waxes are made up of a variety of things and in the 200g there is 80g of actual waxes well 70% of that 80g is carnauba. Or some can play it as out of the 200g there is 30g of wax in there and all of that is carnauba so its 100% carnauba by their claim. Wrong, Polymer sealants, nano sealants and synthetics generally have a LONGER life than carnauba waxes this is why people that know the product generally lay down a coat or two of a sealant then top it with a wax. Synthetics are generally easier to apply but DONT shine as much or give a depth of gloss like a proper wax. You would not use a paint cleaner/pre wax cleaner after wash prior to polishing or paint correction. CORRECT, many people "polish" their car but generally this is by hand with a heavier compound using a cloth and leaves swirls in the paint and rub marks. See my website www.immaculatereflections.com.au to see a proper polishing job and paint correction which multipul types of pads polishes and machine polishers and process's are needed to achieve. Search Opti-Coat reviews online this is a product that will last that long with proper care and i was a non believer until I used it and saw third person reviews on it. Most waxes will only last 2-3 months with regular washing, There was a large sealant test done with a horse carrier sectioned up and around 40-50 sealants applied as directed on the bottle and the ones that lasted longest still only lasted 7 months. Unfortunatly this was done prior to opti-coat being readily available. Search epic sealant test to find it. Please dont take anything i have said as being rude or arogant, I am simply correcting some things you have got wrong. Trying to stop others using wrong or having the wrong idea on car care and detailing. Check out my thread here.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/369354-detailing-and-car-care-de-coded/ ask any more questions if you please. Regards, Mitch

replied replied replied Thank you appreciate it, im in no way computer literate to give you an idea my logo on the site took me 3 hours to figure out an hour of the was just the reflection of the text! yup i suck lol. I will let you know once I offer it as a service could you please send me an email so i can put it in my folder to remember to contact you. Regards, Mitch

This is what i like: Wash Shampoo- Bowdens Own Body Gel or DODO Juice Born to be Mild Wheels- Bowdens Wheel Cleaner, Sonax Full Effect Cleaner Clay Bar- just make sure you use the right bar they come in soft medium heavy for varying levels of contaimination, the heavy will marr your paint and is used prior to a paint correct of a extrmely soiled paint. Polish/Sealant- I dont believe in this polish/sealant polish/wax, get a polish and a sealant not a "one product all jobs" thing. I dont believe in hand polishing because it way to labour intensive and also you will never get the same finish, well within reason, as you do with a machine due to automatically pushing hard. When machine polishing you only apply around 6-8kg of force including the weight of the machine approx 2-3kg push on a scale and see how much pressure that is to get an idea. Wax- Bowdens Own Wax quick easy and great, for a paste wax i love Naviwax which you will find on UK ebay its one of my favorite and also reasonably priced it comes in dark light and ultimate for different paints Hope that helps you. Also i would strongly reccomend visiting waxit.com.au for a microfibre chamois and cloths bowdensown.com.au for their products all can be shipped to your door at a low cost $10 flat fee i believe you save that in fuel and time easily. Regards, Mitch

no worries shoot an email to me.

Thanks Ash, Not knowing alot about the nationals and how they are working im glad to see this as now i can make sure they are members cars that will be in the nationals. Regards, Mitch

Check out my thread i made, this may help you understand better. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/369354-detailing-and-car-care-de-coded/page__pid__5887717#entry5887717 Regards, Mitch

Im a detailer and offering specials to members. Located in Knoxfield but can travel. See my previous work at www.immaculatereflections.com.au , please note im still building the site so not many pics up yet. Regards, Mitch

Email replied to Send information and pictures to the email address listed please Most definatly Your welcome for the explanation, Are you located near me? the bar can be a panel beater job but its extremely easy to sand it back slight bog and h-fill the scratches that have dug in and spray the bar. Give me a call 0432 839 463 and i can discuss further. I would be happy to help and show you also. Removing them to make room for mine yea:P? lol, send me some pictures and we can discuss On a side note WOW plenty of people emailing already! As you guys will know i cant do everyone and have to make cuts as there are many people interested. I will keep everyone posted, if you make it or if you dont i will be in contact with you to let you know either way and possibly sort out a detail special for those who dont. Also add me on FB under the name not company or page Immaculate Reflections thanks and regards,

Hi All, As a new member offering specials to other members, i have started getting questions about what different terms mean ect so i thought i would post this which i put on another forum i advertise on and helped alot of people. Hey Guys, As some people or most people in general get methods, terms, and processes mixed up or incorrect I have decided to do a know all tell all post on the difference and what is what. I will post in the order that I do a car. Wheel cleaning: This is self explanatory. I use a few cleaners, P21s, Sonax, Chem Guys, and use soft wheel face brushes and E-Z reach brushes that have a rubber coated wire and soft bristles Degrease- This is not a “must-do” but I like to use a citrus degreaser on the lower half of the car and wheel wells. I also use a chem. Degreaser on tires to “pull” dirt out from them. DO NOT LET THESE DRY Foaming- Most of you know what a foam is and I do this whilst having the degreaser and wheel cleaner on the wheels it allows it to dwell longer without drying. Rinse- All of the above off and repeat wheel or tires cleaning is needed Hand Wash- 2 bucket method, this is highly recommended though not always a must either I believe “grit-guards” are a MUST HAVE though. Wash top half of car then bottom half after preferably using a different mitt but not necessary. Rinse- Again Clay Bar- This is a special clay used to remove contaminants from your paint and leave it A LOT smoother and nicer. You must use a lube for this to avoid marring the paint and should only be done if you have read and know what you are doing to avoid scratches and marring. Rinse- Yep again Polishing- This is a term to describe the use of an abrasive medium generally in the form of a liquid to REMOVE paint from a surface. This is done to remove the scratches by levelling the surrounding paint to the lowest level. There are many different pad and polish combinations around polishing is as much about the pad choice as it is the polish DO NOT USE MICROFIBRES OR RAGS TO POLISH! THIS IS HIGHLY RECCOMENDED FOR A PROFFESIONAL AS TO NOT BURN YOUR PAINT OR POLISH THOUGH YOUR PAINT! Buff- Buffing is using a cloth or microfiber to remove residue left over from polish, paint cleansers, waxes, sealants and quick details. This is not abrasive nor does it have anything to do with the surface your left with except removing residue. Paint Cleansing- This is not a necessary step but does make a different in the scheme of things. This helps pull out any further residue, oils, and can also help “jewel” your paint or “refine” it to that next level admitably most people wouldn’t tell the difference. It also helps prep the surface for wax and sealants to bond better. Buff- Off the cleanser Sealant- Sealants are generally a synthetic that have a higher bonding and are longer lasting than a carnauba wax but do not have as much depth and gloss. Sealants are generally “sheet” water rather than “bead” Buff- Off the sealant Wax- Waxes can be synthetic, carnauba, bees. , and other waxes, always a mixture the biggest selling gimmick is 70% carnauba or whatever it is a high percentage. Carnauba is like cement when 100% and is not workable nor can you apply it to a car. There are different grades of carnauba but I’ll leave that to another day. Generally that 70% carnauba is 70% by volume which means 70% of the wax content is carnauba which could be only 30% of the total volume or less! Wow now we are under 30% carnauba wax already! Then again some could be 70% of the carnauba is grade 1 white the other is lower grade yellow then the total of that is only part of a mixture that is 30% of total volume so it gets lower again. Key thing with a wax is remember 2-3 microns of wax is all a layer is, most paints from factory are 150-200microns and resprays up to 500microns but normally around 300-400 microns so your wax layer should only be 1/100 of that! That’s why you do two layers to ensure you got full coverage. I try to apply the wax in the direction of the wind or water will bead off some say wanky but I just do. Next step is Buff for a final time. Then stand back review and my favourite thing is getting a bottle of nice water not ****ty mineral water if you have bad tap water use a bottle and pour it gently on the surface to see it sheet and bead off! Any more questions just ask. Ps I know this is a long post but I had to do it Hopefully its left no one feeling or Regards, Mitch

Paint correction is polishing, alot of people confuse polishing, buffing, waxing ect. A proper paint correction is done via machine or hand using a variety of different pads (they come in different types and for different jobs/abrssivenees) and polish combinations to remove marring, scratches, and swirls. See here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/369354-detailing-and-car-care-de-coded/ for more explanation or ask if I havent been clear Im more than happy to help A great example of my work is on my website www.immaculatereflections.com.au go to gallery and check out the Caddilac i did to see what paint correction can do. I also use a special method and application for paint chips which makes paint chips virtually un noticable. PS Very soon i will be offering paintless dent removal so people can get their paint looking perfect and that pesky shopping cart dent can be removed at the same time! Regards, Mitch

No worries guys, Look forward to hearing from you. Also a BIG Thank you to Bec as if it wasnt for her i wouldnt not have been able to organise this, Thanks once again. Send me an email guys regardless i want a beat up car to do a demo on for deisplay purposes, this might your chance to get a complete correction for FREE! Regards, Mitch

Hello All, I am a new member who has joined up after speaking to Bec, who some of you might know, about running a special for the club/forum. I will be looking into advertising/sponsoring the forum also as I already do with USmuscle.com.au and WRX.com.au I am a prestige car detailer located in Knoxfield specialising in custom, classic, and exotic cars. With services such basic details all the way to full paint corrections and repainting and filling all your stone chips! Bec mentioned sponsoring some cars for the National Meet coming up and I would like to throw this invite out to anyone interested to apply. You will get a full detail and correction engine, interior, and exterior! Just for some stickers on your car. Along with a CD and book of the progress and photos to display with your car and keep for your memories. I would like some high standard cars but I am also after one preferably black that has scratched, swirled, marred paint to do 50/50's and before and after of. Check out my previous work at www.immaculatereflections.com.au Please email [email protected] if you are interested Regards, Mitch

Hi All, I am a new member and Detailer based in knoxfield who with the help of Bec will be running member discounts on my services. I sponsor both USmuscle.com.au and WRX.com.au already and look forward to working with SAU. Bec has mentioned the National Meet and spoken to some people about being sponsored, if anyone is interested in being sponsored for the meet let me know. This will include a full paint correction and detail with a detailed picture book of progress from the detail to display at the meet and signage for your car. Please pm if interested. See my work at www.immaculatereflections.com.au look forward to hearing from you and discussing lots of detailing and car care related topics! Ps add us on Facebook search for the PERSON immaculate Reflections Regards, Mitch