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dyl33

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Everything posted by dyl33

  1. dyl33
    I removed my strut brace and noticed this little bit of surface rust on both sides. What would be the best way to clean it up properly?
  2. dyl33
    Pretty sure its not the crimp connection on the pressure line leaking, but the line above out of the reservoir between the hose and hard line. But for anyone interested the high pressure line from the pump to the rack is around $260. Ex japan, and the reservoir hose is around $50.
  3. dyl33
    Ok thanks gtsboy, so I'd have to replace the whole line which doesn't look like a fun job. I'll have to investigate it further, you reckon buying a oem line $$$ if they still make them would be easier then trying to get a local hydraulic to replicate it?
  4. dyl33
    Hello, Looking under my car today and noticed a weeping power steering line at this join, not exactly sure how they go together. Has anyone else dealt with this before, how easily can you replace them? Any help will be appreciated Thank you.
  5. dyl33
    Ok thanks, they offer a bolt-on cat https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-VENOM-High-Flow-Cat-Suits-Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-GTST-GTR-S13-C33-A31-/251462134106 was hoping it might just bolt up and good to go. My current dump pipe is 3" to a 3.5" exhauat, didn't see the 3.5" cats but rather avoid going to a exhaust shop if i can. But 3.5" would be better. 🤔
  6. dyl33
    I've got a xforce cat on the car at the moment which sucks, and i want to replace it with a venom 5" cat which has 3" inlet and outlet. My car has a 3" dump pipe to a 3.5" cat back exhaust, will the cat bolt up fine to the 3.5" catback? And would i likely be able to just bolt it up in place of the old cat without having to modifly the exhaust height or anything?
  7. dyl33
    I've removed mine before and put them back in without to much hassle, can't remember exactly how. Definitely dont need to pull it apart, silly question is the window down when trying to put them back in? Maybe tie fishing line to it and pull it up from the bottom?
  8. dyl33
    Ok sweet as ben thanks
  9. dyl33
    Got the car back from the dyno, had a look at the spark plugs. Brand new bcpr7es were used. What do you guys reckon about the color of the tips #1, 2 & 3 plugs #4, 5 & 6 plugs Thanks 🙏
  10. dyl33
    Haven't had a chance to try it yet but would a high temperature thread sealant be better then teflon tape?
  11. dyl33
    Ok thanks tao, ill give thread tape a try.
  12. dyl33
    Thanks hypergear, shouldn't a inverted flare seal though. And will thread tape stop the inverted flare from seating probly or it doesn't matter
  13. dyl33
    Related topic but I'm not using banjo bolts, using stainless steel 7/16 -24 inverted flare. I know this is pretty basic but im having trouble sealing the turbo oil feed fitting 100%, its not leaking leaking but after a drive there is a small amount of oil around the fitting half a drop or less you can see slight discoloring. First time, I installed it was worse the fitting leaked slighty so removed and found a small bit of grit in the thread cleaned and reinstalled was much better. After a few drives i found again a smaller amount of oil around the fitting, this time removed cleaned and reinstalled a little bit tighter then before and it was much better but again a very slight amount of oil (less then before) (above pic) around the fitting. has anyone else had trouble installing a stainless steel 7/16 -24 inverted flare. How tight are you suppose to tighten the fitting? Or anything else i can try?
  14. dyl33
    All good got it sorted, just had the wrong height adaptor on it. Kudos being the great company they are sorted it out in 2 secs and gave me all new gaskets for having to pull it all apart.
  15. dyl33
    Thanks @hardsteppa yeah I reckon Kudos has made a mistake. It should work 100%. Are you able to get a pic of you spacers/rail?
  16. dyl33
    Thanks for the offer, unfortunately im on the gold coast. But luckily the company that makes the kit is 30mins away so I'll see what they say.
  17. dyl33
    Thanks robbo, yeah maybe I'll have to if there's no other way. but its strange there's a instruction manual to install this fuel rail kit. States 100% bolt on and mentions nothing about shaving spacers down. ?‍♂️?‍♂️ I'll find out more tomorrow hopefully.
  18. dyl33
    Thanks gtsboy worse case I'll do that, but dont really want to have to do that because i payed for a 100% bolt on kit not one thats needs spacers machined down.
  19. dyl33
    Well bugger, I'll have to take them back them. Strange as its a bolt on rb25det kit. Thanks again.
  20. dyl33
    Pulled it apart there's this much up and down movement. Push up. Pushed down. Can i assume that's not suppose to be like that and I've been sold the wrong items. Pic of spacer. Kit is made for rb25det under standard manifold fitment.
  21. dyl33
    @Ben C34 after further inspection i believe thiere is a problem. See pic. There's a decent gap at the top which would allow it to move up, i think this is the problem. Or am i missing a spacer or somthing? The injector kit only works with 3/4 height top feed. I was sold the kit by Kudos motorsport with ev14 1/2 height injectors with height adaptors (short, 14mm) So im not sure if I've been given the wrong injectors or is there an issue the the injector o-ring bosses or somthing else.
  22. dyl33
    Hmmm. It's sold as a rb25det 100% bolt-in kit by taarks. Didnt use much pressure, reg was 15psi-25psi. But it never really built up pressure, just started to hear pssshhhh.
  23. dyl33
    Hello, bad news ? I installed injectors (1000cc top feed) 2-3 weeks ago, All seemed good. Untill today I did a boost leak test and the injector oring bosses have pushed out....wtf Before I go and pull it all apart, what do you guys think I've done wrong for this to happen. Thanks ?
  24. dyl33
    I'm all good thanks
  25. dyl33
    just to clarify because Step 11. is confusing The negative wire gets cut, fuel pump end goes to chassis earth. The other end ecu, goes to pin 86? Becuase step 11 says tape/cap off ecu end??? Like this
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