Mick_o

Yeah I know Dan I've researched these badboys extensively and ive heard alot of guys on evoM say the JB reds are quite lazy in comparison to the DCBB versions but im still undecided as I luv my 270kw stock setup but I want more power (300+kw) but dont wanna sacrifice too much response. Just don't think the green will make the numbers and I believe the reds response isn't that much laggier. Jase was the 8 you went in on E85?

*Sigh* Never considered a map cos im a ball bearing whore But I also love the stock turbo response and the power I make with the response. The HTA red was pretty much the top of my list but

Hmmmm HTZ's now??? Was gunna run an FP red on my evo.. Wonder if I should hold out and see if they HTZ the stock frame mitsu turbo's?

yes I have lol!

-9's CLOSE THREAD! You've heard the suggestions now go buy some 9's!

Swap for immaculate evo 9 seats?

Id say no just go for a bell mouth dump that will be sweet for the stocker mate

Start shopping for 9's then mate

The -9's are garrett 2860 -9 which are the HKS Gt-ss equivalent without the price tag. The 9's on E85 really are as good as you will get on a 2.6L unless you go single they are the perfect balance of response and power for the street

Those tomei turbos are rubbish! got a mate with 1 on an evo 9 (not really the same comparison I know) but the power delivery is very dull to say the least and my evo 9 with the stock turbo feels ALOT punchier and fun to drive. Id say a well setup set of -9's feel really good on the street as ive done a few k's in my dads car with the 9's

Thanks for the tip mate but im kinda after a more "special" Ive thrown nothing but the best gear in the evo and its paid off with my results so far what kinda power did ya bro's 8 make with the kando?

Haha agreed Josh! Then hang the faaaark onto it!

Its definitely not laggy for the power but you think a 200+kw surge of power from 4K-5K would be "driveable?" Lol! I know the dyno only tells half the story as cars still drive different on the road than when they are being loaded up on a dyno, but I think after that initial 200kw WHACK the power looks quite linear and then the "driveability" begins. Awesome result Stao very impressive power & response indeed! Wish you could add some BB billet goodness to an evo 9 turbo for me cos id be all over it!

Good 1st attempt Angelo looks good mate! Hope some of my tips helped you out

Longest tune EVER Nick I think you built the motor quicker than its taken to tune lol looking forward to seeing a dyno sheet too nice numbers so far though mate.

Good news on the gas mate! What kunce though slugging ya that much a bottle especially when it looks like your a regular customer who does a fair bit of welding Im doing some pipework on my dads GTR tomorrow so hopefully I can get some pics up afterwards

Thanks Adam lol That was for a lil factory called the crafty chef that do frozen indian meals. Look into buying your own bottle off supagas Scotty that way they can't rape you for bottle hire My supplier is coregas. +1 for pics of material breaks. Agreed that stainless is a bitch for moving when heated but a back purged lighter guage stainless manifold will NOT crack regardless of runner length. Have a look at the length of the FF manifolds that toxic fab makes for evos outta stainless and he has a lifetime guarantee on his manifolds.

Thats definitely not the case Scotty ive got a toxic fab manifold on my evo which is made from shd10 stainless pipe and it is around 5 years old and was on a race car for 4 years of its life in the US now on my car and its fine because its been back purged. Have you ever seen a china manifold cracked somewhere other than at or near a weld? Wow $300 a bottle?! Find a new supplier mate I get G size argon bottles for $120

I know this isn't lobster back piping but just thought id show what a nicely purged stainless weld looks like these are some of my welds on some pipework for a food factory goes to show you how much of a difference purging makes and how much stronger the welds are and the reason why cheap china stainless manifolds crack

HAHA thanks Johnny well it is what I do for a living so id hope id be good at it lol! To that I answer is the pope a catholic? Cash and beer are both very important parts of my life

^^^LESS SAU & MOAR BIG BRAKE INSTALLATION RYAN! ^^^

Thanks yes they are all just fused no filler wire mate. I weld fairly hot but I move fast as I walk the ceramic (a welding technique) I weld tube at about 55 amps but if you are still learning id suggest around 40-45 amps depending on your welder as some are hotter than others. For welding tube id suggest getting a gas lense as it gives better gas coverage over your arc. No fancy settings just set the right amps (machine pending) I set my ramp up fairly cold at bout 20amp base temp at 50-55amp and I set my ramp down to about 3.5 seconds and my post purge to bout 5 seconds. If you look at pic above you can see where I start to ramp down the amps and continue weaving up the tube. Notice the colour change towards the end where I let the post purge cool down end of the run (the bluey colour) When I purge I run about 5-7 lpm through the tube with basically a hole I stab with my filler wire. Yes I used pickling paste to clean the welds but just polish it by hand with green scotchbrite pads

Heres inside the tube I back purge all my pipe work so there is no dags inside the pipe and when you get full penetration like above the welds are ALOT stronger. I have had my Stainless tube work pressure tested at over 20bar without issue

Installed

This was my 1st attempt ever under the bonnet of my 33 this was a combination of mandrel bends and lobster back as I ran out of bends and done it in a Sunday lol