Mick_o

Thats a very big claim Geoff. So you think the 74mm turbine is still actually capable of pushing 31lb more than its original intended design? Why are BW even bothering with the 80mm Turbine if the 74mm seems to have all the answers?

^^^^ this man is correct. Forget the .92 just get the 1.05. It just works! Gives you room to grow, keeps e map down, will help alot particularly in your situation where you will still be on petrol, Saves modding dump pipes & welding gates shut etc its seriously a no brainer. I can almost assure you Lith will tell you to run the 1.05 too.

Quite often if you own an oil burning PTE & dont have 16× 22 billion micron inline oil filters? There are Johnny that 1's for you ?

Whats your power goal? They all have T4 T/S options mate including borg warner ? Glad you can see the huge error you were about to make haha!

So you have just spent how much on a donk from CRD? You are willing to drop $5K on a bucket of shit snail "to save money because it bolts in?" In this situation you aren't even "skimping" on the most important part of the car which seems to make it even more ridiculous to throw that HKS snail on! Sell your current setup to some other JDM bell end for a hugely inflated price like you are prepared to spend on that prehistoric shit heap...... Realistically it will probably be about $2 or $3K at the most for a new manifold, gate/s and a new dump pipe by the time you sold the old setup. You will probably save $3K and have a car thats faark loads quicker, more fun to drive & more reliable long term because it wont need 100% throttle & 6500rpm to overtake 75yo Mavis in her Toyota Prius on her way to church on Sunday morning.

What size was the oil drain? -10 minimum on EFR's.

Trust me when i say the 1.05 wont be laggy. I have an EFR 7670 1.05 on my Stock motor 4G63 Evo 9 and i make 500nm by 4000rpm & make 250kw by 4500rpm. I know its not the same turbo but it is 600cc & 2 cylinders smaller so on a "scale of things" is very relative i think. As i said save yourself money in the long run by "living with extra lag" its honestly a far better proposition than the abortion you are talking about doing mate! Essentially you are destroying a turbine housing making it not worthy of buying welding up the gate. You will also need to modify your dump pipe as the IWG housing is way longer than the EWG Next question is. How are you planning on controlling boost if you are going to weld the gate shut?

Well you have done a big 180 on the road to a total f**k upville! ? Do it once do it right! Why pay for 2 housings and 2 tunes and manifold modifications etc? Just throw the 1.05 on and save yourself the money and heart ache of doing things over and over again & pulling your car off the road again?

While you are right that the car was running like a turd. I highly doubt the tune touch ups required would have miraculously turned that turbos behaviour around that much. It still had 3.2L worth of donk blowing gas up its ass. Nothing else mechanical was changed between the turbo swap.

Haha dont bank on that with Borg Warner!?

True but that woulda been 200-300rpm at best? Still would never have been in the same realm as the 8374.

6266 .84 Was a laggy heap of shit IMO Still took 4-4200 to really wake up. Same car with the EFR 1.05 8374 combo was on by 3500. Its a Much better turbo. Car drove way better from the basement to the top end of town.

TOO LAGGY! Driven a 6266 on a 3.2L with V cam and it was junk...

Ahhh Fuark what a dope... Missed that bit! ? Well then if 98 definately 8374 1.05 ?

ARP do wheel studs mate ?

Not likely a 7670 would be limited to 350 or 360. My stock donk Evo 9 makes 325kw with 500nm by 4000rpm with 24psi. A well setup 7670 should blow around 420kw "all in" give or take. Id say 8374 if you were prepared to go V cam. But i personally think itd be a bees dick too big for a nice street setup. Though in saying that itd still be on around the same time if not sooner than a set of 9s or 7s ?

Heres a pic just for the bbq warriors & art dealers Benny. What ECU does this big spec GTR run? Im sure the blokes that help build and tune the tilton evo and the various other "fastest cars in the world" were blown away by your 257kw -7 build quality mate? Im sure they were blown away by the fact they had to wind the cas back to pull some ignition timing on your car because they couldnt do so via the ECU? Im sure they were blown away by the 1 "pearl white" mirror on your otherwise flat white GTR also?

I suggest if you wanna be part of this preservation society you are trying to start up you best stop bashing keyboard keys and take to that car of yours with a grinder, a welder, a power wire brush and some rust converter in order to preserve your R33. Best get some more CURRENT pics up in your build thread also to show the world of this "pristine GTR" in its current state that you own. Not the underside pics of it when it was being built 20 years ago like you posted.

Pete doesnt drive his car "on boost" thats why he is looking for more grunt off boost. 800-2000rpm is where this car lives its life. You will only continue to go backwards with "your special requirements" mate. Continually looking for more grunt down low is only gunna shorten your powerband, the life expectancy of your gearbox & genuinely make the car slower overall. Essentially you keep building a slower car because you dont know how to drive what you have.... Your car tears your face off from 3000rpm in 1st and 2nd gear before you pulled it off the road AGAIN to chase more low down grunt... You keep chucking money away at something you will NEVER GET from a GTR. Hate to break it you Pete but you are already at the pointy end of the stick with these types of cars and throwing another bucket load of cash at this thing for very MINOR GAINS is madness. I honestly dont get it... You need to rev your motor MORE than 2000rpm to let the clutch out to move away from the traffic lights? Why do you need more power there?! You will literally be in those sorts of rpm for a second or 2... IF at all? Is that second or 2 of extra power really worth $20K? Sadly you are dreaming to expect anymore low end grunt out of an RB26/30/32/34 these motors simply do not produce the power where you expect it. These motors are short stroke, have low compression, have short inlet runners all characteristics designed for a top end screamer that DOES NOT produce low end torque. You have already defied the odds with what you have now mate thanks to a smart AF tuner & "all the tricks up his sleeve" I say this with the upmost respect for you Pete, but i look forward to seeing the for sale Ad for this car as i think you need to quit wasting your time and hard earnt cash on this car and into something that ACTUALLY satisfies your driving requirements. I think you have been "trying to prove all the internet haters wrong" for far too long now to no prevail. You bought the car with a built 2.6L with a T78.From there to a 6262. Not happy....From there to a 3.2L stroker. Not happy.... Then you added V cam. Not happy.... Then to an EFR 8374. STILL not happy.... Then you upgraded your intercooler and added a drive by wire throttle body to increase response. STILL NOT HAPPY.... Now the car is back at the shop AGAIN and the donk is out to increase the compression and upgrade the v cam cam and exhaust cam and Port and polish the head and anything else that MAY help. Guess what....I dont know if you see whats coming here BUT..... YOU STILL WONT BE HAPPY! I genuinely respect that everybody builds their own ride to suit what they want out of their cars and what makes them happy but if you cant see the forest through the trees by now mate you never will.. You have plenty of dough no doubt. But wheres the line in the sand between dollars and sense? Go buy something that doesnt require you driving 3.5hrs to Sydney and catching planes and taxis back up the coast to take the car back to the shop every 3-6 months because you arent happy with how it performs! Test drives are FREE! Go test drive an R35, Go test drive a turbo Porka, ANYTHING THAT YOU THINK LOOKS THE GOODS! Go buy something that makes you happy mate because clearly the tadpole never will! 1 last thing.... If the E85 at your local servo gets axed which seems likely as you are the only bloke buying it up there... Now your cars gunna be off the road for how many months which means they have now lost their best customer? But now you will have a high comp donk that will ping its head off with FA boost on 98. Its gunna limit you to buying & ordering in drum E85 which makes things ALOT more expensive as your car is gunna hate life on petrol? Just another thing to consider..... End rant/TL:DR......

I think its more the fact its making nearly 200kw and peak torque at 4000rpm and seeing all the boost the match stick 4G rods can take by 4000rpm also. Big turbo behaves small even on a 2L 4 pot.

Price drop! $13500

$14600ono. Car is now on carsales too guys. Check out this Nissan Pulsar. https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Pulsar-2014/SSE-AD-5387668

Ignore the boost gauge for a kick off mate. Get it dialled in and see when it boots you up the ass when you mash the loud pedal. See how it responds to different throttle inputs etc Just burying your foot on the accelerator and waiting for something to happen while watching your boost gauge isn't a good way to gauge how it's gunna drive. Especially if it's untuned.

Lol your car is on stands with its ass hanging out? "But it's running" ? My car was pulled off the road to do a turbo swap. I'm doing the Fab work just like what's happening with Benjis car. WTF has the turbo got to do with it lol? Paul's box hasn't finished being setup just like yours so what's the deal? No doubt when he takes it out you'll get plenty of time in his rear vision mirror waiting for boost to come on ? That's if the 5s live long enough at 26psi. Then you will have to convert your car into a GTS4?

How many blokes do you know with EFR's?Paul? His car runs ?