B-Boi34

Ok so everything you mentioned iv already taken into account except for the intercooler fabrication & the mod plate. So might as well go high mount unless Bunta's friend has the right low mount manifold for sale.

Thanks man, feel free to text me the details, 040 264 6066 wow thanks for the info, will have a good read of this.

Yeah if you could find out that would be great? Is he running an external gate? Reading this it looks like you can keep the factory cooler piping, I know the piping before the turbo will need to be changed. Do you know if the crossover pipe is still used for high mount set ups?

Hi guys Sorry to hi jack this but Im about to change my turbo to a GTX3076R. Going to be running an external gate which means I have to change my exhaust manifold. Everyone seems to sell high mount manifolds, can get one for around $500 that run external gates but no one seems to sell low mount manifolds that run external gates. So I can either change the set up to high mount or pay $1000 to get a low mount manifold made up that will run external gate. So what im trying to work out is whats going to be cheaper, changing all the piping to high mount or just paying for a custom made low mount manifold? Cheers Brody

Im going to have to pay on the day. Will ensure I have the right change. Also just noticed I didnt say plus 1 in my original post, my bad. Plus 1 if its not too late.

Hi guys yet another car has been stolen, this time from the Mt Gravatt area. Its a S13 Silvia with a S15 front end. Please see pictures & give me a call if you see it any where

Im in & hopefully the Link will be in & tuned before then too

He works in the area so has no choice but to leave it in that area. Not sure about the alarm but I know he does have insurance.

Hi guys a mates Car was stolen from Logan central plaza on Tuesday this week. Please keep a look out for it, if you see any thing call 040 264 6066 Number plate is 938JYS Its black, does not have a rear wing, has LED tail lights.

Ok so I also bought a boost solenoid so I can control the boost with the ECU. I was told I can simply cut the wiring for the factory boost controller & wire it to the new boost controller. Has anyone done this before? From memory there are 2 wires that go to the factory boost controller, which one would I use? Thanks in advance

Im pretty sure its 15

So just encase anyone finds themselves with the same issue it was the SMIC that was causing the detonation, apparently its not good for up to 200RWKW as iv read elsewhere. FMIC fitted & no more detonation, it also gave me a 30rwhp increase.

O I just assumed that sensor was what the factory boost gauge worked off. Thanks for the help

Are you refering to the Link ecu? If so I can confirm it is not. It states it comes with a MAP sensor IF the car does not have one from factory. The below is taken straight out of the instruction manual Nissan Skyline R34 GTS The Link G4 Nissan R34 Plug-In ECU supports several options for fitting of a MAP sensor. Any one of the following options can be used: 1. Factory MAP Sensor – The RB25DET factory MAP sensor is suitable for use. It must be re-plumbed to a pressure source that measures vacuum and boost pressure*. The factory MAP sensor is wired to An Volt 3. The factory sensor is good for 125kPa (18psi) of boost. 2. MAP Sensor Wired Through AFM – To avoid running additional wires into the engine bay, a MAP signal can be brought in through the AFM signal wires. The AFM is wired to An Volt 1. Refer to factory wiring manuals for AFM wiring connections. Make sure the AFM can not be reconnected. 3. MAP Via Expansion Connector - The expansion connector provides power, ground, and analogue channels for the connection of a MAP sensor

Hi guys so I just bought a Link G4 for my R34 GTT. In the instructions it states I need to use the standard MAP sensor & just re-plumb it to a pressure source that reads vacuum & boost. I was always under the impression they didnt come with MAP sensors. Can anyone confirm that is does & where its located? Thank you

Ahh dam so no passengers going down the strip. O well will run better times any ways

Sorry if this has been covered already but can we take passengers like Test n Tune nights?

Im in +1

From memory the Helical will act like an open diff, so if you turn one wheel the other will turn the opposite direction. If you turn the wheels on a viscous diff they should turn the same direction. I also have not tested this theory. The other way is check the code on the diff, a viscous is a R200V I think

Ok so I put the car back on the dyno, the timing is set at 15 degrees btdc however it still pings right at the top of the rev range with any thing over stock boost. In fact anything over 6psi. It appears by turbo/wastegate is stuffed as it will not hold boost. Starts at 8psi & drops to 6 but thats a different issue. The tuner recommends I get a FMIC as im still running the factory SMIC. Has any one had this problem before or have any idea what the problem could be?

He isn't my tuner. I just took my car in for a power run & he told me it is pinging. I'm going to check the timing tonight, hopefully thats where the issue is.

I had a good look yesterday & I could not see a mark on the timing cover. Is it possible to run the car on the dyno & adjust the CAS until the knock is no longer there?

Hi Guys I put my car on a dyno yesterday & was told its pinging right at the top of the rev range. Its pretty much standard apart from exhaust, filter & boost controller which was set on 8psi for the run. I suspect its pinging due to the timing being out. The fuel to air ratio was fine at 11.2 pretty much all along the rev range. My question is can any one confirm if the plastic R34gtt bottom timing cover is different to the metal ones previously used on 32 & 33's. The reason I ask is my plastic cover was removed because it warped & was hitting the pulley. It was replaced with a metal cover & im thinking if the metal cover's timing marks are different then my timing would be out. Thanks in advance

PM sent

Ok what about the black plastic trim where the latch is & the rear window washer motor plastic cover?