B-Boi34

Bump

I assume the power figures in the brochure I attached would be power at the fly wheel so the manuals must have a better tune or something that gives it the extra torque. Correct me if im wrong. The diff from the series 1 is Viscous regardless if its a manual or auto. Its only the series 2 manuals that came with the helical diff.

Factory airbox - SOLD HKS bov - SOLD Fog lights - SOLD

PM sent

I truly have no idea but im gonna go with coz manuals are awesome

Ok the tapping noise if fixed. A few of the bolts that hold the tappet cover on were loose. It seems to have helped with starting the car. I havn't had to start it when it was really hot but so far starts within 3 seconds of starting.

Most of the differences I have listed are just things i have noticed as I use to have a series 1 & now I have a series 2. A few of the other things like torque figures I got from this sales brochure R34 GTT Sales Brochure.pdf

Will also accept offers

Hi guys I though I might share this encase anyone ever wonders what the differences are between the series 1 & series 2 R34.

No you cannot hear it over the exhaust. I can only hear it at idle & if I gently rev it the tick gets faster. Normal driving I cannot hear it until im stopped at the lights & the car is idling I will take a vid over the weekend

Ok cool, I will do a bit more checking this weekend around the gaskets. Yes it does as I rev the ticking gets louder. Its running the factory ECU. Only mod on the car is a cat back exhaust. When its warm I open the throttle about a quater way when I start it as per the owners manual. Doesnt seem to make a difference if my foot is on the throttle or not.

Hi guys My R34 has developed a ticking noise that seems to be coming from the exhaust side of the head. I have searched & read as much as I could about ticking from RB's however all the threads are about cars that tick for the first few minutes & then are quiet or they just tick all the time. My car does not tick when its first started & actually only starts to tick once the car is at operating temp. The tick started last weekend after a long drive. The car has just been serviced & has 5W40 oil in it now. Any Ideas on what it could be? My second issue is my car seems to struggle to start when its hot/warm. When I first start the car it takes 1 to 2 seconds of cracking & it starts up perfect. After the car has been driven a bit & is warmed up it takes 5 to 7 seconds of cranking before it will start, every now & then I think its not going to start but it does just gotta keep on cranking Could this be coil pack related because I have been having issues with them. Spark plugs gave been changed less than 1000k’s ago. Thanks in advance for any help

Yeah there is a bit of deflection & so far it seems to still be place not trying to run off like before.

No I did it as tight as the other 2 belts were. Hopefully thats alright.

Yeah all sorted. Was a pretty quick fix. Thanks for the help

Awesome, thanks for the help. I'll go sort that out right now

Yeah not sure if it wasn't fitted properly or if its gradually been moving over, only had to car 2 weeks. Where abouts it the tensioner? Is it easier to go from under the car? Thanks for the info

Hi guys I noticed last night that one of my aux belts is not sitting correctly on the pulley. Can anyone identify what belt this is & advice the best way to get it back on & sitting right. Do i need to remove the pulley? Thanks in advance

Hi Guys Just a few items i need to clear from the garage. Located Brisbane south side Prefer pick up & can drop off items if you are close by. Also happy to post at buyers expense R34 factory SMIC, taken off car at around 80k - $200 R34 factory airbox with new Drift panel filter. No snorkel - $100 R34 factory triiple gauges - $50 HKS BOV with return flow adapter - $100 Blitz BOV - $100 Aftermarket fog light kit, all wires included - $50 HKS Turbo timer - $50 Call or text 040 264 6066 Cheers

Thanks for the info. There is a bolt missing off a heat shield so maybe it came from there. I'll just hook it up to another bolt

Hi guys Just wondering if any one can advise where this wire should go to. As per the picture, the plug in the red box connects to the body work on the passanger side of the car & the I need to know where the other end in the blue box should go. I assume it's just a ground wire. Thanks in advance

I thought it might be R&R. It doesn't have a boost controller on it so should be running stock boost although the boost gauge shows about 0.7 bar. I reset the ECU & also changed the BOV so it was re-circulating again & it seemed to almost fix the problem, now its just a slight hesitation at 4500rpm only sometimes, other times its fine. The re-circulating pipe isn't 100% sealed so I will seal it all up & see if that fixes it.

Did you find out what the issue was? I have a similar problem except mine surges between 4000 & 5000 RPM & then pulls fine from there to redline. It only happens when my foot is flat not at part throttle.

Does anyone know if there is another link to the thread to decode VIN's. The one above doesnt work. Thanks in advance

Saweet thank you