MatthewT85

basically i just jacked the car up high. cause i used my breaker bar to undo the filler plug, its in a difficult position with the exhaust ect, but had the breaker and some other 1/2 tools depending on the position of the plug, its more fidly than anything... and a bit of swearing... you might want to go to supercheap and get a hand pump that can lift the oil from the bottle to the filler plug too, just keep pumping till it start spilling a bit out of the filler and then stop, do it up and youre done... as for oil, like i said above i used that castrol and its been fine. also there is a diy i used somewhere cant find it right now, so ill have a look later and post the link

also with the location of the plugs, the one on on the back is the drain, the filler is on the left side of the diff, inline with the exhaust, can be a pain in the arse to see without getting under the car and yeah its viscous

it could be a little less but thats an approx,i doubt you'd get even 800ml using the drain plug i cant really see how a mechanic would balls up something like that is it the correct weight of oil? i cant tell from the picture it just says ls90 i dont know heaps about cars ect, sort of learning by doing, and reading heaps here before doing... whether there's damage, im not sure, im sure by tomorrow some of the more knowledgeable guys will have some ideas i was mainly just letting you know how much i had used i think you have the right oil, cause i think its roughly 90wish

ummm i cant explain how its driving like that, but i changed mine last month, same reason have nfi when/if mines been changed, plus it began a slow leak out of the drain plug, i used castrol 80w 90 and i just checked the 4L bottle i had and ive used approx 1.5L. i do remember when i drained it, i had driven it, so warm, also after i let most drain out, i put my finger in there and actually managed to get a fair bit more oil out, sort of sticking to all the surfaces i could feel do know what diff it has, does it have fins on the cover?

RRX

ha ha.... oh too true also 31 idea is a very good one

you should consider insurance when deciding as well all those above, including that ferrari will charge you out the arse for insurance.... if i had to get a first car around now... I always like the early 2000 liberties, good for highway driving, leather seats ect... mum had an auto one, id prob try and find a manual if possible, any auto car shits me to tears unless on the highway

hot damn, all that cash moneys

i did my rocker cover gasket not too long ago, was leaking a little as well, not enough to drop down the drive way just enough to look messy, i bought mine from Taark https://www.taarks.com/ you need two gaskets and two half moons(for each rocker cover, piece of piss to install too as for the bolt and washer, maybe ask him if he stocks them too, i think he sells sr ones so might be able to help you out

https://www.facebook.com/uTasAutomotive there's that but thats about all i can think of

ha ha ill keep that in mind... ive seen rush i enjoyed that too, pretty crazy to see the intensity of the racing back then gonna look out for that one on blu ray

Anyone one interested in Formula 1 and Senna in particular should watch Senna, its a great film and talks about that weekend with ratzenburger and how Senna was speaking about not racing to the doctor at the time

yeah definately try putting a funnel in there so it makes it the highest point possible also my brother and i have an ASI rad from ebay so not all of them are bad do you have an aftermarket bar or anything that can block airflow? AC or intercooler with bugs and crap in it?

may or may not help but are you finding the level in the overflow bottle decreasing? my brothers sr20det 180 was having huge heating issues where it was hitting mid 90s on a small 15 min drive home, the level in the overflow was decreasing a bit as well he tried so many things thermostat, new water temp sensor, new water pump as that was leaking... tuner recommended removing ac and license plate for air flow and also putting back shroud. when i drove it to him(tuner) 100ish km away the temps hit 100 and i had to stop. on the drive back after tune it hit 85 once. i was thinking there was still air in the system(thats why overflow was emptying. Cause it was a lot better we got it back took the ac out, bled the system and this time i had a funnel in the neck of the rad and as the water rose i squeezed the upper pipe and air came bubbling out, did this about 10 times air was still coming out... we then stopped drove it and it hit 90C after that was back to 81-82 and since no heating issues, even at powercruise didnt rise so i put it down to flow as well as air in the system, also overflow level dropped once and has been at full since... so just saying air in the system and also air flow can make a huge difference i could be wrong but these things have fixed his heating issue so.... could help others

i just have basic bolt ons... 200rwkw pretty much doesnt move from 80-81C was at powercruise last weekend and it still didnt rise, i have a 52mm ASI radiator with no fan shroud atm only time ive seen it more is up a big hill or if the car has been sitting after a drive then restarted, falls prety quick once i start driving

when you say full 100k service i assume you mean waterpump, and the bearings also? also if youve chaged the rocker cover gasket the oil leak shouldnt be there unless is coming from somewhere else i guess the choice of ecu will be decided when you decide on tuner looks like youve done a lot to cover yourself off

i dont know how to test it, would be good to know if you can, they are cheap though.... but also if your car's a 33 the o2 sensor is in the dump pipe, the one youre talking about is the sensor to tell you if the cat is screwed... sorry i cant be more help...

mods?

dunno if itll make a difference to you but aus day's same day as powercruise, dunno how many of the guys here go

i own a 33 so seems different.... but by the sounds of this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113632-where-is-the-consult-port-on-an-r34/ you might have the wrong area also with the 33 the cel light on the dash is what you use to know what error code dunno if any of this helps try where this first photo is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/196530-greddy-informeter-on-r34-gtt-consult-obd-ecu-diagrams/

just remember also its not in psi if its the stock 33 gauge... but yeah still sounds stuffed or could there be a split/leak in the vac hose? either way i would be getting a new boost gauge

hmmm ok well if you put it all back to the way it was then i got nothing sorry

you said you intalled both the controller and gauge, are you sure you werent running around 10psi before the gauge intall? i mean did you install gauge, drive it to see what it was reading then try the controller? with a fmic and full exhaust my car hits about 10psi then drops to 9psi

S2 R33 GTS-t Pod Filter JJR Return flow intercooler Stock Turbo JJR bellmouth front/dump pipe Venom 100cpsi 5" cat HKS Super Dragger cat back minus mid muffler Apexi Power FC 9Psi(stock boost controller-high boost mod) Bosch 040 BP 98 201.3rwkw tuned by Southside Performance & Dynos

if youre looking for a certain amount of power and to then work out a budget have a browse of the rb25det dyno thread tells you waht others have and what power they achieved...