MatthewT85

well its upto you to decide whether its worth it or not, the stock ecus map is known to be quite rich, so going aftermarket for what you have will allow the cars tune to be altered to get around 20rwkw more, help make the car nicer to drive throughout the rev range and can help with a bit of fuel consumption, but that obviously depends on your driving style... seeing as though you wanted 'a little more go' i think thats your only real option....

well i just dropped off my car for a tune today so will give you before and after figures when i get it earlier this year i ran it on the powercruise dyno and got 177.9 with JJR return flow fmic, jjr bellmouth front dump, venom 100 cpsi cat and hks super dragger catback, minus mid muffler. bosch 040, std ecu i was really surprised with this number so im getting a before done by my tuner too to compare the r33 ecu isnt tuneable. ive gotten an apexi power fc as my tuner knows them inside out, youll have to ask the tuner your considering for their preference. im only running 9psi as thats what my stock boost solenoid. if youre lookiing for reliability i wouldnt go above 10 - 12psi... i think 200rwkw is more of a reasonable target, im only really looking at anything around 180 - 200 for the mods we have its more about making the power throughout the rev range better rather than a high number

yeah i assumed that was the reason why you made this thread with that idea, and its also why i found it a little interesting...

thats a good point if its about your car being too loud there are ways to make it quieter. i have a jjr front/dump into a 5inch venom cat to a 3inch hks super dragger mid muffler removed and its quiet, (quiet by skyline standards)

im gonna have to agree, by my maths if its right at this time of the night... the muffler(your quote) is 20cm and its a 3 - 3.5 inch system, the muffler is going to be about 5cm higher and lower... my front pipe used to scrape on certain ramps bumps so i raised it, now my cat is a 5inch it scraps if im not careful.... thats what im gathering from what youve posted i am happy to be proven wrong though cause it is an interesting idea

for stock r33 turbo, factory runs 7psi. can be a little higher with bolt ons, mine runs 9 with turbo back and fmic. max boost on a stock turbo is around 12psi, there is boost cut on stock ecu but i cant rememeber what it is im sure others will be able to help more.

yeah def had a good look and i never see the point in htat jet

theres 161 laps still to go

i always love the top 10 shootout

that lap by the gis...

good picks, its really tough to only pick 3... forgot courtney was with murph till early today, theyll be there maybe 3rd/4th.... i think you cant discount whincup and dumbrell.... XBone cars looking good, prob top ten is possible

doesnt sound to be too much of an issue, my car runs between 80 and 85 normally round town, dont know about ac cause i dont use it. that day you have is hot so i dont think you have to upgrade cooling... but i guess others will have better input, my car only has FMIC and Turbo back so could be different. gonna suck, but what does it run on the same day without the ac on?

ummmm is the temp changing at all? as in if you go hot and turn it down does it get cooler, mine(r33) stays hot all the time cause of motor that adjusts the flap to control the temp is stuffed, dont know if its the same in a stag or not, have you tried running the air con diagnostic?

yep thats exactly how mines done

yeah you only really have to take off a small triangle on either side of the bottom part of the reo bar for the cooler, cutting of any part of the body is defectable as far as i know, its obv something you cant hide when theres a hole in front of the fuse panel area, like i said if you get defected for the reo bar, you can take it off and replace with an untouched one....

like a dremel just diff brand i went with ozito, allows you to cut plastic and stuff, if you get one just becareful if you cut too slow i think if causes the plastic to heat up and melt a bit, but too fast and you break the bit, they give you heaps so i just learnt... http://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-170w-42-piece-rotary-tool-kit_p6290175 thats the one i got, and yeah like scotty said, i went with a return flow type so i didnt have to cut a hole in the body, i know cutting the reo bar is defectable, but at least its fixable also its hidden a little

i did mine myself, JJR return flow type, i bought a rotary tool from bunnings to cut the front bumper which was pretty easy once i got the hang of it, the bits can be easy to snap if you are learning... i wasnt comfortable cutting the reo bar and so got an exhaust shop to do it, so only really ended up costing under a hundred, and i have used the rotary tool for other things, so found it worth buying... have no idea how much someone would charge but it took me 2-3 hours, obv first time and taking it slowly, and extra slow on the front bar(cutting bits away slowly) it really is an easy thing to do...

so.... did you end up having pics of the tomei strut brace?

my brother got that email, hes thinking of getting cause its so cheap

there are heaps about intercoolers around but the two most use are Just Jap or Blitz...

cool cheers

yeah i noticed a post on a facebook page thats a distributor for rota... i guess its mainly cause theyve put "rota" on them... but yes i laughed a bit

the tomei strut brace is that for a 33 gtst or gtr? and do you have pics?

ha ha yeah no probs, the only reason why i found it was cause i posted in it, otherwise i would have nfi how to find it

thats alright only reason i knew about it was that guy posted the question and i had just installed coilovers