MatthewT85

looks like its more work than i though

right... i replied to the other thread, with the same answer as above... just didnt have a link...

mine do that too, im pretty sure its something that was done from factory, when i got my skyline i was told by the putting my car through pits that both had to be on, i argued it with him saying thats how it is and he went and looked it up, they both dont have to be on, i did search on here incase i did have to fix it, i think you have to do some soldering in the steering column if you want both to stay on

i know this is years old, but does anyone else know for sure whats an option to replace the cts sensor in an r33 gtst? will this one work? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Genuine-INTERMOTOR-Nissan-Skyline-R33-GT-R-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-/121056444459?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2f86c02b its says nearly every other nissan except gtst also i am gonna ask the seller, just cant remember my login and password atm

pretty sure its your bov venting to atmo... lots of threads on it https://www.google.com.au/search?q=ssq+atmo+bov+stall+skylinesaus&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a#safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=G9J&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&q=+site:skylinesaustralia.com+ssq+atmo+bov+stall+skylinesaus&sa=X&ei=77RxUc_YEem0iQeUo4GQDA&ved=0CDwQrQIwAA&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=bv.45373924,d.aGc&fp=9a28c6fed00070f7&biw=1920&bih=890

my brother showed me one on redit that had 2j - 1j - rb - sr sr always last...

yeah ive cleaned all those and also cold start valve, and never really made it go back to normal... i always just blip once or twice, just would be nice to have it back to what it was meant to be

took a week to go back to crap

ah ok well i wasnt 100% but yeah thats the only thing i could think of as its the only time my gauge went crazy had been fine as soon as i plugged it back up... must be something else then now i want to know what it does

i removed mine when i did my coilovers and went for a drive and my fuel needle went to empy plugged it back up and it was fine, so i assumed it was the fuel gauge sensor or something, but not completely sure

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/420332-sau-tasmania-stickers-round-2/ post in there you might have more luck

yeah it kinda does but there are two screws on either side which screw them up into the quarter panels which holds it in place, and on the bottom side if you still have your splash gaurds, i think they are called will screw into the bottom of the bumper but i dont think that really matters too much its more connecting it to the reo and into the panels

if that is your reo bar it looks uncut to me i like most to fit an fmic had to cut little triangles out for each side of the core cause the reo bar wouldnt fit back on without, the only other bits i had to cut is on the front bar, i had to cut the black plastic stuff thats in the large center hole and abit from the lower left and right duct under the fog lights

there looks like theres nothing wrong with your reo bar, the front bumper on the sides screws up into the quarter panels, and there are no supports on the bottom, there is the plastic liner that screws into the bottom of the bar though, but not structural, the only bit that really needs to be modded for a fmic is the part where the core may hit it, i have recently done my fmic so i sorta remember what it looks like

i cant help you out with your issue, but it wasnt too bad to read prob could have used a paragraph or two though... i had my timing belt and water pump ect changed cause it was leaking and ive noticed a similar sound to yours, its on that side but cant tell if it up high or down near the pump, i tried chagning the fluid and it didnt do anything, i have no idea atm might have to go back to the mechanic, he did think it was the fluid. dont mean to highjack is your battery all good? have you tested it? although if its still starting that prob isnt the issue

pretty sure most cars disconnect the parcel shelf light when there is a spoiler light, thats what i always thought, cause it would look crap if both are going, or something...

ummm so has anyone here actually managed to fix their problem? mine was getting pretty bad, would have to hold the throttle a bit longer on start up or sometime stab it twice... i changed my powersteering fluid the other day cause i thought it was causing a weird noise... and now my cold start issue for the last two times i have started yest and today have been fine :s i have no idea how it would make a difference on start up.... the only other thing i have done is change timing belt and water pump, but it was still rough on start up for the last two weeks before i did my ps fluid its still not 100% as in when i bought it cold start would his 1500 and stay there, now it will go to 1100, maybe i just need to adjust the idle as well, we'll see....

saw your photos on instagram, i like the first pic, maybe more than some aftermarket gaurds, in the second it looks similar to how some lift the rear of the bonnet, but i think thats the angle, i think the gap would look a bit weird, if you could get round that i think it would be awesome

i do but from what ive read i think its different from 32 to 33 but not 100% sure also on a side note does anyone else have issues with the notifications from this thread? it shows me notification but its title is %4$s and goes to a 'bad' like page.... weird

want to do a powersteering flush... or more was told i should, to do it i was told to remove a hose put it in a bucket and then have another hose sucking up the new fluid untill the fluid going into empty bucket looks clean, unsure which hoses to disconnect, so was searchinga round and looks like i should remove the return to the reservoir put that into a bucket, and block off the reservoir and top up the reservoir while turning the steering until it comes out clean does that sound right? best way to do it?

yeah no problems

do you mean the bit the top of the spring sits in and then bolts into the car i have my 33gtst standard shock/springs rear springs are hks that im not using one of the studs if thats what its called on a rear one spins freely/ isnt fixed so you cant tighten the nut on it dunno if it ccan be fixed just read your other thread, they are what you wnat i just have them all in one piece

cheers ordered on tues night, and arrived today(express post) thanks

hi looking to buy one today/tomorrow how much would postage be to launceston tas? and is there anything else you recommend while the belt is being done?

hi in the final step, says 12 but im assuming its 13, it says to use threadlocker on the crank bolt, going through the pics it doesnt look like its ever taken out...