MatthewT85

R33 S2 rb25det -bosch 040 -JJR front dump pipe -5" Venom highflow cat -3" HKS superdragger catback, minus midmuffler -JJR return flow front mount intercooler -stock turbo -stock ecu BP 98 Ultimate 177.9rwkw powercruise dyno

ha ha i was annoyed already at having to do it twice! 5 would make me crack the shits! but i used the ultra grey and it would perfect. had no problems at powercruise

thatll be fine....

yeah cool that makes sense

oil really, hmmm now i wonder if he did that or not...

yep those need draining my bro blew a turbo, and engine, turbos easy, ended up doing 3 ish times, you get good at it... engine on the other hand, he had a mate that has done it a few times, i wouldnt do it myself

yeah cool thanks, looked on the site sounds good

hmmm so i changed my thermostat and bled the system ect ect, then went for a drive and then looked under the bonnet to see that coolant was coming from between the thermostat housing and block, so looks like the gasket sealant i used didnt work/i didnt use enough. http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex--aviation-form-a-gasket--no--3-sealant-liquid-detail that is what i used, left it overnight and then filled with coolant. cause i have to do it again, should i use that stuff again? i also have this: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Permatex-High-Temp-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker-Red-85G.aspx?pid=114981&menuFrom=51001#Cross which would be better, i found that the first stuff i used, you couldnt use alot cause it would just drip, sort off cause it was too much like a liquid...

true, sorta just noticed he didnt know what the pump was and thought that was the issue, i also didnt realise he was getting an awesome amount of kms to the tank!

just to clear it up im on 98 not 85, also what the above guy said could be right too, i didnt realise you were making that many kms per tank as is, my car untuned with the 040 is getting 360-380 per tank, filling up early cant remember what i was getting from a full tank... but the 360ish means about 11.5L/100kms... so yeah i think the post above is right, fuel gauge

doubt stock could.... if its only happening when its getting below 1/4 then just fill up earlier, i can run under a 1/4 but i dont have anything to monitor what my fuels doing, running lean ect, also it depends how low the pump is mounted, i think its best to find out what you have... cause without knowing exactly it could be something else. if you compare stock, or walbro pumps vs something like a bosch you can see why it cant pick up fuel low in the tank

im guessing its something like a bosch or something and cant pick up right from the bottom, i had to change my pump (stock) to and 040 (my decision) kinda overkill atm cause im not pushing tones of power but it sounds like that could be happening to you, but i guess others can help out more, you prob need to find out what pump you have

pretty sure mines like that, i was gonna double sided tape it jsut havent been bothered... might do it befreo it gets worse though

is it enough to drain it through the radiator drain or do you need to undo the bolt on the side of the block?

yeah figured id do that, by this do you mean drain coolant fill with demineralised water, drain again,l then fill with coolant and demineralised water?

so instead of making a new thread thought i might try here for some answers i never really knew exactly where the temp gauge used to sit but i thought it was just under half, but i had noticed it was getting to just over half, so i checked in the engine bay notice coolant leaking from the top rad hose coming from the plenum, took it off and it was rusted, got that replaced, still is just over half, temp gauge, so looking into it more and noticing after a drive the coolant level in the overflow doesnt move, theres coolant in the rad. today when i looked, i noticed some white stuff on the radiator around the rad cap, also there was a slight hissing from the rad cap, so cleaned it drove to buy a new one, got home and it wasnt making the noise and no leaks around there, so just wondering if the fact that the coolant level in the overflow not moving is a sign of air in hte system, i am going to replace the thermostat and change coolant and rad cap just wanted to see if anyone knows what it might be thanks

r33? mines doing the same too

installed my return flow fmic wasnt too hard just takes a lot of fiddling around, doesnt help being massively hungover... pretty happy with it just went for a drive and pretty surprised by the temp diff on either pipe. next to change my thermostat and coolant then onto powercruise

The temp meter does not exeed the normal position, so it does not seem to be running warm. On the other hand, i saw the temperature sensor is in the top hose, so it does not measure coolant coming out of the engine, only that going in. ummm cant really help you too much, hopefuly someone can, but the top radiator hose, one where the temp sensors is is where the coolant comes out of the engine and into the radiator. Im pretty sure thats the way it flows...

Ah k yeah I get what you mean, should have thought about that, thanks Didn't think it would go too crazy, just read things about having too much boost on stock ecu, but I guess it's people turning it up themselves

so currently my car has a turbo back exhaust and pod filter and boost hits about 11psi and drops to 10, im about to install a jjr return flow intercooler will it make the boost go up again? I know the stock ecu has a shit fit if theres too much boost, should i get a boost t to prevent that from happening? or should it be ok...

yeah ive read that, i thought oil would be the change just checking, been a bit paranoid...

ok so previously i had been getting a mechanic to change oil, i think they were using penrite hpr 15 oil, which i think is 15w - 60, was talking to my bros tuner and he recommends castrol edge 10w - 60 so when i decided to do the oil change myself switched to that. i have noticed with old oil, when cold start it would be at 6, warm 2, cruising 4. switched to new oil and cold start is just about 4, warm 2, cruising somewhere around 4 is this down to difference in oil? or has gauge randomly stuffed itself, or could something be wrong???? also all on stock gauge... also changed fuel filter at the same time, but doubt that matters

so about to do an oil/filter change on my car, was wondering what everyone uses to remove the filter, mine was previously done by a mechanic, so who knows how tight its on.... i went down to supercheap and have seen things like these... http://autotulsablog.com/wp-content/uploads/store/products/thumbnails/1366600846836841.jpg http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Super-Works-Oil-Filter-Wrench-Cam-70mm-76mm.aspx?pid=13035#Description http://www.apextrading.co.uk/media/catalog/product/s/t/strap_filter_wrench_1_1.jpg im kinda leaning towards the first option, cause it looks like it would work best...

ah oh well yeah not bad, took it to rons and he managed to take out the old piece and got midas to make up a new piece, now no leaks so its all good, heaps easier than having to replace the whole thing! now im just waiting for my thermostat to arrive and then im doing oil, fuel filters before powercruise...