MatthewT85

It's interesting seeing your results. I have atr43ss2 with a cooling pro return flow and the first time I had it tuned it made about 280. Not long after getting it back it started knocking coming on boost. Took it back and 4 degrees of timing was taken out to keep it safe. Bringing it back to 250ish. Apparently it just couldn't take sensible timing and had high IAT. Wondering if it's same issues. Also i had a gasket fail too, but it was the manifold one, was some cheap shit one and studs were finger tight

Na I still wish Maldonado got the seat

Ha ha thanks I'll.keep that in mind

yeah i ened up not doing them, for my needs atm stock lines will be more than enough

Yep thought so. Thanks Another thing that just pictured to me. I installed split fires before going back to the dyno and I just installed them and started driving it. Was I meant to change any settings in the ecu? I've seen stuff about split fire "charge times"? Is it like injectors and how they need to be set up correctly first

i dont know exactly how a CAS works so from a bit of searching around, most cas issues mean the car wont start at all. if i were to buy a second hand cas and swap that in, the only way to rule it out would be to chuck it back on the dyno am i correct? i am keeping the CAS high on the list as many have mentioned it, although when i asked my tuner about it being a possibility he said it COULD be the issue although unlikely as he said "there was no trigger miscounted" and "the consistency of the issue across the entire map under load"

Ah k well the afr were all good

do you mean if the afr was fine or rich then there isnt an issue with fuel system(injectors, FPR ect)

Yeah that's my thought too as it looks like it was actually 3 pc richer than the initial tune.

sorry does that mean it would be pretty obvious if there was a problem with fuel system and its most likely not the issue?

It is a jasma one. But I feel it's odd that I was making the power with the cat back already

He did mention he took a bit of fuel out of the map as the afr was a touch rich. Would that rule out the fuel system? I didn't ask either but a pressure gauge in the fuel line would tell whether there was an issue in the fuel system wouldn't it?

Ok I don't think I had the issue as I would have noticed when I went to put the gasket on. No I don't know how much timing is in there before after the change. I may have to see if I can find out tomorrow.

Yeah same tuner. I do.t really have anything to check pre and after cooler. Yeah jjr bellmouth dump venom cat hks superdragger cat back

So in February I had my car tuned making around 280rwkw. The car drove fine maybe a little carp down low, which I thought was the vct plug needing replacing. The car then began flashing the cel/knock light. Replaced the vct plug and took it back to get the tune looked at. I've been told the car can't handle timing above 10psi and 4 degrees of timing was taken out anywhere above 10psi. IAT were mid to high 50. Don't know if that's an issue. Car has Hypergear atr43ss2 Top feed rail with 1000cc xspurt Jjr return flow cooler Haltec platinum pro Any reasons why a car would be fine with the timing then after a few months hate it. Tuner thinks the 98 down here is bad but I can't see why it would be that bad/different

Yep bosch I had to change mine a few weeks ago

thanks guys ended up finding a couple of spare bolts from my top feed rail that fit the holes. Managed all four discs and pads over the last couple of days, rain, darkness and the one stuck disc made it more than a day, as well as taking my time on the first one. but overall pretty easy job. Thanks for your advice and esp thanks to Johnny and STT

So managed fronts yesterday. Drivers side was stuck but improvised with a clamp to get the disc off. Tried the rears this arvo. Rear left easy. Rear right is stuck and giving me no love. So I'll prob need to get some bolts to screw into the two holes do you guys know the specs on what I'll have to buy?

two or three? this week, brasil and abu dhabi? also i guess nico... as i think its the lesser of two evils... i mean i used to think nico was alright, but his driving this year has seemed like he doesnt want to win...

awesome, i think one last thing, the brake pad paste, does it do between pad and shim, AND shim and Piston or just the pad and shim?

So I've decided to install the pads and discs myself after looking at guides. Is the caliper bolts torque spec the same for gtr as gtst? Guide says 92-118nm

Just received my brake pads from Johnny today. Now just waiting on my discs to arrive

I did struggle a bit

I have just looked at an old thread of yours johnny and someone suggested having the car at idle and applying direct power to the solenoid using a battery or something to see if the idle changes, could this be a good test to try before playing with the haltech settings?

thanks, will it be ok to drive around with the altered settings? also if i wanted to test the voltage at the plug after changing the settings, would i just have the car idling at operating temp and use a multimeter, or do i have to have someone put it in gear and clutch in?