MatthewT85

So this is what it's at atm. What I'm trying to do atm is just work out it it's the settings that's been missed. Or whether I have an issue with the wiring. I just want to make sure it works so it can be.put on the dunno to be set correctly

Thats good to hear!, looks like the bigger disc/cooling ducts are making a big diff, Yeah I had my Brakes go dead after 3 laps at Symmons. Im not chasing lap times, but just want something reliable. Do you guys think its worth swapping to braided lines as im redoing pads and discs?

Well I did have a chat to Dose Pipe and he helped me where he could which was awesome, so will wait till the pads arrive. I'm still waiting for a quote on RDA's before I decide RDA or DBA... Then I'll prob get a mechanic to do the install and touch up the tune at the same time, and report back on how it all goes

Ok thanks guys I guess ill hunt around for RDA part numbers to get quotes too.

Need New Brake Pads and Possibly Discs Hi Guys, So looks like my brake pads are cooked, left side has hit the indicator and is squeeling like crazy. They were Bendix Ultimates.... Was recommended years ago but Im not getting them again... Anyway I have been looking into the brake pad thread and it looks like the Intima SR's are the go for me. My main issue is with the discs, I think they need to be replaced as well, will measure soon. What I have narrowed it down to are DBA rotors. Now Ive seen DBA 4963s for fronts and DBA 4908s for rears. But as I was reading more, esp a more recent thread which said slotted rotors arent necessary. So question to go Slotted or not, through brakes direct it looks like the difference in total would be 118.40 and would these pads and rotors be a good choice, if not open to recommendations .... just realised mainly daily, with maybe odd track day, but not hardcore lap times

Yeah fortunately my cousin has foxtel and I have one of his foxtel go passes so I watch it.on my laptop or connect it to my tv...

Also is that a g27 or g29?

That's a good setup I've been recently thinking about getting one for my xbone and had found a template for one out of timber

Yeah it wasn't set up as it looks like it wasn't working when I dropped off my car. So I'm gonna attach a new plug and hopefully that's the issue.

So I've tested the solenoid and it's clicking. Next thing I'm gonna do is cut and solder a new plug on as it isn't staying attached and might be the issue. Stupid question though. As I have to solder extra wire on so it still reaches the plug I went to buy some. The wire had 10 amps on it. Other option was 25 amps. Is the 10 amp wire ok to use?

ill have to check if its set correctly. it should activate just off idle and deactivate around 5k? correct? when i rev the car it has to be in gear? another thread i read said it didnt activate without it in gear or something yeah thanks the gate is set to roughly 3mm when you say take it out, do you mean take the vct solenoid out of the head and wire it directly to a battery? Also does it matter which pin is pos and which is neg?

So installed xspurt 1000cc top feeds with top feed rail from scotty, Hypergear ss2, int gated, Haltech platinum pro, return flow cooler Now when I had it tuned it made 281rwkw @17psi but full boost was somewhere at 5400 when I mentioned that it should on sooner the tuner had said there was something odd with the VCT when he was trying to set it, he thought it could have been a timing issue, so I had him check that(it was all fine) he then later contacted me and said it was the wastegate not set correctly, set it and then sorted the mid range, boost at 4400. Now everything I've seen about the ss2 can have full boost at around 3800rpm, so it now has me wondering if there could actually be an issue with the VCT itself.(if VCT can help boost come on) So have been searching on here about VCT and looks possible that my VCT is stuck as its giving me good top end but possibly poor low.... I disconnected the VCT and drove it and it feels the same, but I am unsure if it feels the same because it was faulty before hand and has been tuned around it... The plug itself needs replacing as it doesn't clip on, I used a multimeter at the plug, car on, positive on one pin and neg on chassis and then other pin and chassis and no change at multimeter. Did it hot and cold if that makes a diff. Have I done it right? I assumed the positive wire was constantly on and neg switches on/off , so at least one of the pins would be giving me voltage. I have to take the car back at some point to sort something else out but just want to see if there is anything I can do to ensure its working or not.

i havent really looked into it so you might have to look around but id assume it would be like any aftermarket gauge, power and ground for lights and i guess tap into somewhere for the revs, im pretty sure there's a few pages on here about it (i wanted to keep the tacho working cause its big and in a good spot)

thats similar to mine, tried to replace the resistor and solder anything else up and it still didnt work, gave up and bought a second hand cluster and swapped out the tachos, now its all good, i guess depending how long this one lasts for... when this fails im just gonna go aftermarket

sooo.... halo protection was chosen...

yeah everyone had said the 3 stopper was better and they gave the lead driver what they though was the best strat and the other the alt and just turns out the latter was better... is that why they dont allow alternate strategies at merc?

Verstappen 4th and kyvat 13 and sainz 8 thats gonna hurt daniil

i think the issue is people are lazy, they'll scroll see FS and then thats it, post WTB in there... moving Wanted to Buy up, above businesses and below FS OR your idea of moving it to a sub section of FS that would work a lot better. for problem 2 i thought traders already could post normally... but if they cant atm i think its fine for a trader to post their products as suggestions, i think they just have to be careful of product bashing to push their own, it should only be about their own product. my 2c edit: possibly where latest discussion is on main page, putting latest FS and latest WTB below if possible in the same way that latest discussion page works

yeah didnt take them long to give him the shaft

to bleed my system i usually jack the car up pretty high eg so i can get under the car, then put a bottle in the neck and run the car. no a hundred percent sure its necessary but i also have the heater fan full and hot.

yeah so just bolt those on and see how you go, i really doubt you'll see any real gain by adding an EBC to that list,

just my opinion i wouldn't bother spending that much money on an EBC just to run it at 10psi mines a 33 had JJR front dump, HKS super dragger cat back and a venom cat and a JJR return flow and pod filter and the car was already at roughly 9psi with stock ecu that was roughly 177rwkw i then got that tuned with a PFC and it was 201rwkw edit: possibly doing it again i might consider a boost t, but only cause theyre 100 bucks... but doubt it would make too much difference

i liked first and second parts of quali, but yeah third was shit... also alonso with fractured ribs and no race this weekend...

should make the 280 pretty easy, only just got mine finished a month ago and with the ss2 managed 280 @17psi

yeah thanks man, i found the old banjo bolt so should be the same