MatthewT85

cheers guys, she started up today and idled pretty well... one other thing though, looks like theres a small oil leak from the oil feed line on the block. it was a while back that i did that one up so im letting it cool down and will see if it needs tightening or i cant rememeber if theres a crush washer on it or not, if theres meant to be one, what size is it so i can just go buy one without taking the fitting off and going to nuts and bolts...?

so ive been sent through this for the injectors but the haltech has more voltages not listed do i just try and input something inbetween the two voltages either side? and also im assuming its just the first row i look at 43.5psi?

Yeah I have the map hooked up to the manifold. Ok I might have to look at the injector latency

so i have just installed: Top feed rail with stock FPR Xpurt 1000cc injectors (short) Hypergear ATR43SS2 Haltech Platinum Pro Mac boost solenoid wired up (but vac lines not connected up) wastegate connected direct to cooler piping. went to fire it up today to bleed coolant ect. can hear the pump prime, turns over fine, starts runs for couple of seconds then just dies the map i used was "pro_r32r33-133_rb25_ve" but changed the injectors to 1000cc i do have parts of the dash out from when i was trying to fix the tacho but everything vital should be plugged in... fuel might have been low, but i just put in 10L just incase... might put more in soon as well... not sure what to check.

so turns out my water line follows a different path, i seems to come out of that rubber hose then bend down at roughly 45 deg angle then flatten out and go round the corner... the bracket is then not located where that one is, its hooked on the 45 deg part and attached to either the first or second hole under where that rubber hose is in that pic... so there was zero chance of me getting to it, if it was exactly like that pic it actually wouldnt be a problem... so now i think im gonna have to make do with the hard line...

that second pic looks different to mine, it just goes straight into the banjo fitting. but that bracket doesnt look too bad to get to, but dunno prob a bitch with teh engine in... i think ill just make do with the hard line and get the my mechanic to put a line in if need be

hmmm seems like itll be out of my reach in my garage, i am now gonna do it slightly differently as a temp solution, as the guy at enzed wasnt sure if the compression fitting would seal against the steel line... im now gonna cut the line, flare the pipe, put a small section of rubber hose on and the small section of braided line will have a barb to go into that... hopefully it gets me going

bit of a thread dig but oh well, is appropriate. so im installing an ATR43SS2 into my 33 and I have an issue with the stock feed line(the one that goes to the back of the engine) touching a bolt and the exhaust housing and also not being able to fit the water return line.... I am about the take the turbo out and rotate the core a little to see if it works seeing as though heaps have fitted them no problem. but im also thinking of going to braided line cause itll be heaps easier in the future... my question the return line should be easy enough as i can access turbo side and the side on the block no problem. for the feed which is a hard line that goes to the back of the engine and i cant see a connection point is it ok to cut the hard line with a hacksaw or something and fit a socket compression sleeve and fitting as in this vid i found?

ok i think i get what you mean, take the turbo out and loosen bolts on both sides, intake and exhaust, and that will allow me to rotate the core on its own but the actuator will keep the two sides in the correct positions? I guess ill rotate that side pictured up about 10mm and try again, that does sound like it will help with the other side as the line sits ALOT lower and from mem the side i could connect was higher. Currently its all set at 12-3-6-9, if you look at it like a clock I guess its just something ill have to try.

hmmm ill have to look at it again tomorrow and try that line again, i guess ill have to look at the other one and see if theres a way to get it away from the bolt too

Gonna bump this cause I think it's relevant So I've been installing my ss2 and have an issue with the water lines. The one on the engine side. I assume is feed is touching a bolt on the turbo. Will this be an issue? Vibrations etc. The feed on the body side looks like it doesn't reach AT all. I'm thinking I'll just get a braided line made up cause it'll be easy to get too. Or I just realised above has said to attach to turbo first. So my question really is about the one on the engine side. Or how do I go about.connecting a braided line to it being that the line runs to the back of the block.

Ah Damn guys I literally just bit the,bullet and bought one thurs night....

yeah i was quoted 112 plus shipping from the one i linked. and haltech ones are 150 might have to look around a bit more also i received the stuff i ordered, earlier this week... thanks scotty

Hi so sorting out the parts I need for my car R33 GTST Going to go to Haltech ATR43SS2 Top Feed Rail with Xspurt 1000cc(short) injectors Im looking to run the boost control through the Haltech rather than run and EBC. Ive seen heaps of posts about just getting a MAC Valve and the required part number: 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA but I can only see ebay listings from America and would prefer to buy localish. Ive now come across Pneutech.com.au and have looked at their brochure http://www.pneutech.com.au/images/pneutech/products/valves/pdfs/mac_valves_broc_lr.pdfPage 27 but the part number is slightly different: 35A ACA D DBA 1BA. would that still be the right one? Or do you guys have some different options which would do the job. Links and part numbers would be great Thanks!

any idea on when we can expect results for the new ss2, and when its available? my turbo is dead and looking to replace it, wondering whether i should wait for this newer one or just get the current one

So after being recommended to go top feed rail, injectors ect instead of buying side feeds... Im now looking at the issue of the FPR. Scotty sells a stock FPR adapter, has anyone used or know of anyone who has used it? Would it be my best option given that the only reason Im considering an aftermarket Reg because of the new rail. I've done heaps of searching but have only found people going all out with new rail and FPR

huge thread bump but.... went to jaycar today and the closest one they said they had has 153k100 on the top, it doest look like the ones posted above, will it work or should i just buy a pack of 50 from ebay of the correct one? EDIT or is this the one i need? http://www.jaycar.com.au/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Greencaps/0-015uF-15nF-Greencap-Metallised-Polyester-Capacitor/p/RG5075 does it matter that it says 100v?

I had that issue about 2 years ago, I thought I posted here but I'll chime in Now I took it to a mechanic and he said he'd seen it heaps, he said he would use a chisel and then collapse it like the other person above has said, then he had an exhaust place make a piece and roll a lip in it I didn't want to have half a go and do something wrong and then have to tow it So let him do it for me

Sound is definitely from the the engine bay, Once the sound starts if I back off sounds gone, if I use more throttle it continues, also there's a fair chunk of shaft play, does yours? Also if the turbo starts getting side to side shaft play and files away at the compressor side I don't think the intercooler is going to stop that. Thanks for your input I'm not rushing to get it going again, I just think regardless it's something I had been planning to do this year, early next anyway and I never felt comfortable hearing the sound, so if I left it I wouldn't be going near it,anyway

Yeah I've been considering hypergear for a while now. Have been looking at the 43ss2. But I'm gonna talk with my tuner about a few things. Tossing up with keeping the power fc and buy an ebc, and z32 or upgrade to a haltech while I'm at it, Also working out what injectors to go with

well i talked to a mechanic and from what i described he said do not drive it anymore.... so its now parked in my garage till i can figure out what turbo and other parts im gonna need to get it going again... doing lots of reading on turbo options atm hopefully its just the turbo and engine is still ok

Hi so mods are: R33 GTST Pod Filter JJR Return Flow FMIC JJR Front dump High flow cat Cat Back Power FC 9-10 PSI Problem, a few months ago i started to notice, randomly, after usual warm up in the morning and driving to work just going into positive pressure(light throttle) there would be a whine, back off and do it again and it would whine again. Then back off and go again and it would be fine, no weird sound. When upto op temp I would boost like normal and everything was fine. It then stopped doing it in the mornings. More recently(for a month i guess) its now doing it anytime I'm hitting boost above 4-5psi. But still hits boost. I have a feeling its too loud to be some sort of boost leak... but still... I looked for leaks, loose clamps and it seemed fine, but where the throttle body meets the intake plenum there was what I thought was a fair bit of black stuff(carbon?) cleaned it off, drove it for a while, still hitting boost, but very rarely and it was back, cleaned it again and for this past week or two havent seen anything, BUT I havent been boosting, or only a touch of boost. I sprayed it with carby cleaner at idle but nothing changed, I might change the gasket anyway just incase. Before noticing the throttle body though, I did check for shaft play, taking off the intake pipe. It has little, to none side to side, up and down. BUT it has 3+mm In and Out(back to front of car) no oil, but if I tried to spin it. it wouldnt rotate much, possibly a quarter turn...(stock turbo) So I am about to go see a mechanic and have a chat. But after a bit of googling today im thinking the turbo isnt getting oil and its about to blow. Also at idle I cant see any smoke from the exhaust other than what I feel is normal when cold started in the morning

^ha ha yeah my brother sent me the link to those last week they're pretty funny...

anyone else see the change in engineer to driver conversations on warm up lap? no info on start procedure allowed after car leaves pits... more shit starters to occur?

yeah thats what i read too and it confused me too... i guess fuel flow in the pits stops will determine if its worth an extra second or two will be gained by being lighter through out the race... it also adds more risk in the pit stops though... Also yeah the DRS things a bit stupid, Kers worked a bit better because both had the option to use/save it... But yeah nothing beats the aero of the mid 2000's, such beautiful cars